37's on a D30

hoop said:
I'm in the learning phase of the Jeep addiction, but I'll chime in for what it's worth. I have a 2 door and running 37s on my front D30 (tires actually measure 36). I intended on getting a new front axle first but it didn't work out that way as I got the tires on a deal I could not pass on.

Having said that, I have not spent one dime on my D30 and won't. I have not taken it out on anything other than small trails as I feel very confident the axle will not last with the heavier tires (and they are heavy). And for me, after reading many WOL threads, I soon realized it's not just the front axle that has to be addressed when going to 37s. I have to deal with an appropriate lift, bumpstops, pinch seams, brake lines, drive shaft and gears to make my rig truly functional in order to maximize the 37s for the type of wheeling I would like to do.

So in my case, just throwing on 37s without taking care of the other issues, more than likely, made my rig less functional. But I was warned before I did it. I decided to build my rig around the tires I got. I like the 37s and will stay with them, it's just taking my money to get the build I want!

Bottom line, my 37s are holding up just fine driving it to the grocery store!

If I missed anything please chime in.
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And really, there's nothing wrong with anything that you did. Like you, I got impatient with my old 2009 JKUX and threw on a set of 37's before I had a chance to replace the Dana 30 on it. Like you, I just didn't waste any time or money on it but rather, ran it as is until I could afford a ProRock 44. The whole time I ran that setup, I knew full well that it could easily break.

Again, the only thing I find laughable is when guys come on here to say how they've added sleeves or a truss to their Dana 30 as if it really matters. They go on and on about how hard they wheel and how often and to that, all I can say is that everyone has a different idea of what "hard" or "all the time" really is. Maybe I just suck at wheeling but, I've been able to blow Dana 44's and even a semi-float ProRock 60.
 
K.D.C.H said:
Lots of great info here Eddie, thanks. I know I'll be wanting a PR60 rear but wasn't sure on the fronted I'd go 44 or 60. I know I'll be starting out with 35's because of my D30 but my goal is 37's however I would like to have the option for 40's just in case I ever feel the need them.

Looks like it's PR60's front and rear for me
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If you know for sure you will be running 40's in the future, I would just start saving up for a PR60 now. If it's a big maybe but you will for sure run 37's, I would just get a PR44. A PR44 will be strong enough for most people running 37's and you will also have the benefit of a lighter weight axle and better turning radius.
 
wayoflife said:
And really, there's nothing wrong with anything that you did. Like you, I got impatient with my old 2009 JKUX and threw on a set of 37's before I had a chance to replace the Dana 30 on it. Like you, I just didn't waste any time or money on it but rather, ran it as is until I could afford a ProRock 44. The whole time I ran that setup, I knew full well that it could easily break.

Again, the only thing I find laughable is when guys come on here to say how they've added sleeves or a truss to their Dana 30 as if it really matters. They go on and on about how hard they wheel and how often and to that, all I can say is that everyone has a different idea of what "hard" or "all the time" really is. Maybe I just suck at wheeling but, I've been able to blow Dana 44's and even a semi-float ProRock 60.
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Agreed! I've watched your videos. Pretty sure my D30 wouldn't last!
 
Not entirely. With a ProRock 44, you can also run a much stronger ARB locker and much stronger 35 spline axle shafts. Up to a 37" tire, the 44 ring and pinion should be sufficient for most people.

I can still be worth it to get a ProRock 44 first being that it will last and can still be sold at a later date with a higher resale value. Otherwise, I would just play with your Rubicon 44 as is until you can afford to upgrade.
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This might not be the right place for this question, but since it was brought up I'm going to ask. I was told it was better to get the 30 spline arb with a pr 44 because the axle shafts would be the same size as a 35 spline. The 35 spline is just tapered up at the splines. So you have to use the bigger axle seal to fit the tapered end and then a lot of them leak because the shaft is the same size as the 30. Just wanted to know if there is any truth to this.
 
Thank you Eddie for all the info. I'm just guna run the D30 till she is toast and upgrade. Thanks for everybody else's input as well, and I hoe this will be a useful thread for others as well. I think I'm going stay stay with 35s till I upgrade the axles though.
 
I never knew how small the d30 ring is until I shredded my front and saw a comparison between a d30 and d44 side by side. I knew then I would be upgrading.
 
wayoflife said:
Again, the only thing I find laughable is when guys come on here to say how they've added sleeves or a truss to their Dana 30 as if it really matters. They go on and on about how hard they wheel and how often and to that, all I can say is that everyone has a different idea of what "hard" or "all the time" really is. Maybe I just suck at wheeling but, I've been able to blow Dana 44's and even a semi-float ProRock 60.
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But this guy wheels hard with a D30 on 40s! Looks like he had to run over a curb to park where he did and everything! Well, at least it made it to the dealership to get fixed! LOL! :doh:

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As mentioned before, I have already had an axle shaft failure on 285s, I couldn't imagine running 37s on a D30 and expecting it to last. 37s first with the intention of replacing the axle when it fails is one thing, but those telling people to throw some useless truss on top and they can conquer king of the hammers is just silly.
 
I run 37s on a trussed d30 and am well aware its going to break in the near future. Just gonna wait it out and once it goes im going Pr44
 
I wouldn go with nothing more than an 35inch tire on a d30. And if you wheel hard i wouldn lock a d30 either. I have seen a lot of guys out on the trails that ran 35s and they pushed their jeeps and everything was fine. No breaks. Once they got 37s you could feel that something was going to happen and eventually in happened. Many many times. :doh:
 
OscarMike2.0 said:
I run 37s on a trussed d30 and am well aware its going to break in the near future. Just gonna wait it out and once it goes im going Pr44
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I certainly agree with WAYALIFE on this, there is nothing wrong with running your 37s on the D30 as long as you understand it could break, and are prepared to replace it if and when it does. You just never know how long it will last because there are so many variables (type of wheeleing, abuse, etc). Could last a very long time for you, or not. Lovig how your rig is looking by the way!
 
I just got rid of my D30 yesterday. It was sleeved and gussets. It felt like it was going break any minute with 37s. The bigger axle makes all the difference. Steering is more stable with the new bigger ball joints. When I hit bumps I no longer hope for the best. When we pulled the shafts out the splines were bent and ready to break at any minute. Take it from me I also thought I could get away with running 37s on a d30 but I was fooling myself. Oh and did I mention I had already grenades a ring gear in the 30.
 
Wheel hard brah

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