37's on a Dana 30?? Also, EVO vs Genright Rear carrier
- Thread starter JKFlyer
- Start date
StrizzyChris
New member
x2! BuddyHydro has a tricked out beast in his Sahara Tan JKUR but when he was in his building stages he had the EVO carrier and 35's. It looked very small in that beefy carrier. It wasn't "ugly" or look bad per se, but it did make the 35's look like 32's back there
I think a combo of what eddie said, the huge bracket and then the bare hinges on the opposite side, and the extreme upward angle of the lateral tubes. The JK is a bulky squared up box with wheels. If you just add one element that has flashy or abnormal lines, then it looks out of place. I think, and am waiting to see, that they are looking for a complimentary product to their sexy flashy and functional add-ons. When you combine all of that, maybe the carrier wont look as weird to me.
JKFlyer
New member
I spoke with Rick at Poison Spyder last night as i wanted to know if Evo carrier will work with PS skins (answer is not really) and asked him about carrier. He said they are trying to design something a bit different since there are a lot of carriers out there already. He said there will still be some modifications but that the pics earlier (on green jeep) are general design. Probably not ready till after the holidays.
Noted on EVO with 35's. Will just have to go 37! assuming so, is the ride any more bumpy or less comfortable? will the jeep drive a whole lot different vs with my 35's? Only real thing i notice with 35's is if i have to brake fast, it tends to want to swerve out of the lane a bit.
StrizzyChris
New member
well quite a few factors influence the handling and feel of running 37s. First is the lift you install that is required to accommodate that large of a tire. A 4.5" procomp vs coilovers are worlds apart. Second is that you will need to address your steering geometry with a raised track bar and drag link flip. Third is if you plan on adding hydro assist steering. While crawling or at a stop this will make a huge difference on the stress placed on your steering box. At driving speed, it won't be as needed/important. Fourth would be long arms vs short arms. Long arms will help in the handling of the jeep on the road at speed and mitigate axle swipe when flexing while wheeling. Lastly the sidewall of the tire will effect more of the ride "comfort" than the size itself. A heavy side walled toyo will not give as much as a softer sidewall like a duratrac when you hit a groove in the road. Having said that, the duratrac won't hold up as well with a sharp rock/stump/etc rubbing against the side wall either. I know this didn't give you an actual yes or no answer but hope it at least helped a little.
10frank9
Web Wheeler
Couldn't have said it any better Strizz.
I will add that there was not a noticeable ride difference when I went from 35's to 37's. I did however notice a decreased ability to brake. Something I have to live with unless I go with big brakes or 60's.
JKFlyer
New member
OH CRAP! now my head is spinning:doh: It really is opening up a can of worms going from 35's to 37's!! i thought prorock with all the goodies was enough but there really is so much more. + i only have 2.5 inch lift so im really going to need to do a lot more it seems....
that brings me back to the Evo carrier...seems the consensus is that a 35 will look too small even though it seemed good in the thread i posted earlier. :thinking: that is the one i really like. :icon_crazy:
10frank9
Web Wheeler
Not really I'm running 37's on my rubi axles, I cleared them just fine with 3" coils and flat fenders.
Don't let the tire size choose your carrier for you. If you want to go with the EVO go for it. It's one of my favorites and is built strong as hell! I went with the LõD for ease of use (linked) and modular accessory options. Otherwise I would have gone EVO it truly is badass IMHO.
CaliCrusher
New member
Did you swap out your drive shafts.
10frank9
Web Wheeler
Yes running a JE Reel 1350 front still stock rear shaft.
JKFlyer
New member
I was gonna swap my front drive shaft as Eddie said I should. Also I have flat fenders and 2.5 lift. Already have old man emu steering stabilizer and jks adjustable track bar. Will I be fine just doing prorock 44 and going to 37's?
Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using WAYALIFE mobile app
Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using WAYALIFE mobile app
JKFlyer
New member
10frank9
Web Wheeler
You'll want 3-3.5" at least to comfortably wheel 37's. Just my opinion. And you'll be golden with the PR44.
StrizzyChris
New member
Don't let my post scare you away from anything! It was meant more for perspective. You'll see on many forums, or in person, someone blaming one component for a crappy ride or handling (i.e. a huge lift) that maybe great but no supporting components to optimise it. And again the EVO carrier will look great, it'll just not be filled with a 35" tire. Once I install my coilovers that are collecting dust, I'll be aiming for 3.75" +/- of lift(since my fenders are trimmed). Like Frank mentioned, you can get away with less but it does come at the expense of up travel. You have to balance the low center of gravity vs up travel when choosing the right sized lift for you and your uses.
1BAMFR
New member
I know I may sound like a broken record when I chime in on all these D30 threads but I truly believe the D30 if built properly is a durable front axle to use offroading.
I run a locked D30 on 37's and alot of guys on here can vouch that I don't run the bunny trails when we all go out.
I am more.concerned with my rear D44 being stock with a locker.
It all boils down to how deep your pockets are...
I run a locked D30 on 37's and alot of guys on here can vouch that I don't run the bunny trails when we all go out.
I am more.concerned with my rear D44 being stock with a locker.
It all boils down to how deep your pockets are...
Moochie
Active Member
I have about 100,000 miles on my stock rear Dana 44. I just recently upgraded to chromoly shafts because I bent a wheel flange. It had a locker failure early in it life ( failed to unlock) which was replaced under warranty. When my tubes bend I will replace it with a Trail 60 since I will never go to 40's.
bl17z90
New member
What are the big differences between a pro rock and a trail? I know the housing is shaped different but thats not all is it?
Sent from my phone?
Please don't take this the wrong way but, the wheeling back east isn't the same thing as the kind of wheeling you see out in the west. Likewise, everyone has a different idea of what hard or easy really is. To this day, I have yet to lead a single person who wasn't from the west, through something like the Rubicon or take them out in Johnson Valley and have them say, "oh, this is just like back home." Of course, more than anything, speed will break more stuff on a Jeep than will any hardcore rock obstacle and out west, there are literally hundreds if not thousands of miles of desert trails and washes that you can jam through. On the 2013 JKX, this is where most of the breaks we saw occurred or originated from.
The rear Dana 44 on a JK is a "true" 44 with 3" tubes and it's actually a pretty tough axle. If you have a Sahara or Sport, it's even better being that it comes with equal length shafts and can be upgraded to run 35-spline shaft and ARB. For a time, I used to run one built up like that on Moby and it did pretty good until I tried running 5.38's with 40's on it.
The housing on a ProRock is profiled and built stronger. Also, a ProRock will have stronger thicker axle tubes and can be had in a full-float configuration.
biggy
Member
So you can't run 35 spline shafts with an arb in a rubi d44