37's on a Dana 30?? Also, EVO vs Genright Rear carrier

Well that sucks. I was thinking of that as an option down the road.

eh, it does in a way but really, the Rubicon 44 already comes with 32 splines and if you're really feeling the need for more, you really should be looking at something like a Dynatrac Trail 60 or better.
 
Please don't take this the wrong way but, the wheeling back east isn't the same thing as the kind of wheeling you see out in the west. Likewise, everyone has a different idea of what hard or easy really is. To this day, I have yet to lead a single person who wasn't from the west, through something like the Rubicon or take them out in Johnson Valley and have them say, "oh, this is just like back home." Of course, more than anything, speed will break more stuff on a Jeep than will any hardcore rock obstacle and out west, there are literally hundreds if not thousands of miles of desert trails and washes that you can jam through. On the 2013 JKX, this is where most of the breaks we saw occurred or originated from.



The rear Dana 44 on a JK is a "true" 44 with 3" tubes and it's actually a pretty tough axle. If you have a Sahara or Sport, it's even better being that it comes with equal length shafts and can be upgraded to run 35-spline shaft and ARB. For a time, I used to run one built up like that on Moby and it did pretty good until I tried running 5.38's with 40's on it.

I hear ya Eddie! We have been discussing this for years! Have you ever seen a JK with a built D30 take on a trail like the Rubicon? What would break first?

What axles would you recommend for the rear D44?
 
eh, it does in a way but really, the Rubicon 44 already comes with 32 splines and if you're really feeling the need for more, you really should be looking at something like a Dynatrac Trail 60 or better.

Would you agree or disagree with this statement?

A built front D30 is stronger than a gusseted Rubi front D44.
 
I hear ya Eddie! We have been discussing this for years! Have you ever seen a JK with a built D30 take on a trail like the Rubicon? What would break first?

Yup, I have seen built Dana 30's take on the Rubicon and have seen them break there too. The first to go is always the shafts.

Would you agree or disagree with this statement?

A built front D30 is stronger than a gusseted Rubi front D44.

Disagree. I honestly don't understand why there is so much hype about building up factory axle housings. In the 7+ years that I have been wheeling JK's, I have only seen 3 axle housings break and have heard of only about a dozen others. All were on early 2007 JK's and all but one were actually on Rubicon 44's. To be clear, there are over 1,000,000 JK's out there and if this were really a problem, you would be hearing a lot more of these breaks. Having said all that, will an un-built factory Dana 30 bend? You bet but no less than a Rubicon 44 which is only a 44 due to its differential and axle shafts. The tubes and end forgings are exactly the same as a Dana 30. Having said that, a bent axle tube WILL NOT leave you high and dry - a broken axle shaft or worse, a blown ring and pinion WILL. No matter how you slice or dice it, a Rubicon 44 front axle will have a BIGGER AND STRONG ring and pinion and will also have BIGGER AND STRONGER axle shafts. There's just no two ways about it and the most bullet proof built up Dana 30 housing can never make up for the shortcomings of it's actual drive components.

What axles would you recommend for the rear D44?

If you're talking about which factory 44 would I recommend, I'd have to say one that comes on a Sport/X/Sahara. It is a true Dana 44 with 3" tubes, equal length shafts, upgradeable to 35-splines and one that I have personally found to be surprisingly tough. If you are referring to axle shafts, I actually have found the factory shafts to be just as tough. However, like any semi-float shaft, the flange can and will bend if you play hard enough and when that happens, it's cheaper to replace them with a set of aftermarket chromoly shafts. I haven't seen one brand be better than another and wouldn't waste your money on anything too expensive there. ALL semi-float shafts have the same limitations and they will ALL bend at the flange if you play hard enough.
 
Yup, I have seen built Dana 30's take on the Rubicon and have seen them break there too. The first to go is always the shafts.



Disagree. I honestly don't understand why there is so much hype about building up factory axle housings. In the 7+ years that I have been wheeling JK's, I have only seen 3 axle housings break and have heard of only about a dozen others. All were on early 2007 JK's and all but one were actually on Rubicon 44's. To be clear, there are over 1,000,000 JK's out there and if this were really a problem, you would be hearing a lot more of these breaks. Having said all that, will an un-built factory Dana 30 bend? You bet but no less than a Rubicon 44 which is only a 44 due to its differential and axle shafts. The tubes and end forgings are exactly the same as a Dana 30. Having said that, a bent axle tube WILL NOT leave you high and dry - a broken axle shaft or worse, a blown ring and pinion WILL. No matter how you slice or dice it, a Rubicon 44 front axle will have a BIGGER AND STRONG ring and pinion and will also have BIGGER AND STRONGER axle shafts. There's just no two ways about it and the most bullet proof built up Dana 30 housing can never make up for the shortcomings of it's actual drive components.



If you're talking about which factory 44 would I recommend, I'd have to say one that comes on a Sport/X/Sahara. It is a true Dana 44 with 3" tubes, equal length shafts, upgradeable to 35-splines and one that I have personally found to be surprisingly tough. If you are referring to axle shafts, I actually have found the factory shafts to be just as tough. However, like any semi-float shaft, the flange can and will bend if you play hard enough and when that happens, it's cheaper to replace them with a set of aftermarket chromoly shafts. I haven't seen one brand be better than another and wouldn't waste your money on anything too expensive there. ALL semi-float shafts have the same limitations and they will ALL bend at the flange if you play hard enough.

Thanks Eddie! That's why I'm here....to learn!
Appreciate the time!
 
All great info! appreciated. and StrizzyChris...head not spinning anymore! i appreciate the advice. gonna talk to my shop about it all
 
Hey guys, great info. I currently have a 2010 JKUR and am running 35" tires and trying to figure out what I need to do if and when I upgrade to 37" tires concerning axles. Would it be ok just to upgrade to a prorock44 with elocker and continue using stock rear or would I need to upgrade to prorock44 with arb lockers and trail 60 in the rear. I'm am under the impression that the prorock elocker pumpkin is not compatible with an arb locker.

Currently light wheeling but just trying to plan for the future.
 
All great info! appreciated. and StrizzyChris...head not spinning anymore! i appreciate the advice. gonna talk to my shop about it all

Strizzy gives great information and spells things out very well.


Sent from my phone?
 
I ran 37s on my 30 for about 6 months until i could afford a Prorock. The only thing I built on the 30 was RCV shafts and a diff cover. Also had the track bar bracket reinforced. It held up fine and i wheeled on it every weekend on some narly trails here. Mind you, i was as gentle as i could be and bypassed the real major obstacles. The old 30 is sitting in my shed now incase someone here blows theirs. I dont know why i waited so long in getting a prorock. Id steer clear of elockers. Nearly every rig i see here running 37 plus tires has killed their elocker. But if you are not going to wheel that hard, save your coin and build the 30 to be honest with ya.

Cant go wrong with either carrier. I choose EVO because of the armor it mounts too. Even though my wife bent the crap out of it smashing into a tree i love it. Solid as hell. Few guys i know that gave the genright love em.
 
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