Anyone run Currie RockJock?

wayoflife said:
Over the last 10 years, I've seen the breaks, on RockJock 60's and on guys who were all decked out in EVO gear. The problem I've seen is that they just allowed for too much deflection in the differential housing and that was causing ring and pinion breaks and issues with their shafts. Unfortunately, Currie would no longer warranty these breaks stating that they were played on too hard and for me personally, that's a load of crap. Sure, RockJocks are cheaper but if you were to build up something like a front RockJock 60 to the same specs as what comes standard on a ProRock 60, they end up costing the same. Of course, that's just what I have seen and really, what would I know.

As I always like to say, we all have our own idea of "run them hard" really is and how "often" is often. Clearly, you're the kind of badass that believes you need to replace your perfectly fine factory bolts with a set of Grade 8's. Me, I'm just a mall crawler and so you can take that for what it's worth.



LOL!! You'll forgive me but the only toss up is for guys like you who rely on what you've read on internet forums. Me, I go off of what I have personally seen and have experienced over the years. But of course, that's just me. :yup:
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That's the info I have been looking for, not really what people hear or say but what has been seen. Currie was not even a choice for me until I had a buddy who has run Currie in his classic cars asked why I would not look into their product.
 
I recently had a similar dilemma about what front axle to replace my Dana 30 with. The forums helped out a bunch but what was the kicker for me was the fact that I didn't save much $ buying a lesser product(China). When adding everything up I found it worth the extra couple hundred for piece of mind so I went with the prorock 44. I am a little puzzled why they don't have control arm skids or a drain plug, but not a huge deal.
 
DGP said:
I recently had a similar dilemma about what front axle to replace my Dana 30 with. The forums helped out a bunch but what was the kicker for me was the fact that I didn't save much $ buying a lesser product(China). When adding everything up I found it worth the extra couple hundred for piece of mind so I went with the prorock 44. I am a little puzzled why they don't have control arm skids or a drain plug, but not a huge deal.
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Not everyone feels the need for control arm skids with beefier brackets. Certainly, I don't run any on my ProRocks. As far as drain plugs go, the ProRock housing is made for strength and ultra high clearance. I would imagine that adding a drain would compromise both. That being said, even when I was still running a factory axle, I still pulled the cover to service my diffs. That way, I could do a thorough cleaning and inspect the gears. Of course, that's just me.
 
wayoflife said:
Not everyone feels the need for control arm skids with beefier brackets. Certainly, I don't run any on my ProRocks. As far as drain plugs go, the ProRock housing is made for strength and ultra high clearance. I would imagine that adding a drain would compromise both. That being said, even when I was still running a factory axle, I still pulled the cover to service my diffs. That way, I could do a thorough cleaning and inspect the gears. Of course, that's just me.
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Well I get the idea about pulling the cover to change the fluid so you can inspect the gears, but I can be a procrastinator so now I'm most likely not going to change my fluid as often. As far as the skids go it's an easy fix for me to weld some skids on. I was thinking about not running any but I've already bent one slightly. Like I said "no big deal". I'd rather deal with the little issues than deal with a cracked housing.
 
Without a drain plug wouldn't there still be some gear oil left inside the housing even after you remove the diff cover? Would you have to use something like a shop-vac to get the excess out?
 
whispike said:
Without a drain plug wouldn't there still be some gear oil left inside the housing even after you remove the diff cover? Would you have to use something like a shop-vac to get the excess out?
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Only if you have more caster set than the 6° that already comes on the axle.
 
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