UD60s / Fusion 60s

[Ddays]

I know DT isn't the sexy choice anymore but it's not like their axles aren't any good. Mine came pretty close to the given lead time. Mine were bought through a dealer so idk if that made a difference. If you are going with the Genright 4 link, call them before you buy anything and ask about their supplied options. They're very knowledgeable and will spend time explaining things. Some places aren't like that.
When it comes down to it, any of those brands are good choices.

Edit: one thing I really like about the Currie rear axle is the caliper placement. It's on the front of the rotor instead of the rear. I've seen the rear brake line get ripped off of a caliper. Granted it's not a common thing but still, it's a novel placement.

 

[wayoflife]

I know DT isn't the sexy choice anymore but it's not like their axles aren't any good. Mine came pretty close to the given lead time. Mine were bought through a dealer so idk if that made a difference. If you are going with the Genright 4 link, call them before you buy anything and ask about their supplied options. They're very knowledgeable and will spend time explaining things. Some places aren't like that.
When it comes down to it, any of those brands are good choices.

Edit: one thing I really like about the Currie rear axle is the caliper placement. It's on the front of the rotor instead of the rear. I've seen the rear brake line get ripped off of a caliper. Granted it's not a common thing but still, it's a novel placement.

Couldn't agree more. I'm still running a ProRock 60 front and ProRock 80 rear on Moby and they've served me extremely well. Of course, I still have a ProRock 44 on our JL and it's held up well too. The only thing I would say is to steer clear of their high pinion rear and semi-floats. Just trying to keep the information real.

 

[wjtstudios]

The fusion run Chevy 1 ton brakes on all corners. Getting pads and parts are easily available at any auto parts store.

Eddie has a good point on the custom lengths for the Axles. But I can say it would take a hell of a lot to break that 40 spline rear Weebz and I run.

 

[Weebz]

I know DT isn't the sexy choice anymore but it's not like their axles aren't any good. Mine came pretty close to the given lead time. Mine were bought through a dealer so idk if that made a difference. If you are going with the Genright 4 link, call them before you buy anything and ask about their supplied options. They're very knowledgeable and will spend time explaining things. Some places aren't like that.
When it comes down to it, any of those brands are good choices.

Edit: one thing I really like about the Currie rear axle is the caliper placement. It's on the front of the rotor instead of the rear. I've seen the rear brake line get ripped off of a caliper. Granted it's not a common thing but still, it's a novel placement.

WCJ….Byron. Lol

 

[desertrunner]

If you want DT's order now and you might have them in 2023. I wouldn't run their stuff if thay gave me a set.

Yeah that goes down in the pros and cons list. If their axle is worth it maybe deal with the cons. But right now I think there are other options I'd consider first

 

[desertrunner]

The only real benefit I can see to go wide is to run wheel with less back spacing. If you were to get a Dynatrac axle, you can custom order it to whatever length you want. The biggest downside to custom length axles is that you have to order custom length shafts. AS IN, if you were to break a shaft, you are SOL until one can be made. Also, having run both, I can tell you that I would get a standard ProRock 60 over an XD60 and mainly because you can install an EVO high steer kit and have your ram installed like it really should be - attached to the knuckle!

Aside from that, I'm glad to hear so many positive reviews about Fusion. Wouldn't hesitate to run Currie too so long as the rear is a full float.

Oh, one other thing to consider are the brakes that come with the axles. I have NEVER been impressed with the puny brakes that come on Dynatrac axles and have been super impressed with the massive ones that come on UD60s. Not sure what come on Fusion but that would be something to consider in my book.

My thought was if I am going to spend that much money on a set of axles I better be able to beat on them without worried about breaking stuff. So running more like 5" backspace would help that. Run the 72" axle and more backspace would be nice. I did see last night that in the axle packages Dynatrac added the extra width option. But it's $995, so maybe they are making more of the longer shafts who knows. I didn't look that much into the brakes on the fusions but speaking of extras I've always thought the included steering links on the dynatracs looked small. Where the fusion ones look massive. Do the UD60s come with any steering included? Because that's another chunk of $ that is a plus for Fusion

 

[desertrunner]

I know DT isn't the sexy choice anymore but it's not like their axles aren't any good. Mine came pretty close to the given lead time. Mine were bought through a dealer so idk if that made a difference. If you are going with the Genright 4 link, call them before you buy anything and ask about their supplied options. They're very knowledgeable and will spend time explaining things. Some places aren't like that.
When it comes down to it, any of those brands are good choices.

Edit: one thing I really like about the Currie rear axle is the caliper placement. It's on the front of the rotor instead of the rear. I've seen the rear brake line get ripped off of a caliper. Granted it's not a common thing but still, it's a novel placement.

Couldn't agree more. I'm still running a ProRock 60 front and ProRock 80 rear on Moby and they've served me extremely well. Of course, I still have a ProRock 44 on our JL and it's held up well too. The only thing I would say is to steer clear of their high pinion rear and semi-floats. Just trying to keep the information real.

by no means am i completely writing them off. all 4 axles on both my jeep are Dynatrac in some way or another and im not sad about that. But i do think in recent years a few more options have popped up that are comparable in price, strength, and customer service so i want to get as much info as possible. when it comes time to order and i think thet DT is right option for me ill go for it but Fusion is sure looking good right now. Just have to see if the price point over the UD60s is worth it.

IDK im kidding if i think its going to happen all that soon but 2-3 years might be realistic

 

[desertrunner]

The fusion run Chevy 1 ton brakes on all corners. Getting pads and parts are easily available at any auto parts store.

Eddie has a good point on the custom lengths for the Axles. But I can say it would take a hell of a lot to break that 40 spline rear Weebz and I run.

Ya i cant imagine a world where i would break 40 spline rears. Did you also go 1410 yoke?
my thought was more on the front axle with maybe the DT XD60 edging out the fusion 60 but also kingpin vs ball joints and eddie made a good point about the high steer and put the ram on the knuckle. Id be willing to bet you could run a high steer off of the Fusion too. Not sure why thats not an option on the XD60

 

[desertrunner]

I can tell you that I would get a standard ProRock 60 over an XD60 and mainly because you can install an EVO high steer kit and have your ram installed like it really should be - attached to the knuckle!

do you think that outweighs all the other benefits of the XD60? I know you didnt have it nearly as long as the pro 60 on Moby. Also why cant you run a double sheer on the XD knuckle?

 

[wjtstudios]

Ya i cant imagine a world where i would break 40 spline rears. Did you also go 1410 yoke?
my thought was more on the front axle with maybe the DT XD60 edging out the fusion 60 but also kingpin vs ball joints and eddie made a good point about the high steer and put the ram on the knuckle. Id be willing to bet you could run a high steer off of the Fusion too. Not sure why thats not an option on the XD60

For now I am running 1350s because that’s what my DSs were. If and when the engine gets swapped, I’ll upgrade to 1410s.

 

[devwil68]

Fusion is top notch...but I am biased. LOL

 

[MericaMade]

Doing some dream shopping was was just curious where most people are buying their crate UD60s from? Particularly ones with ARB lockers and not E lockers. I feel like the only crates axles I have found online are built with E lockers. Also looking at price for just a front axle Fusion only being about $500 more and you have length options plus ARBs plus king pin IDK seems like if I were to buy today Fusion is the way to do. (excluding dynatrac of course)

When I was shopping for my UD 60s I was told there are some weird fitment issues in the ud60 housing causing leaks with the seals with ARBs. After talking to a few vendors including Mel who sold me on the E lockers and I'm can say i am glad I went with them. Knowing what I know now on the Curries they would be my first choice, but I have nothing bad to say about the UD60s.

 

[lloydrage]

All I can say is that I’ve been happy with my UD60s and e-lockers. Of course, it’s m just a mall crawler.

I have a question. How much articulation is negatively effected by upgrading from 44s to UD60s? What size lift do you suggest to run UD60s?

 

[wayoflife]

I have a question. How much articulation is negatively effected by upgrading from 44s to UD60s? What size lift do you suggest to run UD60s?

None. All should be exactly as it was from the factory only, you have a bigger stronger axle.

 

[lloydrage]

None. All should be exactly as it was from the factory only, you have a bigger stronger axle.

Thanks Eddie. I currently am running a 3" lift on my JK with 37s and considering upgrading to tons so I never have to worry about breaking anything ever.

 

[wayoflife]

Thanks Eddie. I currently am running a 3" lift on my JK with 37s and considering upgrading to tons so I never have to worry about breaking anything ever.

LOL - well, anything can break and I've seen it. But, if you're planning on sticking with 37's, running 1-tons should hold up well, especially if you run a full float rear. I WOULD NOT run a semi-float as they're what I've seen break, even with 37's.

That said, I personally would consider just running an upgraded 44 front axle and just stick with the factory rear. Unless you do a lot of bombing across the desert, that setup will hold up fine.

 

[lloydrage]

LOL - well, anything can break and I've seen it. But, if you're planning on sticking with 37's, running 1-tons should hold up well, especially if you run a full float rear. I WOULD NOT run a semi-float as they're what I've seen break, even with 37's.

That said, I personally would consider just running an upgraded 44 front axle and just stick with the factory rear. Unless you do a lot of bombing across the desert, that setup will hold up fine.

Thank you for replying. I have no plans of going above 37. It fits in the garage and I enjoy wheeling at this height. I dont go heavy on the skinny pedal but I do enjoy rock crawling. It would be much cheaper to go upgraded 44 and stock rear so I am all ears Ive had the Jeep for almost 5 years now and I just hit 18k miles. Its for wheeling, fishing and driving to wheeling/fishing NOT by DD.


So front axle Dynatrac44, UD44, TF44, etc. With chromoly shafts, rear with chromoly shafts. Any other upgrades you suggest doing?

I want to upgrade my brakes and steering as well so will probably go with a big rotor kit and yeti steer smarts 1 or 2.5 ton steering. I dont know if I need ram assist but maybe just upgrade steering box?

Any advise is really appreciated, thanks

 

[wayoflife]

Thank you for replying. I have no plans of going above 37. It fits in the garage and I enjoy wheeling at this height. I dont go heavy on the skinny pedal but I do enjoy rock crawling. It would be much cheaper to go upgraded 44 and stock rear so I am all ears Ive had the Jeep for almost 5 years now and I just hit 18k miles. Its for wheeling, fishing and driving to wheeling/fishing NOT by DD.


So front axle Dynatrac44, UD44, TF44, etc. With chromoly shafts, rear with chromoly shafts. Any other upgrades you suggest doing?

I want to upgrade my brakes and steering as well so will probably go with a big rotor kit and yeti steer smarts 1 or 2.5 ton steering. I dont know if I need ram assist but maybe just upgrade steering box?

Any advise is really appreciated, thanks

Oh yeah, for just rock crawling, there's no need to upgrade your rear axle. Definitely want to upgrade your shafts to chromoly but I would do that AFTER you've bent a flange. You'll be able to drive around just fine like that and there's no need to spend money on something you don't need yet.

Up front, I'd probably recommend a PR44 as it really has the best overall design. Just be prepared to wait a bit for it. I would NOT recommend anything TeraFlex. Chromoly shafts with full circle clips is what I would recommend as well.

Not really a fan of Steer Smart but mainly because they're full of themselves and came on this forum behaving like a jackass. Ram assist is nice to have but not critical to have. If you do install one, you'll want to be sure to upgrade your tie-rod at the same time as it WILL bend your factory one. I've been running Synergy and happy with their components but there are LOTS of other great options out there. RPM is another I would recommend.

 

[WJCO]

yeti steer smarts

 

[lloydrage]

Oh yeah, for just rock crawling, there's no need to upgrade your rear axle. Definitely want to upgrade your shafts to chromoly but I would do that AFTER you've bent a flange. You'll be able to drive around just fine like that and there's no need to spend money on something you don't need yet.

Up front, I'd probably recommend a PR44 as it really has the best overall design. Just be prepared to wait a bit for it. I would NOT recommend anything TeraFlex. Chromoly shafts with full circle clips is what I would recommend as well.

Not really a fan of Steer Smart but mainly because they're full of themselves and came on this forum behaving like a jackass. Ram assist is nice to have but not critical to have. If you do install one, you'll want to be sure to upgrade your tie-rod at the same time as it WILL bend your factory one. I've been running Synergy and happy with their components but there are LOTS of other great options out there. RPM is another I would recommend.

Ive heard great things about Synergy and RPM so open to them as well.

Good point about waiting to upgrade rear until I bend a flange. Upgrade front ahead of breakage or keep spares?

I have a question - Why do you not like Teraflex? Did something happen? I understand why you like Dynatrac (great products and personal friends of yours, though I feel like you have always been honest about their products). Just wondering why the dislike for Tera.

One of the reasons I think you and your company has such a great name is because you are honest. Brutely honest. Thats all I want in this world