Tow rigs

My dad tows his 42' fifth wheel which is north of 17k lb no problems with his 2015 F350 SRW completely stock. Bumper tow up 12k on it would be no problem. Up to Moab in the wind and bumpy roads it towed smooth and straight. I wouldn't go DRW if you are under 18k lb. I would recommend a gooseneck if you didn't want a camper in the bed just cause it pulls a little smoother.
 
TrainWreck618 said:
I really like your truck, I wish I had a need for a dually. Thanks for sharing, and I totally agree with getting 4wd. There is a place I frequent that I'm not sure how you would leave if you had to pull out in 2wd..
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Appreciate it and I never needed a dual at first when I had my old truck but I have to say once I had it I didnt want to go back.

2nd.gunman said:
Man that is a nice looking truck. Other than drinking DEF. what's your thoughts on it? They're pretty rare over here but I'm looking at one to tow the bigger boats at work.
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Other then that Im really happy with it. I have almost 8500 miles on it now. I will say the mpg was pretty pitiful before it was deleted also. Its a bit better now but much more reasonable. I also opted for the 4.10 gears instead of the 3.73s so im sure there is part of the reason its not necessarily the greatest but with plans to be getting a 35-40ft gooseneck and looking a bit over 20k pounds figured it be nice to have.
 
Grubbicon said:
Other then that Im really happy with it. I have almost 8500 miles on it now. I will say the mpg was pretty pitiful before it was deleted also. Its a bit better now but much more reasonable. I also opted for the 4.10 gears instead of the 3.73s so im sure there is part of the reason its not necessarily the greatest but with plans to be getting a 35-40ft gooseneck and looking a bit over 20k pounds figured it be nice to have.
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Good to hear.
 
I use a 2015 RAM 2500 diesel with a hydraulic trailer. Can run 80 all day without knowing that Jeep is back there. With a lot of the newer trucks you can get rear coils vs leafs. That's what I did and it rides like a car. But I would def get 4wd like others have mentioned.
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FastZach said:
My dad tows his 42' fifth wheel which is north of 17k lb no problems with his 2015 F350 SRW completely stock. Bumper tow up 12k on it would be no problem. Up to Moab in the wind and bumpy roads it towed smooth and straight. I wouldn't go DRW if you are under 18k lb. I would recommend a gooseneck if you didn't want a camper in the bed just cause it pulls a little smoother.
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That's the big argument.. Do I want a camper or not?

I want one yes, but I have a lot of other things that need to happen before that. I think the best move is to pick up a 20-22' gooseneck and trade it in down the road when I'm ready to buy a camper. Trailers hold there value really well, so I shouldn't loose too much if I end up needing a larger trailer to accommodate a camper. I don't want to buy a bigger trailer than I need and never use it
 
TrainWreck618 said:
That's the big argument.. Do I want a camper or not?

I want one yes, but I have a lot of other things that need to happen before that. I think the best move is to pick up a 20-22' gooseneck and trade it in down the road when I'm ready to buy a camper. Trailers hold there value really well, so I shouldn't loose too much if I end up needing a larger trailer to accommodate a camper. I don't want to buy a bigger trailer than I need and never use it
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I would go that route too. It is amazing how much smoother a 5th wheel/gooseneck pulls than a bumper tow. You could always get longer goose down the road to put a camper on it.
 
Half ton for life. I use a wore out 97 f-150 with 184k on the clock and a 18ft 3.5 ton big tex. I use weight distribution bars and keep the trailer brakes adjusted up. No problems tuggin it around the mountains of wv.



3/4 and one ton trucks are overkill anymore a new f-150 with the ecoboost 6 cyl can tow around 12k which is plenty to tote a jeep around. Doesn't need def, doesn't need fuel filters every other oil change, hell the oil change wont run you 100 bucks like a diesel. Gas is cheaper than diesel fuel, and a half ton is more comfortable to drive on a daily basis than a 3/4 or one ton.

Im not sayin to buy a janky ol half ton like i have, i run what i can afford. Im just saying dont overlook a half ton if youre in the market for a tow pig.
 
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holliewood61 said:
Half ton for life. I use a wore out 97 f-150 with 184k on the clock and a 18ft 3.5 ton big tex. I use weight distribution bars and keep the trailer brakes adjusted up. No problems tuggin it around the mountains of wv.



3/4 and one ton trucks are overkill anymore a new f-150 with the ecoboost 6 cyl can tow around 12k which is plenty to tote a jeep around. Doesn't need def, doesn't need fuel filters every other oil change, hell the oil change wont run you 100 bucks like a diesel. Gas is cheaper than diesel fuel, and a half ton is more comfortable to drive on a daily basis than a 3/4 or one ton.

Im not sayin to buy a janky ol half ton like i have, i run what i can afford. Im just saying dont overlook a half ton if youre in the market for a tow pig.
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I could definitely get a half ton setup a lot cheaper. It is something to consider, and the only reason I'm considering a diesel 3/4 is because the constant hauling I do and the 20,000+ miles a year I drive. Plus if I upgrade to a 30' gooseneck and camper I will have no issue pulling it. Decisions decision, thanks for your input
 
TrainWreck618 said:
I could definitely get a half ton setup a lot cheaper. It is something to consider, and the only reason I'm considering a diesel 3/4 is because the constant hauling I do and the 20,000+ miles a year I drive. Plus if I upgrade to a 30' gooseneck and camper I will have no issue pulling it. Decisions decision, thanks for your input
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If your towing constantly, a half ton won't be cheaper. Depending on what your towing, you will beat that half ton up. You'll probably eat transmissions. You'll possibly have cooling issues, specially running the ac and pulling a load in the summer. You'll wear out suspension. Etc. A 3/4 or one ton will cost you more initially but will probably last longer hooked to a trailer all the time. Specially a diesel. The diesel will also cost you more initially, and to maintain, and to fix, but damn it's night and day difference with a trailer.

We had a 30 foot bumper pull camper a few years ago. When we got the camper we had a half ton Chevy 4x4 with the 6.2 in it. The truck pulled the camper fine as far as pulling power. But even pulling power you could tell it was back there. It also squatted the truck pretty good and even with the stabilizer hitch it liked to push the half ton around. I quickly sold it for a 3/4 ton dodge diesel 4x4 with the 6 speed standard. Holy hell, what a night and day difference. Now it's apples to oranges but the camper was practically not even there behind that truck. I could run 80 pulling that camper and get 20-22 miles to the gallon doing it. The best I got out of the gas was about 8 while pulling the camper.

If you ever get a diesel and for whatever reason get rid of it, it sucks. You will always want another.
 
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I flat tow my jeep behind my 35' diesel pusher. I would like to trailer it but find it difficult to park a trailer and the jeep where I go some of the time.
 
Grubbicon said:
I have a 2016 dodge 3500 and 20ft dual axle all steel trailer with hydraulic bed. Last time I ran it across a CAT scale with my JK on it it came out to 8600. Granted now after 1 ton swap im sure it will be more at least 9 range. I run 80 all day long pulling it and literally truck doesnt even know its back there. I ended up deleting and tuning the truck and I have to say one thing about before was that it DRANKKKK DEF it was pitiful. From Atlanta GA to Daytona FL and back it used a full tank. Coming from a 1996 dodge 3500 that was super annoying.

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EDIT: I think its worth mentioning that I wouldnt consider a truck that is not 4wd. There is a few places we go wheeling that require 4wd to get to the parking lot because its a long steep gravel hill. Also times ground is wet enough have to use it.
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I just got a '16 2500 Ram with the Cummins also, coil springs in the rear, rides great. Mine came with 3:42 gears though, but it came with the factory gooseneck or fifth wheel bed mounting and wiring. I love it so far. Are you following your dash for oil changes? The manual says 15k between changes. What do you mean by deleted?
 
JKbrick said:
I just got a '16 2500 Ram with the Cummins also, coil springs in the rear, rides great. Mine came with 3:42 gears though, but it came with the factory gooseneck or fifth wheel bed mounting and wiring. I love it so far. Are you following your dash for oil changes? The manual says 15k between changes. What do you mean by deleted?
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I plan to change it soon since its the first change do it a little soon just for piece of mind. After that since they say 15k miles Ill probably just go with it. I have deleted (or no longer have) EGR valve, EGR cooler (worth noting I have Sinister Diesel EGR valve and cooler delete and according to them my truck is the first 2016 they knew of to use there delete at the time. They may gave changed it since but took some modify to make it work), DEF, and DPF. To do the deletes you have to use the Bully Dog unlock kit but then after that my truck has Kory Willis Tuned EFI Live. If you are deleting it has to be a "race tuner" since deletes are considered illegal but places where there is no diesel emissions it doesnt matter. With that my truck also has a 5" straight pipe from the turbo back. Bigger the exhaust help keep the EGTs down but obviously if its stock or close to it EGT isnt really a concern. After all that I have i should have gained 130-150hp not that it really needed it. Just worth noting if you do delete your truck it will then smoke wont be "clean" burning so tree huggers will hate you lol.

Ive never rode in the new 2500s with the coil in the rear im sure it rides amazing. My truck also has the 5th wheel placement and wiring in the bed from factory. The 3500 are still leaf in the rear and mine also has factory airbags in the back.

Here is a shot of the exhaust that looks like to a rocket scientist to design
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EGR valve block off plate (driver side of the motor)
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Here is where the EGR cooler was (passenger side of the motor)
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Grubbicon said:
I plan to change it soon since its the first change do it a little soon just for piece of mind. After that since they say 15k miles Ill probably just go with it. I have deleted (or no longer have) EGR valve, EGR cooler (worth noting I have Sinister Diesel EGR valve and cooler delete and according to them my truck is the first 2016 they knew of to use there delete at the time. They may gave changed it since but took some modify to make it work), DEF, and DPF. To do the deletes you have to use the Bully Dog unlock kit but then after that my truck has Kory Willis Tuned EFI Live. If you are deleting it has to be a "race tuner" since deletes are considered illegal but places where there is no diesel emissions it doesnt matter. With that my truck also has a 5" straight pipe from the turbo back. Bigger the exhaust help keep the EGTs down but obviously if its stock or close to it EGT isnt really a concern. After all that I have i should have gained 130-150hp not that it really needed it. Just worth noting if you do delete your truck it will then smoke wont be "clean" burning so tree huggers will hate you lol.

Ive never rode in the new 2500s with the coil in the rear im sure it rides amazing. My truck also has the 5th wheel placement and wiring in the bed from factory. The 3500 are still leaf in the rear and mine also has factory airbags in the back.

Here is a shot of the exhaust that looks like to a rocket scientist to design


EGR valve block off plate (driver side of the motor)


Here is where the EGR cooler was (passenger side of the motor)


Goodness thats a bunch more power, your torque must be well over 1000 I'm sure. Definitely should pull your jeep with ease.
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Grubbicon said:
TrainWreck618 said:
I would say it is but I have nothing to back it up. My guess is around 500hp and 1000ftlbs. Maybe one day Ill stick it on a dyno for shits and giggles. I believe stock is supposed to be like 365hp and 900ftlbs.
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I think the cab and chassis have a different transmission and a lot more hp and torque from the factory, it looked like there are 3 motors to choose from. I'm not sure which one your dually would be. Thank you for the info and pics
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JKbrick said:
Grubbicon said:
I think the cab and chassis have a different transmission and a lot more hp and torque from the factory, it looked like there are 3 motors to choose from. I'm not sure which one your dually would be. Thank you for the info and pics
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Mine is the 6.7 cummins and the Aisin transmission. Mine the standard pickup not the cab and chassis. Im sure its the same motor and trans as yours but could be wrong.
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I had an 07.5 with the 6.7 and withe the deletes it was supposed to be 600bhp and 1200+ ft lbs. I never put it on a dyno either so I don't know for sure but it's at least an idea of where you might be.

OP get a goose neck and a diesel and never look back. During hay season we have grossed 60-70k on non duallies. They knew they were loaded down but they moved it no problem. If I was going to tow my jeep it's the only way I would do it.
 
When I was looking I was going to get the 6.4 hemi 2500. Drove the hemi and then the 6.7 Cummings back to back. The diesel was so much stronger than the gas. I have the gooseneck set up with wiring as well, but got a great deal on a custom hydraulic trailer.

Grubbicon-the rear coils are amazing. Makes it drive more like a car vs a big truck.
 
bsimon187 said:
When I was looking I was going to get the 6.4 hemi 2500. Drove the hemi and then the 6.7 Cummings back to back. The diesel was so much stronger than the gas. I have the gooseneck set up with wiring as well, but got a great deal on a custom hydraulic trailer.

Grubbicon-the rear coils are amazing. Makes it drive more like a car vs a big truck.
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How is the sag under load with the coils?
 
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