Track Bar/Drag Link Angles

MDK210

New member
I’ve been reading a ton on this topic with some saying both need to be parallel to each other and others stating they should be as horizontal as possible. I’ve even called companies asking what angles they should be for proper geometry but I never seem to get a definitive answer. Closest I can find is taking a string from end to end of the track bar/drag link and comparing the angles that way.

My track bar bracket has holes for a 3.5” or +4” lift and I’ve noticed there is a difference in handling. So with that being said instead of the string couldn’t you just use an angle finder? And why does there seem to be no right answer to this?
 
I’ve been reading a ton on this topic with some saying both need to be parallel to each other and others stating they should be as horizontal as possible. I’ve even called companies asking what angles they should be for proper geometry but I never seem to get a definitive answer. Closest I can find is taking a string from end to end of the track bar/drag link and comparing the angles that way.

My track bar bracket has holes for a 3.5” or +4” lift and I’ve noticed there is a difference in handling. So with that being said instead of the string couldn’t you just use an angle finder? And why does there seem to be no right answer to this?
The definitely need to be parallel to prevent bump steer. I believe that factory is pretty close to horizontal to the floor, and in a perfect world you'd be shooting for both. Of the two, parallel to each other is more important.

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Build Thread - Adventures of Fiona - https://wayalife.com/showthread.php?t=47407
 
I’ve been reading a ton on this topic with some saying both need to be parallel to each other and others stating they should be as horizontal as possible. I’ve even called companies asking what angles they should be for proper geometry but I never seem to get a definitive answer. Closest I can find is taking a string from end to end of the track bar/drag link and comparing the angles that way.

My track bar bracket has holes for a 3.5” or +4” lift and I’ve noticed there is a difference in handling. So with that being said instead of the string couldn’t you just use an angle finder? And why does there seem to be no right answer to this?

See this thread: https://wayalife.com/showthread.php/42462-Wrangler-JK-Steering
Same concept as the string, but instead, use a camera then draw lines on the computer. It's just a little quicker.
Once the Jeep is lifted, it's near impossible to get the drag link and track bar parallel with the ground again, but a flipped drag link and raised track bar gets you pretty damn close. There's no set angle that needs to be achieved with a number. Ideally you want the drag link and track bar parallel with each other.
What symptom are you having?
 
That’s a cool idea about drawing the lines. My symptoms are the steering wheel wobbles back and forth then goes away a couple seconds later when going over an off camber bump around 55mph like say a diagonal railroad track or bridge. If the bump is straight on like a small speed bump or something that hits both front tires at the same time then no issues. It’s the angle and that speed that makes the difference.

I troubleshot a steering wheel vibration for the longest time in that same mph range so I replaced a crap ton of stuff and have had Satan himself look at the front end so I never worried about the steering wheel wobble but now that’s next on the list. I have a drag link flip, adj track bar and relocation bracket but what was odd was when I raised the track bar from the 3.5” hole to the +4” hole the steering wheel wobble got worse even though the drag link and track bar appeared more parallel. I have no bump steer or DW so I can let the steering wheel go and hit bumps like that with no hands and be fine. Maybe it’s cause the tires are still a little out of balance at the speed?
 
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That’s a cool idea about drawing the lines. My symptoms are the steering wheel wobbles back and forth when going over an off camber bump around 55mph like say a diagonal railroad track or bridge. If the bump is straight on like a small speed bump or something that hits both front tires at the same time then no issues. It’s the angle and that speed that makes the difference.

I troubleshot a steering wheel vibration for the longest time in that same mph range so I replaced a crap ton of stuff and have had Satan himself look at the front end so I never worried about the steering wheel wobble but now that’s next on the list. I have a drag link flip, adj track bar and relocation bracket but what was odd was when I raised the track bar from the 3.5” hole to the +4” hole the steering wheel wobble got worse even though the drag link and track bar appeared more parallel. I have no bump steer or DW so I can let the steering wheel go and hit bumps like that with no hands and be fine. Maybe it’s cause the tires are still a little out of balance at the speed?

Almost sounds like you might be on the verge of death wobble. Bump steer normally will occur when you hit a bump and the steering wheel will jerk one way about 30-40 degrees, but won't go back and forth.

Ensure your track bar bolts are tightened to 125 ft lbs and that the bracket holes aren't wollowed out. Have you checked the ball joints for play?
 
Yeah the track bar is new and torqued appropriately, same with the relocation bracket and drag link. Even torqued the front lower control arms just cause. Ball joints and wheel bearings have been checked by multiple people and even had the axle checked for bends along with an alignment. Jeep only has 16K miles so holes don’t seem to have had a chance to work themselves out. That’s kind of the problem though, I’ve been around the block with all of this so I’m thinking about the track bar/drag link angles.
 
Do you have any pics from straight on? I was in a place you are a couple summers ago, I was so pissed I almost sold mine. I finally changed the ball joints (at under 14000 miles) and it was good as new


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Yeah the bumper is in the way unfortunately so to get a picture of the whole thing I would have to be on the ground starring up which will distort it. Best I can do for the track bar/drag link is this one.
 

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Yeah the bumper is in the way unfortunately so to get a picture of the whole thing I would have to be on the ground starring up which will distort it. Best I can do for the track bar/drag link is this one.

Try to take a pic a little from the side so we can see both the track bar and drag link. Like this one:

DSC04659.jpg
 
Your angles look near perfect. If the Jeep drives better with the lower hole, leave it. I really think there's something loose somewhere that's causing the symptom.

Drag link nut where it meets pitman arm is tight? And any adjustment bolts on drag link or track bar are tight?
 
Your angles look near perfect. If the Jeep drives better with the lower hole, leave it. I really think there's something loose somewhere that's causing the symptom.

Drag link nut where it meets pitman arm is tight? And any adjustment bolts on drag link or track bar are tight?
Just double checked everything while I was taking photos and it’s torqued to spec with no play. Adjustment sleeves call for 40ft lbs but I blasted them with the impact so it’s way more than that. Only thing I haven’t replaced is the tie rod but it’s within spec as well and the only reason I bought aftermarket was to fix this issue which didn’t work so I could have kept everything stock. The Jeep you can barely see next to mine has a very similar setup and drives great, I actually have “fancier” parts then him. I’m gonna swap the front wheels/tires this weekend to rule that out but I’ve been comparing the two side by side and find no differences. His is a 2011 and mine is a 2016.
 
What trackbar bracket is that?
Is there a u-bolt or is it welded on?
I had similar symptoms, trackbar was torqued and had no play, but the bracket itself was moving.
 
What trackbar bracket is that?
Is there a u-bolt or is it welded on?
I had similar symptoms, trackbar was torqued and had no play, but the bracket itself was moving.
A Steersmarts woth u bolt. I still had all the same symptoms with the OEM parts so all the aftermarket stuff I bought in an effort to troubleshoot this was basically a waste IMO.
 
A Steersmarts woth u bolt. I still had all the same symptoms with the OEM parts so all the aftermarket stuff I bought in an effort to troubleshoot this was basically a waste IMO.

Possibly ball joints or unit bearings. As mentioned everything looks good. Do you have adjustable lower control arms?
 
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