Are You Happy with Your EVO Bolt-On Coil Over Springs?

Are you happy with the spring rates that came on your EVO Bolt-On Coil Overs?

  • Yes, I am competely satified with the spring rates I got out of the box.

    Votes: 20 33.9%

  • No. I wish they came with a softer spring rate

    Votes: 5 8.5%

  • No. I wish they came with a heavier spring rate

    Votes: 34 57.6%
  • Total voters
    59
aermotor said:
Finally got mine delivered and installed yesterday. I have a 4 door and carry more weight so I went with 250/300 springs on all 4 corners. I have a Zeon 10 steel line up front and cary roughly 350lbs+ in the back as my DD. I have 1.25" preload in the front and about .5" preload in the back.

I also have the "coilover clunk" BAD in the rear so I am going to try the rubber mat fix. Sort of disappointing this is even a thing, but I believe it might be just the 2012+ as my friend in his 2007 has never had it. Definitely odd... The coils sure are noisy right out of the box! I think/hope they will quiet down over time as they settle in.

Initial impressions are that it's awesome! I was running 4" EVO plush coils and King 2.5 adjustable shocks, and was worried the ride would suffer, but honestly, this ride feels better to me. It feels more like stock, if that makes sense. Softer over normal bumps and roads, but still firm when it needs to be. I should note that I also got the compression adjusters on all 4 coilovers as well and I'm currently running them at 10 clicks from the bottom, so on the softer side. Though I think I will bump them up to 13 right in the middle.

I imagine my setting will change with time as I get used to how it feels. If I can fix the clunk in the rear and the coil noise will quiet down, these will be a worth while upgrade. Not to mention the travel is amazing.

There is no way I would be happy with these and the stock rates. That's why I ordered them specific rather than spending $300-$700 on 'aftermarket' springs which seems not wise to me to spend that much on top of how much these cost.
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wayoflife said:
When the coils aren't aligned, they tend to bow more and that can cause the the winds of the coils to catch on the timing rings.
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I thought I saw not too long ago there was a new isolation ring between coils now to prevent the clicking/clunk and the noise? King came out with a different compound and design or something like that?
 
JAGS said:
I thought I saw not too long ago there was a new isolation ring between coils now to prevent the clicking/clunk and the noise? King came out with a different compound and design or something like that?
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Pretty sure the clunk is coming from the bracket hitting the body tub, it is not the springs making that specific noise.
 
aermotor said:
Pretty sure the clunk is coming from the bracket hitting the body tub, it is not the springs making that specific noise.
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Bummer. That would personally drive me crazy having a constant noise. In fact, I have the 2.5s largely because of the issues the COs had with road noise back in the day.

Once you get it dialed in, you should post up the fix. Each jeep is a little different, needing various tweaks.
 
aermotor said:
Pretty sure the clunk is coming from the bracket hitting the body tub, it is not the springs making that specific noise.
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This may be the case. Rather than the "rubber mod" have you considered installing the body mounts located above the rear shocks that were deleted in 2012+ models? Your tub and frame are drilled for them.
 
piginajeep said:
I've never heard of this issue. It's not normal. At least it wasn't when I worked there.
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Yea I don't really know, I've seen more than a few people have it, and Mel is supposedly the one who recommended the rubber fix. I will ORE tomorrow and ask.

doubletapdaddy said:
This may be the case. Rather than the "rubber mod" have you considered installing the body mounts located above the rear shocks that were deleted in 2012+ models? Your tub and frame are drilled for them.
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I'll compare with my buddies 2007 and check that out, thanks!
 
I compared again today and his 2007 has about 1/2" clearance before the tub which is plenty, where my drivers side is touching (sandwiched) between the plastic filler bracket and the tub and my passengers side is maybe 1/16" clearance or less. I will try and cut off the extra piece of the filler bracket to prevent contact.

I'm also thinking if I can add a small 1/4" body spacer or something to the rear to help, not sure. Will report back when I get it solved.
 
aermotor said:
I compared again today and his 2007 has about 1/2" clearance before the tub which is plenty, where my drivers side is touching (sandwiched) between the plastic filler bracket and the tub and my passengers side is maybe 1/16" clearance or less. I will try and cut off the extra piece of the filler bracket to prevent contact.

I'm also thinking if I can add a small 1/4" body spacer or something to the rear to help, not sure. Will report back when I get it solved.
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Thanks for the info, my orange 2012 was the first one to get a production coilover kit but it was also very early 2012 so maybe that's why I didn't have issues [emoji848]


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ORE recently installed the bolt on kit on my 2017 and I too have a clunking sound coming from the rear coilovers. At this point I am considering mounting a GoPro in the rear wheel well to monitor the clearance between the upper coilover mount and the body or I may take some of my kids playdo roll it into a ball and stick it on top of the coilover mount to see if it gets squished. With that said I do not find it overly obnoxious as coilovers in general create sounds.
 
The 2007 era JKs have additional body mounts right above the OEM shock mounts (where the new brackets go) which keep the body off the frame just a bit more than the 2012+ do. Because 2012+ are missing that additional body spacer, it could possibly be making the far rear body spacers take more of the load and flatten out a bit which causes the contact. Or simply, the lack of the extra spacer allows the body to sit that much closer to the frame above the brackets as it is unsupported.

I will take some comparison photos and post them up for reference, but it appears that may be the cause as it allows the body to sit on or nearly on top of the now taller brackets, transferring the compression forces up and into the body tub creating the clunk.

I do not want to add the rubber mat and isolate it, I want to get my body off the frame and bracket entirely, so I will work out a solution.
 
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Guess I'm in the minority and wish they came with softer rates. I keep my JKU empty, and normal road bumps aren't soaked up as I'd like. More aggressive bumps though, feel much better than stock. The jeep does feel better with passengers in it. Any recommendations on some spring rates?
 
I'll try and snap some better pics tonight. I have about 3/8" forward rake measured from the rubi rails. ~3.5" lift at the front measured from the coil perches.

Also, what is the coilover "clunk"? I think I may have it, coming out of driveways I hear a clunk at the rear that sounds like I'm hitting bumpstops.

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Your front timing rings are too high, per ORE they should be about 3/4" above the slider (although mine won't even go that low as I run out of threads). Your rear looks pretty good.

Not sure what you are feeling with your ride, but I don't think I would go with softer spring rates. I am running heavy rates and it soaks up road bumps better than my plush ride and King 2.5s.

There is a difference between hitting bumpstops and the clunk. Look at your rear upper supporting brackets and see if they are touching your body tub.
 
/\/\/\ that's what I was thinking too.... I had to put some flat rubber between the bracket and the body. Also your rear springs will break in and it will start to say... Just turn your top ring down to get more lift. I ended up having to go to 250/300 springs because I couldn't stay off of the bump stops. Now it's a lot better.

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I'm running 250/300 on all four corners and like it so far. It does provide a ton of lift without any preload however, so I will want to watch how high I get. it's too bad the design is different than the 2007.
 
Looks like the ring needs to come down in my fronts to stop coilbind. But, won't that also cause the stiffer spring rate to kick in faster?
 
I have a friend with a 2 door. She had the bolt coilovers installed. I took it out for a ride off road and it beat the crap out of us. The rear are so stiff it's terrible. We don't know much about these coilovers. Meaning, adjustability. I wouldn't know where to start. Any tips?


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