Your coil is supposed to hit the timing ring, that's what they're for, they allow your secondary spring to engage. Or, by "smacking", do you mean the coil is "catching" the timing ring and making a sound?
Are You Happy with Your EVO Bolt-On Coil Over Springs?
- Thread starter wayoflife
- Start date
Your coil is supposed to hit the timing ring, that's what they're for, they allow your secondary spring to engage. Or, by "smacking", do you mean the coil is "catching" the timing ring and making a sound?
Try rotating the coils so that where one ends, the other begins. This should help prevent bowing and that'll help prevent catching on the timing rings. Granted, depending on how hard you play, the springs can/will move around and you may need to do this again in the future. Ultimately, we're talking about coil overs. They work great but then do need attention.
cozdude
Guy with a Red 2-Door
Speaking of this thread I just adjusted my rear coilovers. Was running at 1" of preload and while it still road good knuckles looked and felt ass high. Just lowered the rear to .50" of preload to match the front. Being that the rear is so light I figured it was a good compromise. If needed I can always add more preload back in.
As for timing rings they are sitting 1.5" above the slider
As for timing rings they are sitting 1.5" above the slider
Perfect...thanks for the tip...Ill report back.
aTX427
New member
Hey guys, I have a couple tweaks I want to make to my system, but don't know where to start.
a. Lower the Jeep by an inch front and rear
b. Potentially soften the rear when crawling and I'll explain why further down.
As far as ride height is concerned, I have 5" of uptravel in the front and 5.5" in the rear. I'm running factory jounce bumps with the Evo kit supplied bump stop extensions. The front preload has 1.25" on the adjusters and the rear has about 4 or 5 turns providing about 1/2" of rake in the rear.
Here is where it gets tricky. When I crawl, the front is perfect meaning I cannot even feel the axle articulating under me. There is next to zero body shift and it just works. If I roll over a rock in the rear, it is very aparent meaning I can feel the tire coming up and it raises that corner of the Jeep.
In conclusion, I want to lower everything by an inch without changing how good the front works and make the rear feel like the front.
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a. Lower the Jeep by an inch front and rear
b. Potentially soften the rear when crawling and I'll explain why further down.
As far as ride height is concerned, I have 5" of uptravel in the front and 5.5" in the rear. I'm running factory jounce bumps with the Evo kit supplied bump stop extensions. The front preload has 1.25" on the adjusters and the rear has about 4 or 5 turns providing about 1/2" of rake in the rear.
Here is where it gets tricky. When I crawl, the front is perfect meaning I cannot even feel the axle articulating under me. There is next to zero body shift and it just works. If I roll over a rock in the rear, it is very aparent meaning I can feel the tire coming up and it raises that corner of the Jeep.
In conclusion, I want to lower everything by an inch without changing how good the front works and make the rear feel like the front.
Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
Sorry, a bit confused here. "1/2 of rake in the rear" as in, you're sitting ass low and nose high?
You don't feel your front because you are running the front end disconnected. You feel the rear end because it is not. This is normal and something that you want. If you're running a Currie Antirock in the rear, replace it for a soft factory sway bar and it'll help reduce what you're feeling. There are 2 factory sway bars so you need to make sure you get the softer one.
aTX427
New member
That makes sense on the sway bar. As far as the rake, I am 1/2" higher in the rear and have the factory sway bar. I am not sure if the 2 door sway is the same part or not, but do you think a lighter sway bar or none at all would help or hurt in the rocks? How about the ride height? Also, I am working to remove as much weight off the vehicle as possible. Aluminum 1/4 pounder front, synthetic rope on the winch, cut factory fender flares, rear bumper delete. lightweight wheels, etc. I am planning on upgrading to PR60/60's and 40" tires in the near future, but may pull the rear seat and tailgate then strap my spare inside the cab when I crawl to shift weight in between the axles.
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Okay, a rake is something you want and really, 1/2" isn't even much of one. 2-door sway bars are the same but again, there are 2 different sway bars you can get from the factory, one of which is supposed to be heavier duty. Just because you don't like what you're feeling on the rocks does NOT mean you're not getting good flex. You WANT a rear sway bar connected as it will give you better stability especially on off camber situations. As far as ride height goes, I guess I'd have to ask why you set up your coil overs with as much preload as you had to begin with.
aTX427
New member
The rear only has four turns of preload and I read in another thread that some is required. I adjusted the front to match. I suppose I can back the rear all the way out and see where I land, but is that advisable and should I even bother? I hate to mess with what works and with the exception of washboarded roads, I was very pleased with the setup.
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The amount of preload you have will effect the quality of your ride. Most of the people I know that have bolt on coil overs have coils that are so soft that they need to run a ton of preload. The fact that you don't tells me that you might be running coils that are too firm for your taste. On washboard roads, you need to be driving a LOT faster. :yup:
Personally, I would wait. Bigger heavier axles will behave differently and of course, so will tires with more sidewalls.
I think this got most of the catching...a little remains...but a heck of a lot better.
aermotor
Member
Finally got mine delivered and installed yesterday. I have a 4 door and carry more weight so I went with 250/300 springs on all 4 corners. I have a Zeon 10 steel line up front and cary roughly 350lbs+ in the back as my DD. I have 1.25" preload in the front and about .5" preload in the back.
I also have the "coilover clunk" BAD in the rear so I am going to try the rubber mat fix. Sort of disappointing this is even a thing, but I believe it might be just the 2012+ as my friend in his 2007 has never had it. Definitely odd... The coils sure are noisy right out of the box! I think/hope they will quiet down over time as they settle in.
Initial impressions are that it's awesome! I was running 4" EVO plush coils and King 2.5 adjustable shocks, and was worried the ride would suffer, but honestly, this ride feels better to me. It feels more like stock, if that makes sense. Softer over normal bumps and roads, but still firm when it needs to be. I should note that I also got the compression adjusters on all 4 coilovers as well and I'm currently running them at 10 clicks from the bottom, so on the softer side. Though I think I will bump them up to 13 right in the middle.
I imagine my setting will change with time as I get used to how it feels. If I can fix the clunk in the rear and the coil noise will quiet down, these will be a worth while upgrade. Not to mention the travel is amazing.
There is no way I would be happy with these and the stock rates. That's why I ordered them specific rather than spending $300-$700 on 'aftermarket' springs which seems not wise to me to spend that much on top of how much these cost.
I also have the "coilover clunk" BAD in the rear so I am going to try the rubber mat fix. Sort of disappointing this is even a thing, but I believe it might be just the 2012+ as my friend in his 2007 has never had it. Definitely odd... The coils sure are noisy right out of the box! I think/hope they will quiet down over time as they settle in.
Initial impressions are that it's awesome! I was running 4" EVO plush coils and King 2.5 adjustable shocks, and was worried the ride would suffer, but honestly, this ride feels better to me. It feels more like stock, if that makes sense. Softer over normal bumps and roads, but still firm when it needs to be. I should note that I also got the compression adjusters on all 4 coilovers as well and I'm currently running them at 10 clicks from the bottom, so on the softer side. Though I think I will bump them up to 13 right in the middle.
I imagine my setting will change with time as I get used to how it feels. If I can fix the clunk in the rear and the coil noise will quiet down, these will be a worth while upgrade. Not to mention the travel is amazing.
There is no way I would be happy with these and the stock rates. That's why I ordered them specific rather than spending $300-$700 on 'aftermarket' springs which seems not wise to me to spend that much on top of how much these cost.
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The "clunk" is annoying for sure but other than that, your coils shouldn't be too noisy especially if you make sure to align them so that where one ends, the other begins. Granted, depending on how you play, it most likely won't stay that way but an occasional adjustment here and there will help.
aermotor
Member
My timing rings are set. About 2" in the front and 1" in the rear (same as my buddies setup directly from ORE)
Yea, I mean it's not terrible, but it's not quiet like normal coils. Hopefully the rubber hack will help, even a little bit. I will make sure to check the spring alignment as well, thanks! Curious, if they are not aligned, what causes them to make more noise?
When the coils aren't aligned, they tend to bow more and that can cause the the winds of the coils to catch on the timing rings.