Where to start

[71cj5kpnoriginal]

Hello, of course I'm new here. I have a 71 cj5 v6 225 . All original as far as I can tell. It sat for a long time. Previous owner purchased it new but sadly went blind. His wife left it under a tarp hoping one of his sons would bring it back to life one day but they had no interest in it and here we are. I cleaned the tank and lines changed the oil got a set of points and it runs fine. But 2nd gear pops out. I pulled tranny took it to trsnny shop 1,300.00 to rebuild. Cheap enouph but put it back in. Drive a mile and the rear drive shaft comes loose internally from transfer case. That brake and all . Any advise would be greatly appreciated. Also what kit is suggested for replacing the points to electronic?

 

[Mike Pierson]

Welcome! I can’t help with the issues but would love to see some pics!

 

[GP NOIR]

I love old Jeeps.

The Buick Dauntless 225 V6 is a good engine. One transmission that will bolt directly to the bell housing is a Muncie SM420. The more modern SM465 might also be a direct bolt in. Both are heavy duty 4 speed truck trannies featuring a granny first gear of about 7:1, great for crawling. Both trannies will mate to the NP231 family of transfer cases. A quick search showed a basic rebuilt SM465 for $1400.

More in depth research should turn up other transmissions that bolt up to your Dauntless.

HEI makes an electronic ignition conversion for the Dauntless.

The 231 (3.8L) V6 is a direct descendent of the 225 and used in GM cars to this day. The 231 is a good candidate for replacing the 225 and is set up for fuel injection. There are differences in the balancing of the engine. The 225 is externally balanced and the 231 is internally balanced.

 

[71cj5kpnoriginal]

I love old Jeeps.

The Buick Dauntless 225 V6 is a good engine. One transmission that will bolt directly to the bell housing is a Muncie SM420. The more modern SM465 might also be a direct bolt in. Both are heavy duty 4 speed truck trannies featuring a granny first gear of about 7:1, great for crawling. Both trannies will mate to the NP231 family of transfer cases. A quick search showed a basic rebuilt SM465 for $1400.

More in depth research should turn up other transmissions that bolt up to your Dauntless.

HEI makes an electronic ignition conversion for the Dauntless.

The 231 (3.8L) V6 is a direct descendent of the 225 and used in GM cars to this day. The 231 is a good candidate for replacing the 225 and is set up for fuel injection. There are differences in the balancing of the engine. The 225 is externally balanced and the 231 is internally balanced.

Hello and thank you for your response. So you suggest to scrap the tranny all together and upgrade. Would I have to have drive shafts built or would the current shafts work with new tranny. Do they also have the transfer case built on to them directly?

 

[GP NOIR]

If it were me, getting a rebuilt heavy duty 4 speed for about the same cost as getting a lighter duty 3 speed rebuilt is the way to go. But I would find out what your options are, define your needs and expectations and weigh the costs before scrapping anything.

The T case is a separate unit that bolts to the back of the transmission. The SM420 & SM465 use a bolt pattern that fits a lot of common T cases, such as the NP231. That gives you several options. The SM420 & SM465 aren’t the only transmissions you can use behind your engine, but they are the two that immediately popped up during a quick search. There may even be a five speed or two that’ll fit. Call Novak or Advanced Adaptors to discuss options and cost. They’re both experts adapting transmissions and T cases to whatever’s in your rig.

@Disciple Off Road (a forum member) might have good info to share.

Chances are, if you change transmission & T case, you’ll need to have driveshafts made to fit. At the very least, I strongly suggest having the driveshafts rebuilt regardless.

This project will cost some money, but it should be affordable and you’re starting with a good Jeep, assuming it’s not clapped out with rust.

 

[71cj5kpnoriginal]

Thanks again ! I apologize for not being more clear in my post . I have already had the transmission rebuilt. I wish I had joined the group first but that said. I want to move forward how ever is best. I do have a limited budget but not too limited and I have time not in a great hurry. The tarp that covered the jeep had rotted into pieces and weather took a toll on the wrap but the jeep faired well not much rust at all. I have taken care of what rust there was. Mostly in the channel above the window.

 

[GP NOIR]

Wanting to move forward is the right attitude. If you decide to upgrade, you should be able to sell your current transmission and recoup at least part of your money. In the meantime, there’s nothing wrong with installing it so you can drive your Jeep while setting aside money for future repairs and modifications. Getting seat time will show you what your rig’s strengths and weaknesses are and what upgrades and changes best fit your Jeep and driving style. It won’t be long before becoming your own Subject Matter Expert.

Got photos?

 

[71cj5kpnoriginal]

Wanting to move forward is the right attitude. If you decide to upgrade, you should be able to sell your current transmission and recoup at least part of your money. In the meantime, there’s nothing wrong with installing it so you can drive your Jeep while setting aside money for future repairs and modifications. Getting seat time will show you what your rig’s strengths and weaknesses are and what upgrades and changes best fit your Jeep and driving style. It won’t be long before becoming your own Subject Matter Expert.

Got photos?

Yes but keep in mind just getting started on this and havent really been able to do much. Yet.

 

[71cj5kpnoriginal]

I'm trying to figure out what to do about the rear driveshaft essentially coming loose. The big brake I think it is and all came loose from t case after less than a mile driving. I did not notice any other issues beyond it popping out of second gear before the tranny rebuild. But after rebuild to tranny and putting back something let go of the spline in there. I dont mind spending money but rather it be on the correct things. Totally new to jeeps always figured on getting one just waited for the right opportunity. I have done some mechanical . I'm a fine parts changer but dont build engines as far knowing what valves and lifters for what cams. Thanks for any help in advance. Jeep with the tranny rebuild a set of cheap tires and a battery so far I am still under $2000.00.

 

[CalSgt]

Sooooo... I'm gonna answer your question with a bunch of questions

If I'm understanding you correctly the driveshaft is still physically attached to the transfer case but is "loose internally" is that correct?

Describe what you mean by Loose internally?
Can you move or wiggle the driveshaft laterally (up/down/left/right) where it is attached to the transfer case?
How is the driveshaft attached to the transfer case? With a slip yoke or a flange?
What condition are the U-joints in?
Is the issue the same regardless of what gear the transfer case is in?

Maybe a good picture of what you are seeing would help too.

 

[71cj5kpnoriginal]

Sooooo... I'm gonna answer your question with a bunch of questions

If I'm understanding you correctly the driveshaft is still physically attached to the transfer case but is "loose internally" is that correct?

Describe what you mean by Loose internally?
Can you move or wiggle the driveshaft laterally (up/down/left/right) where it is attached to the transfer case?
How is the driveshaft attached to the transfer case? With a slip yoke or a flange?
What condition are the U-joints in?
Is the issue the same regardless of what gear the transfer case is in?

Maybe a good picture of what you are seeing would help too.

Ok . I will take pic when I get home still at work. But it moves all directions. Thst brake is what I seen in front of t case but I think there was shaft inbetween the two. The joints didn't seem bad but not 100% sure on that.none of the little needle bearings were missing out of them to cause play in the joints unless I missed it. It has been a minute since it happened so I can be more specific after I get back and look . Thanks alot for the help!!!

 

[71cj5kpnoriginal]

Ok so the driveshaft is connected that brake seems to be not connected inside of itself . I cant see the end of the t case clearly . Not sure how the pics turned out for you.just let me know if you would like more. I will go ahead and drop the drive shaft and see what happens with that brake. Thank a million for your help. Never seen anything like this b4.

 

[GP NOIR]

Is that oil from the T case?

Take a long screwdriver and use to see if there's play in the u-joints. Even if there isn't, I think you should rebuild both driveshafts. U-joints look old and dry.

Then remove the drive shaft and brake drum and inspect everything.

 

[71cj5kpnoriginal]

Yes that oil is from the t case. I remember it was clean fresh from tranny rebuild when I put the unit back in and then after that very short drive and all at once huge clanking / vibrating that oil started pouring out right there at the drum. I believe it was coming out through the drum when I looked roadside. Could be mistaken on side of the road didnt really feel safe with traffic . Pulling it up on trailer tilted it far enough it could have ran through drum that way. Thanks again , Marvin.

 

[CalSgt]

I’d call the shop that rebuilt it and have them check it over.

 

[71cj5kpnoriginal]

I’d call the shop that rebuilt it and have them check it over.

I did call and speak with the shop. They instructed me to pull it back out and bring it to them. But I already did that if it is the work they performed I would rather not let them do any more. Lick my wounds and move on. I really do appreciate the thought and you taking your time to read my post and answer.

 

[CalSgt]

Well… if they are worth a shit they will make it right. If it’s their screw up and are willing to repair the issue it would be worth while to pull it and take it back in.

 

[bobfriesenhahn]

Well… if they are worth a shit they will make it right. If it’s their screw up and are willing to repair the issue it would be worth while to pull it and take it back in.

Maybe they are scew-ups and will never make it right. I have lost a lot of money to a screw-up shop due to foolishly going back and asking them to fix the problems that happened while in their care.

 

[71cj5kpnoriginal]

I pulled drive shaft. There was a very small amount of play in ujoints but the drum moving it made it hard to tell. The spine moves in and out of t case about 1 " . Wont come completely out but freely moves that much it move the front tire when turned . The large nut on spline is very tight. I had to put my dewalt impact on charge last night and am going to proceed with taking that drum apart shortly. Thanks again for all the input.

 

[71cj5kpnoriginal]

Is that oil from the T case?

Take a long screwdriver and use to see if there's play in the u-joints. Even if there isn't, I think you should rebuild both driveshafts. U-joints look old and dry.

Then remove the drive shaft and brake drum and inspect everything.

There is not play to speak of left to right or up and down but that 1 " in and out is not very hard to move.