3.6L Oil Filter/Cooler Adaptor Housing Replacement

So identified that i'm leaking coolant from oil cooler or rear hose, or both, and am set to replace the cooler, hoses and spark plugs on my 2012 JKUR this weekend. I ordered an oil cooler on amazon and it arrived yesterday. It's part # 68105583AF, which is for the 2014-2016 JKs. But this thread seems to indicate that it will work on mine as long as I use the 2014+ oil filters. Is that correct?

Thanks,
Mike

When I replaced the cooler on my 2012 I used the newer housing and haven’t had any problems with it. You just have to remember to use the newer filters when you do an oil change.
 
Thanks NecessaryEvil for a great write up! Just finished mine, went well! The latest cooler has a different bolt pattern than the All Data page but other than that it was pretty easy. Thanks again for the time you put in this!
 
THANKS (and a few Q's)

First, THANK YOU!!! Been a stalker here for a while, and this write up has paid off.

A few questions to OP or anyone else that has done this repair:
- What is broken on this that is causing the leak? Are the new/replacement parts (68105583AF, if I am correct) any better or will I expect them to fail too?
- Is MOPAR 68105583AF the latest/best replacement?
- How long did it take from start to finish (minus photos, for OP)?

Again, thank you and thanks in advance for any replies!
 
Yea this thread helped me so much,

Took me about 6 hours total 3 one night and 3 the second night.

On mine it didnt even seem to be cracked that k could find yet i baleave it was one of the seals to the block

I purchested this one, dealer wanted $299, this one is a mopar part in a mopar box

Chrysler Dodge Jeep Wrangler Oil Filter Housing Adapter Mopar OEM https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E8YO2ZW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_rMC-BbSEBWXFN

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This one is for 2014-2016, my jku is a 2012 it fits the same you just have to use the 2014-2016 oil filters as the updated the filter style but you wont have that issue

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You would think it would be covered but thats not what i have read in other forms, coast me intotal about $300 doing new oil and plugs, this part does come with a new filter in it, dealer quoted me alittle over $1k to do the job but im out of warranty for sure

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Thanks. I have a 2015. Is there a difference between the part you posted from Amazon (# 68105583Ae) and #68105583AF?

Also, shouldn't this be covered under the 5 year/100k mile powertrain warranty?
AE to AF is just a minor revision of the part. Many online sites don't update when MOPAR does so don't be surprised if you get the AF even though it says AE.

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You would think it would be covered but thats not what i have read in other forms, coast me intotal about $300 doing new oil and plugs, this part does come with a new filter in it, dealer quoted me alittle over $1k to do the job but im out of warranty for sure

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I had mine replaced under warranty about 8 months ago. It was still covered under the power train warranty and didn’t pay a penny. I got lucky I think now seeing dealerships won’t pay for it.


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Anyone have the torque specs for installing the new housing (not just the cooler) and bolt tightening pattern/sequence?
Sitting apart in garage right now, waiting for answer! No pressure!
 
I ran into the same problem, latest All Data spec is different than the latest housing. I snugged all the bolts down then used a typical cross pattern with 107in lbs on the four main bolts and 71 in lbs on the bolt closest to the filter. Same tourque specs, different bolt pattern. Worked for me, no leaks.
 
Filter Adapter Torque Spec/Sequence

Again, very much appreciated, I had found that as well, but no details on house specs.


Hey CTarna,
I just did this replacement on my 2014 JK, and likely this info is too late to help you...but this may help others doing this repair later. I have a friend at the dealer who looked it up and told me the five E8 torx screws holding the filter/adapter to the block should be tightened to 106in-lbs. The torque sequence is in the attachment below.
Also important to note, both manuals I read were clear that only the o-ring on the tube (#1 in the o-ring picture) should be pre-lubed with clean engine oil. The other seals (all the #2 seals in the same picture) should be left dry.
Been a week since I did it, so far all clean and dry. Fingers crossed! 😬
 

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