Which 17" beadlocks do you recommend?

piginajeep said:
Love my Walkers and their new rims are suppose to be stronger, but those damn bolts are the weak point.

I bet the slab rings are twice the thickness
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Has anyone looked at the Walker Evans Short Course Rings that are supposed to be thicker?
 
Can anyone chime in on the DD question? Mines not my DD but my wheeling trips involve driving from PA out west. A set of bead locks is on my hit list but
what's the streetability like on these? Balancing issues?
 
I have the Chamber Pro 2 with black on black. I love them. I have wider axles so I wasn't worried about the backspacing. No rubbing issues. ImageUploadedByWAYALIFE1441203754.234763.jpg
 
So I (and many others) drive long distances no issues. I will drive 8+ hours and all bolts stay tight. For me no balancing issues either.
I am on a set of 38.5's. I do check them before I leave and check them when I stop. Just to make sure I hear that "click" from the torque wrench.
Good luck.


Ddays said:
Can anyone chime in on the DD question? Mines not my DD but my wheeling trips involve driving from PA out west. A set of bead locks is on my hit list but
what's the streetability like on these? Balancing issues?
Click to expand...
 
Thanks for the info.... now all I gotta do is figure out which ones I want. :doh:
I'm so far down the damn rabbit hole $$ I don't remember if I took the blue pill or the red one....
 
Anyone using the Chamber Pro II Beadlocks with 40" Nitto trail grapplers?

Having issues with the extra thick bead and sealing so no air leaks or brakeing bolts?

Soacers needed for the ring?

Thanks
 
2011jk said:
Anyone using the Chamber Pro II Beadlocks with 40" Nitto trail grapplers?

Having issues with the extra thick bead and sealing so no air leaks or brakeing bolts?

Soacers needed for the ring?

Thanks
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No spacers are needed. Are you sure the bead is set properly?
 
2011jk said:
Anyone using the Chamber Pro II Beadlocks with 40" Nitto trail grapplers?

Having issues with the extra thick bead and sealing so no air leaks or brakeing bolts?

Soacers needed for the ring?

Thanks
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I am and I'm not having any issues. Did you put both valve steams in? :) I didn't the first time! Lol
 
The ring will pulldown into the tire a bit. I have about 1/4 inch of thread showing underneath the ring.
 
Yes they are installed correctly and per Allied tq'd to 25lbs, done this 3 times now. Never had leaks in 20 years of running beadlocks but the Nittos have a very thick bead even thicker than the MTR hence having to run the spacers.

I also have OMF beadlocks with MTR's and they use 3 spacers per OMF and no leaks.

Both Allied and OMF require spacers if the Alumnum ring bends or doesn't seat on the rim.
 
2011jk said:
Yes they are installed correctly and per Allied tq'd to 25lbs, done this 3 times now. Never had leaks in 20 years of running beadlocks but the Nittos have a very thick bead even thicker than the MTR hence having to run the spacers.

I also have OMF beadlocks with MTR's and they use 3 spacers per OMF and no leaks.

Both Allied and OMF require spacers if the Alumnum ring bends or doesn't seat on the rim.
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Here's a picture of my chambers and nitto 40's. That's how tight they are and don't leak.
 

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For what it's worth, I'm running the Slabs and 37x12.50 KM2 with the DTD on stock Rubi axles (FOR NOW) and at compression and turning I rub on the triple bypass on both sides. I ran some OMF beadlocked pro comp wheels with 4.25" backspacing and really rubbed the frames until I put 1.5" spacers on.
Is the OP going to be running the Toyo MT 37x13.50?
 
JK_b/c_yolo said:
Here's a picture of my chambers and nitto 40's. That's how tight they are and don't leak.
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Thanks, I assume that the ring isn't tilted in any..IE take a flat bar and place it against the face of the ring so it is at 12 and 6. The ring should be flat so you are not side loading the bolt heads. This will cause them to break-crack.

Picture is the spare tire without the ring shims, its tight like your picture and never leaks, same for the rear tires were before the shims.
I only broke the front rim bolts never the rears, guess from cornering loads.

Now as stated with shims, rings are flat no bolt breaking but leaks air.

If your rings are flat then looks like I'm selling my Allieds and getting new Chambers..IMG_1945.jpg
 
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2011jk said:
Thanks, I assume that the ring isn't tilted in any..IE take a flat bar and place it against the face of the ring so it is at 12 and 6. The ring should be flat so you are not side loading the bolt heads. This will cause them to break-crack.

Picture is the spare tire without the ring shims, its tight like your picture and never leaks, same for the rear tires were before the shims.
I only broke the front rim bolts never the rears, guess from cornering loads.

Now as stated with shims, rings are flat no bolt breaking but leaks air.

If your rings are flat then looks like I'm selling my Allieds and getting new Chambers..
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I'm completely flat, I always get 4 bolts in and torqued down then go around with the rest. I've had zero issues and mounted several of them
 
Good to know..if your rings are not tilted in then they machined the rim for they tricker bead thet these tires have.

Thanks!
 
I might be selling my atx slabs soon with my stock 44 axles soon not yet haven't ordered my new axles yet I'll be doing it within the next month or so
 
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