37's on a D30

[wayoflife]

Thanks for posting that up. It always makes me laugh the way guys on the internet go on and on about how they have their Dana 30 sleeved or trussed like it'd really make a difference when in fact, you're still left with small axle shafts and worse, a very small ring and pinion. If anything, this is what will break on you and what will leave you high and dry.

Just for visual reference, here's a shot I took a while back of a 60, 44 and a 30 ring and pinion. All the axle housing improvements one can make won't change the fact that a Dana 30 ring gear is only 7.125" whereas a 44 is 8.5" and a 60 is 9.75".

Size matters here especially when you're playing with "bigger tires" and actually playing hard. But hey, what do I know. :crazyeyes:

 

[olram30]

Thanks for posting that up. It always makes me laugh the way guys on the internet go on and on about how they have their Dana 30 sleeved or trussed like it'd really make a difference when in fact, you're still left with small axle shafts and worse, a very small ring and pinion. If anything, this is what will break on you and what will leave you high and dry.

Just for visual reference, here's a shot I took a while back of a 60, 44 and a 30 ring and pinion. All the axle housing improvements one can make won't change the fact that a Dana 30 ring gear is only 7.125" whereas a 44 is 8.5" and a 60 is 9.75".

Size matters here especially when you're playing with "bigger tires" and actually playing hard. But hey, what do I know. :crazyeyes:

i agree, size matters:yup: all those brackets, gussets, trusses and stuff on the outside doesn't beef up the tiny r&p where most failures occur.

 

[jnabird333]

I thought the JK "next gen" D44 R&P was 8.8" or something... Not that this is a big deal. Just curious if this is correct.

 

[CrazyLarry]

is there a difference in size between the r & p of a rubi 44 and a prorock 44? Just curious how the r & p of a prorock 44 would be stronger than a stock rubi

 

[jnabird333]

I was wrong on my 8.8" thing (I'm not sure how that got in my head) maybe I confused the front and rear ??? .... but this explains the "next gen" thing.

http://www.dynatrac.com/pdfs/New_Gen_D44_comparison_chart.pdf

 

[wayoflife]

is there a difference in size between the r & p of a rubi 44 and a prorock 44? Just curious how the r & p of a prorock 44 would be stronger than a stock rubi

Funny, I don't recall anyone ever saying that a ProRock 44 has a stronger ring and pinion than a factory 44. In fact, running your factory Rubicon internals is an option when buying a ProRock 44. BOTH are stronger than a Dana 30 as they both use a much larger ring and pinion.

 

[CrazyLarry]

Funny, I don't recall anyone ever saying that a ProRock 44 has a stronger ring and pinion than a factory 44. In fact, running your factory Rubicon internals is an option when buying a ProRock 44. BOTH are stronger than a Dana 30 as they both use a much larger ring and pinion.

I dont recall anyone saying that either which is why I was asking the question but thank you for answering my question. If and when I upgrade my axles the size and strength of the r & p over stock is a big factor. So if someone is running a rubi axle that wants to upgrade to a prorock they are essentially upgrading the housing strength, bracket strength and caster correction not the r & p do I have that right? Also if staying with a stock length prorock arent your balljoints and unit bearings still under the same amount of stress as a stock width axle? I guess im trying to decide which way to go in case the time comes to either upgrade to a prorock 44 or full width prorock 60 with a larger and stronger r & p

 

[Rmorin222]

This has been a great thread. I was almost going the route of throwing money at the 30 in my JK. Not anymore that's for sure. My question is, since I do want to get to a PR60 eventually is it worth is to make the stop at the PR44 or do I build a Rubi 44 in the interest on saving some pennies and still being able to wheel for the year?

 

[Slavens]

No BS- After reading these posts i orderd my PR44 yesterday with Drew at O.R.E ... Gotta say i am pretty pumped!

Thanks for the input guys!

 

[Canvas JK]

If you decide to go PR44 then the parts in and on the D44 will work. This is the route I will more than likely go. Just need to find the D44 off a Rubicon that is priced right and not the same as a PR44

R/
Will

 

[wayoflife]

If and when I upgrade my axles the size and strength of the r & p over stock is a big factor.

They only way you are going to increase the strength of your ring and pinion over stock is to run a larger ring and pinion. The only way to do that is to run a ProRock 60 or 80.

So if someone is running a rubi axle that wants to upgrade to a prorock they are essentially upgrading the housing strength, bracket strength and caster correction not the r & p do I have that right?

Not entirely. With a ProRock 44, you can also run a much stronger ARB locker and much stronger 35 spline axle shafts. Up to a 37" tire, the 44 ring and pinion should be sufficient for most people.

Also if staying with a stock length prorock arent your balljoints and unit bearings still under the same amount of stress as a stock width axle?

If you're running wheels with very little back spacing, yes. For this, I would highly recommend that you run a set of ProSteer ball joints as they will be the last set of ball joints you will ever need to get but, you will still wear out your unit bearings a bit sooner than if you were just running factory size wheels and tires. Not really that big of a deal though.

I guess im trying to decide which way to go in case the time comes to either upgrade to a prorock 44 or full width prorock 60 with a larger and stronger r & p

If you're planning to play really hard and/or planning to run 40's, yes, I would highly recommend that you get a 60 over a 44.

This has been a great thread. I was almost going the route of throwing money at the 30 in my JK. Not anymore that's for sure. My question is, since I do want to get to a PR60 eventually is it worth is to make the stop at the PR44 or do I build a Rubi 44 in the interest on saving some pennies and still being able to wheel for the year?

I can still be worth it to get a ProRock 44 first being that it will last and can still be sold at a later date with a higher resale value. Otherwise, I would just play with your Rubicon 44 as is until you can afford to upgrade.

 

[Slavens]

If you decide to go PR44 then the parts in and on the D44 will work. This is the route I will more than likely go. Just need to find the D44 off a Rubicon that is priced right and not the same as a PR44

R/
Will

i'll have a sleeved and guesseted housing for you =) ORE did the S&G

 

[BlackHawk08jk]

So my build will in time be setting on 40s that is my end goal on tire size. So would it be best to skip the pr44 and go to the 60 or would the pr44 be sufficient? (That's with hard wheeling goin to be done)

 

[wayoflife]

So my build will in time be setting on 40s that is my end goal on tire size. So would it be best to skip the pr44 and go to the 60 or would the pr44 be sufficient? (That's with hard wheeling goin to be done)

If it were me, yeah, I would probably just save up for the 60.

 

[BlackHawk08jk]

With the factory drive terrain on 40s what gears would you runs? (With front and rear pr60s)

 

[CrazyLarry]

They only way you are going to increase the strength of your ring and pinion over stock is to run a larger ring and pinion. The only way to do that is to run a ProRock 60 or 80.



Not entirely. With a ProRock 44, you can also run a much stronger ARB locker and much stronger 35 spline axle shafts. Up to a 37" tire, the 44 ring and pinion should be sufficient for most people.



If you're running wheels with very little back spacing, yes. For this, I would highly recommend that you run a set of ProSteer ball joints as they will be the last set of ball joints you will ever need to get but, you will still wear out your unit bearings a bit sooner than if you were just running factory size wheels and tires. Not really that big of a deal though.



If you're planning to play really hard and/or planning to run 40's, yes, I would highly recommend that you get a 60 over a 44.



I can still be worth it to get a ProRock 44 first being that it will last and can still be sold at a later date with a higher resale value. Otherwise, I would just play with your Rubicon 44 as is until you can afford to upgrade.

All great info thank you very much. I dont see myself running 40s anytime soon just sticking with 37s so the prorock 44 may be a better fit if my reinforced rubi axle takes a shit and like you said I could one could always sell that housing if going bigger in the future. Has anyonme ever had their r & p cyro treated for added strength or is that a bunch of bullshit. Op sorry for the hijack just felt this info was useful in your thread

 

[jnabird333]

If it were me, yeah, I would probably just save up for the 60.

I think I read where you commented on the D60 not turning as well as a D44. If this is wrong please correct me. If this is right, please elaborate on this a bit. I was considering 60s even though I plan to stay with 37s becasue I do not trailer to/from the trail and don't plan to anytime soon. Living in Ohio means I often travel pretty far for a good trail. This said, when I do wheel local the trails are very tight and I don't like the idea of any turning radius loss.

 

[wayoflife]

With the factory drive terrain on 40s what gears would you runs? (With front and rear pr60s)

5.38 is the ratio you want to be running with a set of 40" tires. It's what I run anyway and did even back when I was still running a 3.8L motor.

All great info thank you very much. I dont see myself running 40s anytime soon just sticking with 37s so the prorock 44 may be a better fit if my reinforced rubi axle takes a shit and like you said I could one could always sell that housing if going bigger in the future. Has anyonme ever had their r & p cyro treated for added strength or is that a bunch of bullshit. Op sorry for the hijack just felt this info was useful in your thread

Your factory Rubicon 44 will most likely hold up for a long time. The most that will happen is that your housing will still bend right where the axle tubes go into the diff. This is regardless if you have sleeves or a truss - I see it happen all the time but really, it's not that big of a deal or at least, not until it's bad enough to cause an axle seal leak. Really, the whole point of this discussion and this thread is to talk about Dana 30 strength when it comes to running 37's. Dana 30's have a much smaller ring and pinion and smaller axle shafts. The axle housings are otherwise the same thing as a factory 44.

I think I read where you commented on the D60 not turning as well as a D44. If this is wrong please correct me. If this is right, please elaborate on this a bit. I was considering 60s even though I plan to stay with 37s becasue I do not trailer to/from the trail and don't plan to anytime soon. Living in Ohio means I often travel pretty far for a good trail. This said, when I do wheel local the trails are very tight and I don't like the idea of any turning radius loss.

You heard right, Dana 60's have much bigger knuckles and they will reduce your turning radius. Just nature of the beast.

 

[JK LYF]

I'm in the learning phase of the Jeep addiction, but I'll chime in for what it's worth. I have a 2 door and running 37s on my front D30 (tires actually measure 36). I intended on getting a new front axle first but it didn't work out that way as I got the tires on a deal I could not pass on.

Having said that, I have not spent one dime on my D30 and won't. I have not taken it out on anything other than small trails as I feel very confident the axle will not last with the heavier tires (and they are heavy). And for me, after reading many WOL threads, I soon realized it's not just the front axle that has to be addressed when going to 37s. I have to deal with an appropriate lift, bumpstops, pinch seams, brake lines, drive shaft and gears to make my rig truly functional in order to maximize the 37s for the type of wheeling I would like to do.

So in my case, just throwing on 37s without taking care of the other issues, more than likely, made my rig less functional. But I was warned before I did it. I decided to build my rig around the tires I got. I like the 37s and will stay with them, it's just taking my money to get the build I want!

Bottom line, my 37s are holding up just fine driving it to the grocery store!

If I missed anything please chime in.

 

[K.D.C.H]

Lots of great info here Eddie, thanks. I know I'll be wanting a PR60 rear but wasn't sure on the fronted I'd go 44 or 60. I know I'll be starting out with 35's because of my D30 but my goal is 37's however I would like to have the option for 40's just in case I ever feel the need them.

Looks like it's PR60's front and rear for me