Tow rigs

Remember, axle ratings on single rear wheel is #7000. That is on a '16 F-350

Yes, with the right tires and skill driving, you can go higher, BUT, once the ratings are exceeded, you are at risk legally, and most insurance will not cover the problem.

When I was younger, I routinely hauled over the ratings on nearly everything I have owned, but I am older and I hope wiser now, so I don't admit to doing things like that anymore.😉

I'm just throwing it out there as a reminder of the risks when things go wrong.

Also, on the tire capacity, if you are within about 20% of the ratings, you are pushing it. Once near capacity, tires will start to sway and cause real problems, and speed makes it worse.
If you are pushing the limit, slow down, and make frequent stops to check tire and bearing temperatures.

Stay safe👍
 
jdofmemi said:
Remember, axle ratings on single rear wheel is #7000. That is on a '16 F-350
Click to expand...

Yep. Same on my 16 Ram 3500.

It can be a problem when hauling a camper and towing a bumper pull trailer. Even with EQ bars on the trailer I am at 8000# on the rear axle.

My next truck will be a DRW just for the peace of mind on long trips.
 
jdofmemi said:
Remember, axle ratings on single rear wheel is #7000. That is on a '16 F-350

Yes, with the right tires and skill driving, you can go higher, BUT, once the ratings are exceeded, you are at risk legally, and most insurance will not cover the problem.

When I was younger, I routinely hauled over the ratings on nearly everything I have owned, but I am older and I hope wiser now, so I don't admit to doing things like that anymore.[emoji6]

I'm just throwing it out there as a reminder of the risks when things go wrong.

Also, on the tire capacity, if you are within about 20% of the ratings, you are pushing it. Once near capacity, tires will start to sway and cause real problems, and speed makes it worse.
If you are pushing the limit, slow down, and make frequent stops to check tire and bearing temperatures.

Stay safe[emoji106]
Click to expand...

Thank you! Yes, the 18’ Ram is the same. From your experience, is there an approximate ratio you use for tongue weight running a gooseneck or does it all depend on the trailer and how the load is distributed?


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I mostly try to load based on the axle weight, as long as I can.

Load the drive axle, but not overload it.
 
Numbers for the new 2019 Ram 3500 came out today...

400 HP and 1000 TQ. 7,630# payload and 35,100# towing capacity!

That should do it!
 
2012 Ram 3500

Gooseneck is 25' with 9' camper on it.
The other is a 22', don't hardly use this for the Jeep anymore.




 
maskale said:
2012 Ram 3500

Gooseneck is 25' with 9' camper on it.
The other is a 22', don't hardly use this for the Jeep anymore.

Click to expand...

Nice! I would like to see more picture of how you mounted the camper! I have been interested in doing this for a while now.
 
jdofmemi said:
They came a long way. I had a 95 and it was rated at 160/400 and it was the king of the road at the time
Click to expand...

Yep. I have had a 94, 97, 03, 07 and now a 16.

Each time the technology just keeps getting better.

My 16 is the first truck that I didn't feel the need to modify. All the others had 400-850 HP and 700-1800 Ft/lbs torque.

I imagine the 19's will be even better.
 
bhaner said:
Nice! I would like to see more picture of how you mounted the camper! I have been interested in doing this for a while now.
Click to expand...

I put a mini torque tube under the camper because goosenecks flex. Welded chains to cross members and then hooked turnbuckles to camper and down to the chains, also used spring cans on all corners. Four angle iron guides keep it from moving left to right. There are rubber bump stops on neck of trailer, the tie downs are pulling forward so camper stays pressed against those bump stops. Thousands of miles and the camper has never moved.

IMG-9266.jpg


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