12' Gecko Build

Making some headway getting this rear axle placed. Think I may need to push it right just a little but so far I think I'm set with how far back it is and the pinion angle. Next to throw the rear shocks in and see what I have for bump stops to order.

Everything clears. It's really tight but it all clears with what looks like 3.5" of bump extension

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Is that the "standard" placement for the exhaust when you have them run it behind the driverside tire, or did you request that?
 
Chuck84 said:
Is that the "standard" placement for the exhaust when you have them run it behind the driverside tire, or did you request that?
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I didn't request anything specific for the exhaust routing. Thats just where motec ran it.
I did have them put in an exhaust cut out that is right around the transfer case area but doubt that had any effect on placement of the rest
 
Working on front axle adjustments. Bumps hit perfectly center, caster is set at 7. Ended up ordering an adjustable track bar since I'm about 2" farther driver than I'd like.
Checking other clearances my main limfack right now is my drag link contacting my tie rod long before I'm getting to full bump. Gonna be missing out on 2" of up travel the way it sits but I don't see much in the way of doing anything about it. Seems to be a common theme on this axles on their FB group

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desertrunner said:
Working on front axle adjustments. Bumps hit perfectly center, caster is set at 7. Ended up ordering an adjustable track bar since I'm about 2" farther driver than I'd like.
Checking other clearances my main limfack right now is my drag link contacting my tie rod long before I'm getting to full bump. Gonna be missing out on 2" of up travel the way it sits but I don't see much in the way of doing anything about it. Seems to be a common theme on this axles on their FB group

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So I’m confused on why these are more prone to contact than others. I’m assuming the tie rod offset is standard, so they have a shorter arm on the casting? Giving up uptravel would suck.
 
Bizcuit said:
So I’m confused on why these are more prone to contact than others. I’m assuming the tie rod offset is standard, so they have a shorter arm on the casting? Giving up uptravel would suck.
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From what i can tell it's just the fact that the TREs are so large and the tire rod mounts on top of the knuckle. If I was running 40s it would stuff better but really I'm only losing 2 inches. Yeah id like it to be perfect but it's not the end of the world. It's a pretty common problem on their Facebook group people talk about. Some have run straight TREs on the tie rod to off set the alignment, some have run a different tie rod all together. Most just run more bump stop. I guess on a newer knuckle they use they moved the mounting higher and flipped the tie rod to the bottom and that helps.
I could drill the knuckles and taper them to run it on the bottom but im gonna run it the way it is with 5" of bump and just see if I even notice. If I really feel the need for that extra 2" I'll make some adjustments
 
Ight so the front major components are all in. Control arms adjusted, measured for drive shafts, steering in and initially alligned, bumps in their final resting place. Springs and shocks are in. I have the new track bar but I'm gonna wait till I get it on its own weight to see if I need to make that adjustment.

Moving on to the rear. Shocks are in for cycling and bump stop measuring. Main limfac back there is the diff contacting the evap mount. But I can still get it to about 1/2" of shock showing and 3" bumps so I'm happy there. Once I get those in and cycle again I'll throw the springs in and finally get this thing off jack stands for all of the ride height measuring and hooking up the miscellaneous sway bar, brake lines, ABS etc.

It's not fast progress but it's still moving forward

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