VIDEO : JL JOURNAL - How to Install 1350 Drive Shafts on a JL WRANGLER

Thanks for a great video! Had one question, for the rear pinion nut torque, you read 41inlb, will that be the same for all JLURs? I.E. do I still have to figure out what my factory torque setting is?

The preload will be different for every Jeep. As I state in the video, checking this isn't exactly required but it is a step that I do. I'm pretty sure that Adam's doesn't even include it as a step in their instructions.
 
Awesome videos, thank you! I've binge watched all your most recent videos, always learn from them.

This video was the first to help me understand the pinion angle adjustment out back.

With the quality of your productions, and the content, I'm amazed you guys don't have a weekly show on Discovery Channel or something like that!

One question with respect to my 2016 JKR, 2.5" lift, stock D44, with GEO brackets (AEV).
Planning a drive shaft for the front, and understand it's a trade off's for caster, flighty steering and pointing the pinion at the T-Case.

It is as simple as remove and install new up front? Possible of getting vibes in this case? Am I over thinking this one?

Thanks again!
 
Awesome videos, thank you! I've binge watched all your most recent videos, always learn from them.

This video was the first to help me understand the pinion angle adjustment out back.

With the quality of your productions, and the content, I'm amazed you guys don't have a weekly show on Discovery Channel or something like that!

One question with respect to my 2016 JKR, 2.5" lift, stock D44, with GEO brackets (AEV).
Planning a drive shaft for the front, and understand it's a trade off's for caster, flighty steering and pointing the pinion at the T-Case.

It is as simple as remove and install new up front? Possible of getting vibes in this case? Am I over thinking this one?

Thanks again!

The number one thing that will get you feeling driveline vibes at all is a driveshaft that isn't balanced and so long as you're running factory gears, 4.10's or lower, you may not even notice an unbalanced shaft. However, once you get up into 5.13 or higher, the shaft will spin so fast that any imperfection would be felt. Likewise, the more your shaft is not in line with the pinion, the greater the chance is that those imperfections will be felt even more. As you mentioned, caster needs to take precedence over the pinion lining up with the driveshaft but so long as your shaft is balanced and you're running about factory caster, you shouldn't feel any vibrations. Of course, if you were running something like a ProRock axle with it's built in 6° of caster, it's a lot easier to get your pinion lining up or very close to it.
 
Thanks for the video! It was very informative. I think I watched it 3 times before I installed my driveshaft and still managed to screw it up! My brain must have been on break when I assumed that loctite that was provided was a lubricant. Now I'm ordering new seals.🤪
 
Thanks for the video! It was very informative. I think I watched it 3 times before I installed my driveshaft and still managed to screw it up! My brain must have been on break when I assumed that loctite that was provided was a lubricant. Now I'm ordering new seals.🤪

Well, we learn by doing.


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The number one thing that will get you feeling driveline vibes at all is a driveshaft that isn't balanced and so long as you're running factory gears, 4.10's or lower, you may not even notice an unbalanced shaft. However, once you get up into 5.13 or higher, the shaft will spin so fast that any imperfection would be felt. Likewise, the more your shaft is not in line with the pinion, the greater the chance is that those imperfections will be felt even more. As you mentioned, caster needs to take precedence over the pinion lining up with the driveshaft but so long as your shaft is balanced and you're running about factory caster, you shouldn't feel any vibrations. Of course, if you were running something like a ProRock axle with it's built in 6° of caster, it's a lot easier to get your pinion lining up or very close to it.

Huh, didn't think about gear ratio making the driveshaft spin faster....good to know. I see I forgot to note I am running the stock 4:10's.

Appreciate the explanation, sounds like with a good quality drive shaft that is well balanced, I shouldn't feel any vibes, so in theory neither should my transfer case.:D (I drive about 650 KM per week)

Cheers
 
Thanks for the video! It was very informative. I think I watched it 3 times before I installed my driveshaft and still managed to screw it up! My brain must have been on break when I assumed that loctite that was provided was a lubricant. Now I'm ordering new seals.🤪

Doh! :crazyeyes:

Huh, didn't think about gear ratio making the driveshaft spin faster....good to know. I see I forgot to note I am running the stock 4:10's.

Appreciate the explanation, sounds like with a good quality drive shaft that is well balanced, I shouldn't feel any vibes, so in theory neither should my transfer case.:D (I drive about 650 KM per week)

Cheers

Yup, right now, your front driveshaft will spin about 4 times for every one full rotation of your tires. With 5.13 or higher, it'll be more than 5 times and that's pretty damn fast for a shaft without any load and with a pinion slightly down from it. So yes, you should be good to go so long as your shaft is well balanced.
 
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