12' Gecko Build

Took the coils out and cycled the suspension and looks like everything checks out clearance wise. The only thing that is going to hit is the track bar bracket to the frame on the passenger side. Doing some measurements looks like 1.5" of added bump stop should catch it .25" before hitting the frame.

20171025_214549.jpg

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
BaddestCross said:
I think 3" of bump stop is recommended for a raised track bar.

--
Build Thread - Adventures of Fiona - https://wayalife.com/showthread.php?t=47407
Click to expand...
So the axle has a raised track bar mount but I am still using the lower hole that's mounted in the stock location. So my track bar isn't anywhere near the frame it's just the bracket itself that's hitting the frame. I cycled the suspension to right before the bracket hits the frame (pic above) and I have 1.25" of gap between the bump pad and the upper post, so 3" would make no sense in my case.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
desertrunner said:
So the axle has a raised track bar mount but I am still using the lower hole that's mounted in the stock location. So my track bar isn't anywhere near the frame it's just the bracket itself that's hitting the frame. I cycled the suspension to right before the bracket hits the frame (pic above) and I have 1.25" of gap between the bump pad and the upper post, so 3" would make no sense in my case.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using WAYALIFE mobile app
Click to expand...
Gotcha. My eyes are old. I see what you're talking about now. 😎

--
Build Thread - Adventures of Fiona - https://wayalife.com/showthread.php?t=47407
 
Looks like an extra hockey puck plus a little more will take care of it. Mine was hitting in that exact same spot on the WJ, it even left some marks on the metal a couple of times. More bump stop will fix it.
 
WJCO said:
Looks like an extra hockey puck plus a little more will take care of it. Mine was hitting in that exact same spot on the WJ, it even left some marks on the metal a couple of times. More bump stop will fix it.
Click to expand...
Are hockey pucks really a thing for bump stops? I feel like the rubber would get chipped away easy. But then again paying $80 for a 2" piece of plastic cylinder seems absurd to me

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
desertrunner said:
Are hockey pucks really a thing for bump stops? I feel like the rubber would get chipped away easy. But then again paying $80 for a 2" piece of plastic cylinder seems absurd to me

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using WAYALIFE mobile app
Click to expand...
Pucks work great! I had to buy a bag of them because no one sold them locally. I've still got some left... PM me your address and I'll send you a couple.

--
Build Thread - Adventures of Fiona - https://wayalife.com/showthread.php?t=47407
 
Ok guys next puzzle to figure out.

First off I bought new timkin wheel bearings and the wheel speed censor lines are like 8" shorter than the stock ones.... So the question is can I re use the stock wheel censor lines? I need to cycle the suspension again to see if the new ones are too short but they already look like they will be too short, do they make extensions for the wheel speed censor lines?

20171026_212632.jpg






Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
Last edited:
Next one is the hydro assist bracket that came with the pr44 I ordered. The trail leader package pr44 unlimited comes with the raised track bar bracket and integrated hydro assist mount but that mount is hitting my drag link and I'm not too sure what to do about it.
I have no future plans as of right now to do a hydro assist steering but I would hate to cut the bracket off if I don't need to. Any ideas?

20171026_212842.jpg
20171026_212858.jpg

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
desertrunner said:
Ok guys next puzzle to figure out.

First off I bought new timkin wheel bearings and the wheel speed censor lines are like 8" shorter than the stock ones.... So the question is can I re use the stock wheel censor lines? I need to cycle the suspension again to see if the new ones are too short but they already look like they will be too short, do they make extensions for the wheel speed censor lines?
Click to expand...


I would just re-use the old ones myself as long as sensor isn't broken. Also, there's only two wires in there, so they're very easy to splice and seal if you had to lengthen it. Regardless of which ones you use, when you button up the install, make sure and cycle the axle again to ensure ALL hoses and lines have plenty of slack (abs, brake hoses, breather tube, air locker line, etc).
 
Last edited:
desertrunner said:
Next one is the hydro assist bracket that came with the pr44 I ordered. The trail leader package pr44 unlimited comes with the raised track bar bracket and integrated hydro assist mount but that mount is hitting my drag link and I'm not too sure what to do about it.
I have no future plans as of right now to do a hydro assist steering but I would hate to cut the bracket off if I don't need to. Any ideas?



Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using WAYALIFE mobile app
Click to expand...

Likely it was built that way assuming the drag link would be flipped (because of the raised track bar bracket). You could do that but I think your lift height is too low. Other option if you don't want to cut the bracket would be adjust the steering stops so the wheels stop during a turn before the drag link hits that bracket, that will likely make your turning radius shorter on right turns though.
 
WJCO said:
I would just re-use the old ones myself as long as sensor isn't broken. Also, there's only two wires in there, so they're very easy to splice and seal if you had to. Regardless of which ones you use, when you button up the install, make sure and cycle the axle again to ensure ALL hoses and lines have plenty of slack (abs, brake hoses, breather tube, air locker line, etc).
Click to expand...
My old wheel speed censor worked just fine so my gut feeling was to just use the old one I just didn't know if the old one would work in the new bearing but I haven't tried yet. I was pretty surprised to see the new one was so much shorter. Reading Eddie's write up on the replacement he used the new one and it looks fine but mine looks real short.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
desertrunner said:
My old wheel speed censor worked just fine so my gut feeling was to just use the old one I just didn't know if the old one would work in the new bearing but I haven't tried yet. I was pretty surprised to see the new one was so much shorter. Reading Eddie's write up on the replacement he used the new one and it looks fine but mine looks real short.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using WAYALIFE mobile app
Click to expand...

When you pull the new sensor out of the bearing, just match it up to the old one and make sure they look exactly the same. You should be fine though.
 
WJCO said:
Likely it was built that way assuming the drag link would be flipped (because of the raised track bar bracket). You could do that but I think your lift height is too low. Other option if you don't want to cut the bracket would be adjust the steering stops so the wheels stop during a turn before the drag link hits that bracket, that will likely make your turning radius shorter on right turns though.
Click to expand...
Yeah there is no way I would want to flip the drag link at 1" of lift, it's funny because when I turn the wheel full left it slides right in between the bracket and doesn't hang up but I'm sure the second I try to cycle the suspension with a full left turn it's going to be an issue, I don't really want to loose that much turn radius but I need to get the tire on it and actually see what I'm working with before I make that call

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom