Wall plug

For those of us without a Rubicon... Yes, it's not that hard to install an inverter. Here, I mounted mine under my DIY privacy cover in the rear. I have since upgraded to a 750Watt (1000 watt peak) inverter.

To find the best one for your needs you need to do a little math to find the size you need, then work form there. You need the right sized wiring and the right fuse beside the battery to match your inverter. The stock cigarette outlet can only handle 10amps at 12v, barring losses, thats less than an amp at 120V.

P=V*I, Watts = Volts X Current. My 750W inverter math goes, 750W/120V= 6.3Amps AC, but will draw 750W/12V= 63Amps DC. At full load, the engine should be running (and maybe revving) Since I ran about 20 Feet of wire, I need to use 4AWG size wire straight to the battery, and a 65Amp breaker to protect the wiring. Thats some heavy wiring for just 6 amps of AC power.

g9QCdLO - Imgur.jpg

A popular breaker type http://a.co/huP4P8c
Wire sizing/distance chart http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/amps-wire-gauge-d_730.html
Typical Appliance load chart https://www.georgiapower.com/in-your-community/electric-safety/chart.cshtml
 
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They install the plug and inverter in other models. I have one in my 13 Sahara with a plug on the center console. I don't know the power rating but have only used a lap top charger with it.


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Frydaddy said:
For those of us without a Rubicon... Yes, it's not that hard to install an inverter. Here, I mounted mine under my DIY privacy cover in the rear. I have since upgraded to a 750Watt (1000 watt peak) inverter.

To find the best one for your needs you need to do a little math to find the size you need, then work form there. You need the right sized wiring and the right fuse beside the battery to match your inverter. The stock cigarette outlet can only handle 10amps at 12v, barring losses, thats less than an amp at 120V.

P=V*I, Watts = Volts X Current. My 750W inverter math goes, 750W/120V= 6.3Amps AC, but will draw 750W/12V= 63Amps DC. At full load, the engine should be running (and maybe revving) Since I ran about 20 Feet of wire, I need to use 4AWG size wire straight to the battery, and a 65Amp breaker to protect the wiring. Thats some heavy wiring for just 6 amps of AC power.

View attachment 253182

A popular breaker type http://a.co/huP4P8c
Wire sizing/distance chart http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/amps-wire-gauge-d_730.html
Typical Appliance load chart https://www.georgiapower.com/in-your-community/electric-safety/chart.cshtml
Click to expand...

Keep in mind that nothing is 100% efficient and power supplies/inverters are rated for the output power. So if it's 750w but only 80% efficient then it will take more DC power to convert to AC.

750w/120v=6.25A output
(750w/12v)/.8=78.125A

Just need to verify the efficiency of the power supply and adjust accordingly.

Also cheaper power supplies use modified sine waves and some equipment needs a pure sine wave to run properly.


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WW_Svi said:
Keep in mind that nothing is 100% efficient and power supplies/inverters are rated for the output power. So if it's 750w but only 80% efficient then it will take more DC power to convert to AC.

750w/120v=6.25A output
(750w/12v)/.8=78.125A

Just need to verify the efficiency of the power supply and adjust accordingly.

Also cheaper power supplies use modified sine waves and some equipment needs a pure sine wave to run properly.
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Click to expand...

Yes, exactly this. This is definitely round-two in today's lesson.
 
I ran 4 gauge to the back and installed a 1000 watt. It will run a grinder fine and hopefully a small coffee pot this summer.
 
WJCO said:
I ran 4 gauge to the back and installed a 1000 watt. It will run a grinder fine and hopefully a small coffee pot this summer.
Click to expand...

Could work. This brings up an interesting topic of reactive loads. An inverter typically has two values to its capacity. One called "Peak", Usually 150% of the regular load. This

A coffee maker is a resistive load, constant pull. As long as its wattage is below the regular value, you'll be fine.

A grinder (or anything with a motor) will take a large pull at the beginning as the motor spins up. This is where the peak capacity comes in to play. the value on the grinders label only covers a no-load situation. But if peak draw of the grinder goes above the peak capacity of the inverter, something will pop.

TL;DR - Try to keep your loads under the lesser of the two inverter capacities.



I dont even know how a modified sine wave affects AC motors, but it can't be healthy.
DO NOT attach the AC neutral line to the vehicle ground. (Assume both prongs are hot)
modified-sine-wave-vs-pure-sine-wave.jpg
 
Kalums said:
I'm starting to realize I need and electrical engineering class just to work on my Jeep. Although I will admit I'm learning alot here.

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Click to expand...

Theres a lot of hocus-pocus involved to get the magic pixies down the copper pipe. The main takeaway is to be aware of how the wattage converts on both sides of the inverter. P=V*I, and leave some wiggle room. WJCO gave an example above, while WW_SVI and I geeked out a bit (but covered everything you could need on the topic).
 
Geeking out is good and perfectly fine... I personally appreciate it. I've only purchased an 800w inverter but i will be running 4ga wire and run a curcuit breaker/switch (like the bussman marine version) so hopefully that will work for me. I don't ever plan on running it at full load or even approach surge level. Like I said though I appreciate the information so, keep it coming. 👍👍👍

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Frydaddy said:
For those of us without a Rubicon... Yes, it's not that hard to install an inverter. Here, I mounted mine under my DIY privacy cover in the rear. I have since upgraded to a 750Watt (1000 watt peak) inverter.

To find the best one for your needs you need to do a little math to find the size you need, then work form there. You need the right sized wiring and the right fuse beside the battery to match your inverter. The stock cigarette outlet can only handle 10amps at 12v, barring losses, thats less than an amp at 120V.

P=V*I, Watts = Volts X Current. My 750W inverter math goes, 750W/120V= 6.3Amps AC, but will draw 750W/12V= 63Amps DC. At full load, the engine should be running (and maybe revving) Since I ran about 20 Feet of wire, I need to use 4AWG size wire straight to the battery, and a 65Amp breaker to protect the wiring. Thats some heavy wiring for just 6 amps of AC power.

View attachment 253182

A popular breaker type http://a.co/huP4P8c
Wire sizing/distance chart http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/amps-wire-gauge-d_730.html
Typical Appliance load chart https://www.georgiapower.com/in-your-community/electric-safety/chart.cshtml
Click to expand...
Yeah mine did not come with one. my inverter looks exactly like yours. I haven't mounted it as I wanted to take it apart and install the outlets next to my emergency lights button. I have 4 spare slots.

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lopezchris1267 said:
Yeah mine did not come with one. my inverter looks exactly like yours. I haven't mounted it as I wanted to take it apart and install the outlets next to my emergency lights button. I have 4 spare slots.

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Click to expand...

By the Hazard button in the center console? no. It wont work. Not only are those covers too small for an AC outlet, but there is still a circuit board across the entire module. It took a lot of work to just fit a few simple switches.

Your best bet would be to fit a single outlet to the right side, where there is a silly little hook. In this picture, I replaced it with another 12V outlet.

And I dont recommend dissembling the Inverter. Just build a jumper cable into your mounted outlet. Oh, and dont ground the neutral AC line (white). Just assume both vertical prongs are hot.

IMG_20160514_134121992.jpg
 
I can't do it the either. I have a 12v outlet on the right and side mirror controls on the left. As soon as I get some time I might mount it in my center console or glove compartment so it'll be out of site.

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