12' Gecko Build

desertrunner said:
Dang that stinks, with driver at full droop and passenger at full stuff I have like 16" shock length, with the drivers side close to bump and passenger at full bump I'm at 17.25" shock length. So I'll be losing almost 1.5" of up travel on that side. And hell most 4" lift shocks are 17" collapsed if I am going to have to add that much bump anyway why not get a ton of down travel haha.

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I think for off-road application, you won't even notice the 1.5 inch loss.
 
WJCO said:
I think for off-road application, you won't even notice the 1.5 inch loss.
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So just was able to stack up enough wood and use my Jack to get both sides to full bump at the same time and yeah I'm now at 18" for shock length on the passenger side which comes out to be 2.5" of bump stop extension. Which considering I got 1" lift out of the 4dr coils and I just added a 3/4" spacer to the front. 2.5" of bump stop doesnt really seem that far out of the realm of reasonable, for real though I can't find a reason not to be able to run a 4" lift shock. If I add bump 2-2.5" of bump stop my shock length is around 17.5-18" at full bump and at almost 28" my coil is still seated. When looking at the king 2.0 shocks for 3-5" of lift they run roughly 17-27" full range so I don't see a reason why I can't run that even though I'm only at 1.75" of lift in the front.

The biggest puzzle piece I'm missing here is my drive shaft. I haven't gotten it put together enough to measure and order my new 1350 shaft so maybe at 27" droop my drive shaft will contact the exhaust but right now that's the only thing that may stop me from going with what is advertised as a 4" lift shock. Any thoughts?

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The measurements when I cycle the axle seem to work out for a shock measuring 17-27 I just don't want to end up with other issues I'm not thinking about if I go with a shock that big. Either way I'm going to order new shocks but I want to cover my bases before making the choice to go with a shock that measures 15.5-25" or 17-27"

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The jeep is back on its own weight!!!!!! So among the axle swap I also tossed in a set of 3/4" spacers up front and I think it leveled it out PERFECT! I love the stance it has with 33s.

Still plenty of work to be done but I'll take the small victory right now.

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Still up on the to do list now that I have it on the tires again.

Measure and order the new 1350 front drive shaft. Once that is installed check the droop and see if I can get away with shocks that measure out to 27".

Still have to check the clearance at full left and right turn to see if I need to cut off the hydro assist bracket.

Figure out how and were I can mount my steering stabilizer.

That should complete the front end. Then as soon as it's driveable I can take it down to AEV in Missoula to get the rear ARB and ring and pinion installed.

Then work on getting a compressor and air lines run to the lockers..... long way to go haha



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looking for some confirmation on caster / pinion angle measurements

so at the ball joint i am showing 7* angled back
and at the flat spot by the diff cover im showing -3*

that all equates to 7* caster and -3* pinion angle which makes sense since the unlimited housing has 10* difference between the two.

SO did i really get that lucky that on 1.75" of lift and all stock control arms that i nailed it perfect at 7*/3* just like dynatrac recommends?!?!
Or am i somehow messing up the pinion angle measurement? I dont have a drive shaft installed so i feel like that measurement should be the angle between the DS and the Yoke? :idontknow:
 
TrainWreck618 said:
Dynatrac recommends to measure from the pinion flange


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when i toss my angle finder on the pinion yoke i get that same 3* that i got off the front of the pumpkin, but that is 3* off of level ground and doesn't have anything to do with angle difference between the yoke and the actual drive shaft. unless that is how pinion angle is supposed to be measured :thinking:
 
desertrunner said:
when i toss my angle finder on the pinion yoke i get that same 3* that i got off the front of the pumpkin, but that is 3* off of level ground and doesn't have anything to do with angle difference between the yoke and the actual drive shaft. unless that is how pinion angle is supposed to be measured :thinking:
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The flat part of the front of the pumpkin and the pinion flange are parallel to each other. So they will read the same. So if your ground is a level zero and you are getting 3 degrees at the flange, then 3 degrees is your pinion angle reading.
 
WJCO said:
The flat part of the front of the pumpkin and the pinion flange are parallel to each other. So they will read the same. So if your ground is a level zero and you are getting 3 degrees at the flange, then 3 degrees is your pinion angle reading.
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That's what I figured since they are in line with each other. I still find it hard to believe that at 1.75" of lift and the unlimited housing with all stock control arms it just happened to land right at 7* of caster and 3* of pinion angle.

Really I'm just trying to make sure I don't need to order control arms from evo before the sale ends haha
WJCO said:
The flat part of the front of the pumpkin and the pinion flange are parallel to each other. So they will read the same. So if your ground is a level zero and you are getting 3 degrees at the flange, then 3 degrees is your pinion angle reading.
Click to expand...


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Sounds like you got lucky. With 10 degrees of separation, if your getting 3 degrees on the flange you should be good. Just make sure to subtract the difference of the floor


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TrainWreck618 said:
Sounds like you got lucky. With 10 degrees of separation, if your getting 3 degrees on the flange you should be good. Just make sure to subtract the difference of the floor


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Yup I had .5* at the floor that got added and subtracted accordingly. Just crazy after all the back and forth undecided months on whether I was even going to try to unlimited housing on this set up and then it just happens to work out with no adjustable components and no crazy coil bow.
TrainWreck618 said:
Sounds like you got lucky. With 10 degrees of separation, if your getting 3 degrees on the flange you should be good. Just make sure to subtract the difference of the floor


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Has anyone ever cut off these stock brake line brackets? If I mount them in the stock spot they are way too short. If I leave them out they will fit. But I'm nervous to cut the brake line haha. Or should I just get new SS brake lines?

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WJCO said:
Most I've seen use an aftermarket line. Rancho, Clayton, ETC.
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makes sense, the stock ones are long enough if i dont use that spring perch mounting bracket but it doesnt come off easy and i dont want to end up cutting into the brake line. might just be easier to buy a new SS set. something else to add to my evo cart before the sale ends haha
 
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