What problems does your Jeep have this week?

Snboarder113 said:
There’s a squeak in the steering wheel/ column all the sudden. I can’t find it. What’s a good like sprayable grease option that won’t just wash away I can douse this thing in? Id use Pb or wd40 but it’ll just drain off.


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Squeak in steering wheel/column ended up being the clock spring on mine. Something to consider.
 
Corrosion paint on the door hinges I was prepping my Jeep for the winter and I noticed the corrosion on the paint on my door hinges this is 2019 jlu and it's not a year old is anybody know what they're doing for solution

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FYI for future reference for everyone...

The dash on my 2012 JKUR lit up like a Christmas tree last night driving home from Windrock.

Traction control light
Check engine light
Red flashing and beeping lightning bolt

Engine misfiring and went into limp mode intermittently but was able to make it back.

Codes were P0300, P0107 & C121C

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The P0300 and C121C codes were cleared with the scanner but the standing P0107 MAP sensor code would not clear. I replaced the MAP sensor, cleared the code and all is well.


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I got the gascap message driving around town today. I was wheeling yesterday, so I think I found the problem- a busted evap leak pump and clearanced evap canister bracket. I think I can handle the repair, but curious on other peoples experiences with evap armor and evap relocation, pros & cons.20201129_180244.jpg

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rubiDave said:
I got the gascap message driving around town today. I was wheeling yesterday, so I think I found the problem- a busted evap leak pump and clearanced evap canister bracket. I think I can handle the repair, but curious on other peoples experiences with evap armor and evap relocation, pros & cons.View attachment 356061

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I have a rough country skid plate for the evap canister. It was one of the cheaper ones available at the time. Surprisingly good quality and easy to install. As it happens, I’ve never hit it on anything.


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There are few skids that look pretty solid, but they all mount to the factory mounting points on the underbelly sheet metal which seems that would be the next weak spot.

Right now I'm looking at the poison spyder evap skid. It's a fully boxed & 3/16 thick like the Evo one, but replaces the factory bracket rather than covering it (my factory bracket is smashed), and they claim it gives an extra 3/4 inch clearance.
BaddestCross said:
I run EVOs skid. Solid piece.



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Build Thread - Adventures of Fiona - https://wayalife.com/showthread.php?t=47407
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rubiDave said:
There are few skids that look pretty solid, but they all mount to the factory mounting points on the underbelly sheet metal which seems that would be the next weak spot.

Right now I'm looking at the poison spyder evap skid. It's a fully boxed & 3/16 thick like the Evo one, but replaces the factory bracket rather than covering it (my factory bracket is smashed), and they claim it gives an extra 3/4 inch clearance.

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I checked my receipts and I went the poison spydrr route . Here is a shot . It is tucked up higher than the drive shaft. Hasn’t taken a good hit yet doesn’t look like

Adjustments.jpg




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rubiDave said:
There are few skids that look pretty solid, but they all mount to the factory mounting points on the underbelly sheet metal which seems that would be the next weak spot.

Right now I'm looking at the poison spyder evap skid. It's a fully boxed & 3/16 thick like the Evo one, but replaces the factory bracket rather than covering it (my factory bracket is smashed), and they claim it gives an extra 3/4 inch clearance.

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Anything will be better than factory. Like a piece of paper may even be better. Whatever you get you will hit. I have replaced the factory so many times I could have bought like 10 aftermarket. The four doors don’t hit that hardly ever. The two door on the other hand is a magnet there.


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OverlanderJK said:
Anything will be better than factory. Like a piece of paper may even be better. Whatever you get you will hit. I have replaced the factory so many times I could have bought like 10 aftermarket. The four doors don’t hit that hardly ever. The two door on the other hand is a magnet there.


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Thanks. I ended up ordering the Poison spyder skid. After a closer look I see that it bolts to some crossmembers, not the sheet metal like I thought, so should be strong.
Both the evap canister and leak integrity pump are toast. Autozone and Oreileys are out of stock, so I bought genuine Mopar replacements through Quadratec where they were in stock. 40 bucks more for the 2 door evap than the 4 door -go figure.20201130_155842.jpg20201130_155822.jpg

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My Fox steering stabilizer body loosened up by about 3 turns and began to leak oil. Not sure how much? What would you do, have it rebuild (Fox wants $100+ and 3 weeks) or thread it back tight and keep using it?39046.jpeg
 
jjlong said:
My Fox steering stabilizer body loosened up by about 3 turns and began to leak oil. Not sure how much? What would you do, have it rebuild (Fox wants $100+ and 3 weeks) or thread it back tight and keep using it?View attachment 356954
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Doesn’t cost anything to thread it back on and test it. Theoretically it shouldn’t be doing anything anyways if you’re set up right.


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It's not masking any steering issues, although the steering noticeably looser without it. I just don't damage it do to low oil.
 
jjlong said:
It's not masking any steering issues, although the steering noticeably looser without it. I just don't damage it do to low oil.
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If it’s a hundred bucks to rebuild it, it’ll still be a hundred bucks to rebuild it after you turn it.


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