Which hood latches

fusion_jeff said:
I was talking with a friend from a local club about hood flutter a while ago. His solution has worked way better than I thought it would. All you need to do is remove the hood pop-up spring. It makes opening the hood slightly more difficult, but the flutter is completely gone now with out switching out the stock straps. Just a free alternative. If you don’t like it, put the spring back and go pickup some pretty metal hood latches.


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I did this as well before adding the RR latches. It did help but did not eliminate it completely at 65 MPH+.
 
fusion_jeff said:
I was talking with a friend from a local club about hood flutter a while ago. His solution has worked way better than I thought it would. All you need to do is remove the hood pop-up spring. It makes opening the hood slightly more difficult, but the flutter is completely gone now with out switching out the stock straps. Just a free alternative. If you don’t like it, put the spring back and go pickup some pretty metal hood latches.


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It helps but doesn’t solve it.


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Tanktitan said:
I have followed this thread as I have had major flutter issues, as most anyone has, when they pass simi’s on two lane roads (especially simi’s with irregular shaped trailers as they cause a good deal of air disturbance). My question, without re-reading the whole thread is this, has anyone ever personally experienced a true latch failure?
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Yep, that is exactly what happened to mine.

VeruGE*144 said:
^^^^^^^he did
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Yup.

Tanktitan said:
When the rubber latch shown broke, I take it the other side held, as well as the under hood latch? Did this result in any damage to the hood?
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The other side held and the under hood latch held. I'd guess it came up a good 8-10 inches on the passenger side when it went. I had to bend the hood back a little bit, but no permanent damage. I wouldn't want to trust that safety catch again though...

Also, I trimmed the pop-up spring under the hood before this happened. I just left a little on there to help when shutting the hood, the spring was short enough it didn't lift the hood at all when closed. Even if I had removed it completely I doubt it would have prevented the break.
 
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Brute said:
I have these on the Brute...I'm going to remove them. First, even if you spray them with wd40, the locks can stick...2nd, if you have a fire in the engine bay, it takes longer to open the hood...
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Fire in the engine bay ...

Excellent point. Last year one of my PSC lines blew and spewed hydraulic oil up into my engine bay, including some on the exhaust manifold. Needless to say, I was out of the cab in hurry, fire extinguisher in hand, getting the hood up. I was very lucky it didn’t ignite.
 
Brute said:
I have these on the Brute...I'm going to remove them. First, even if you spray them with wd40, the locks can stick...2nd, if you have a fire in the engine bay, it takes longer to open the hood...
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fiend said:
Fire in the engine bay ...

Excellent point. Last year one of my PSC lines blew and spewed hydraulic oil up into my engine bay, including some on the exhaust manifold. Needless to say, I was out of the cab in hurry, fire extinguisher in hand, getting the hood up. I was very lucky it didn’t ignite.
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I run the locking ones as well only because that’s what my wife bought. I had the same concern so I just leave them unlocked on the trail.


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Tanktitan said:
I have followed this thread as I have had major flutter issues, as most anyone has, when they pass simi’s on two lane roads (especially simi’s with irregular shaped trailers as they cause a good deal of air disturbance). My question, without re-reading the whole thread is this, has anyone ever personally experienced a true latch failure?


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Click to expand...

I have lost 2 factory latches on 2 different JK’s. Went with the rugged ridge latches. 50 mph winds and semis in windy Kansas!



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