Those who have changed their own automatic transmission fluid. W5A580 (722.6)

wv14jk

wv14jk

New member
Going to drain, change filter and tig a drain plug in both of our JKU's this weekend.

Have see various write ups but none mention how much fluid to have on hand.

I understand to just replace what comes out minus a couple of quarts and go slowly until full.

I just wanted to have an idea of how much to have on hand so I don't need to go back in for a couple of quarts.


On a side note, already did the transfer and diffs and what a pleasure to have a drain plug on the diffs.:thumb:

Pull the fill, pull the drain, jack up a little to get it all out and viola! done in 20 minutes and no mess.

Thanks for any advice.
 
It’s about 5 qts when you do a fluid and filter change. The whole system holds about seven but the torque converter holds about 2 quarts. When you refill make sure your on level ground, put about 4 quarts in then let the engine run. The trans needs to be at operating temp to get a proper level reading. Once at temp do what’s called a “garage shift”. Go from park to reverse, stay in gear for about 3 seconds, then back to park. Work your way down the shifter returning to park after each gear. This will make sure fluid makes it to all the proper spots before you attempt to drive the jeep. After this takes place check the level. You may need to add the 5th qt of fluid. Then you should be good to go
 
Just get 2 gallons (8 quarts) per vehicle to be safe. O'Reilly's has atf4 for a fair price by the gallon, it still isn't cheap. And you will need a long narrow funnel that fits in your dipstick tube for refilling.
 
cozdude said:
It’s about 5 qts when you do a fluid and filter change. The whole system holds about seven but the torque converter holds about 2 quarts. When you refill make sure your on level ground, put about 4 quarts in then let the engine run. The trans needs to be at operating temp to get a proper level reading. Once at temp do what’s called a “garage shift”. Go from park to reverse, stay in gear for about 3 seconds, then back to park. Work your way down the shifter returning to park after each gear. This will make sure fluid makes it to all the proper spots before you attempt to drive the jeep. After this takes place check the level. You may need to add the 5th qt of fluid. Then you should be good to go
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Thanks much.

I plan on doing that, then driving a few miles and draining through the plug one more time.

In order to help flush some of the fluid I could not get with the initial drain.

Probably overkill but worth the 20ish dollars for my peace of mind.
 
wv14jk said:
Thanks much.

I plan on doing that, then driving a few miles and draining through the plug one more time.

In order to help flush some of the fluid I could not get with the initial drain.

Probably overkill but worth the 20ish dollars for my peace of mind.
Click to expand...

What year and how many miles are on your jeep?
 
cozdude said:
What year and how many miles are on your jeep?
Click to expand...

22k on the 2014.

50k on the 2015.

I realize I am below the interval to change but I believe the first change is the most important and have read on several Mercedes sites that they recommend the first change at 35k mile for the same trans in their street cars.

The fluid in the 2015 already has a slight brownish tint to the red fluid on a clean paper towel.

I have a shop that my son and I use to make some cash on the side so it will be an easy afternoon or after work job.

So, to clarify, I realize it's too early according to Mother Mopar but it will make a nice Saturday afternoon job with my son while we listen to football on the radio.
 
I don't remember the quantity but I put just punched a hole in the pan and drained than used a PML pan with drain plug.
 
wv14jk said:
22k on the 2014.

50k on the 2015.

I realize I am below the interval to change but I believe the first change is the most important and have read on several Mercedes sites that they recommend the first change at 35k mile for the same trans in their street cars.

The fluid in the 2015 already has a slight brownish tint to the red fluid on a clean paper towel.

I have a shop that my son and I use to make some cash on the side so it will be an easy afternoon or after work job.

So, to clarify, I realize it's too early according to Mother Mopar but it will make a nice Saturday afternoon job with my son while we listen to football on the radio.
Click to expand...

Lol it’s not to early. I did mine at 40k miles.

I honestly wouldn’t worry about doing the change then driving and changing again. Your not going to get enough out of it to warrant it. If your set on doing it though do it after 1k miles. This will help make sure all the fluid has circulated and tried to pick up as much as the old fluid as possible still left
 
cozdude said:
Lol it’s not to early. I did mine at 40k miles.

I honestly wouldn’t worry about doing the change then driving and changing again. Your not going to get enough out of it to warrant it. If your set on doing it though do it after 1k miles. This will help make sure all the fluid has circulated and tried to pick up as much as the old fluid as possible still left
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Agree 100%

But if I wait that long I fear my motivation may be the problem:bored01:

Probably won't worry in the 2014 as the fluid looks brand new.

And will look at the fluid, filter and magnet in the 2015.

It is the one I am most concerned with as the fluid has that slight brown tint.

If it looks good in the pan I may not.
 
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Another good way to get all the old stuff out is to drop the pan, change the filter. Then unbolt the cooler line that runs to the radiator, out it over a bucket and run the Jeep in park while adding fresh fluid in. I do this until I have about a quart of clean come through the cooler hose. Then I shut off the Jeep, torque it back up and check level again. I also like to add some Lucas oil stop slip as a precaution. It's a little messier but it's the best way to do a proper flush.

Sent from my Life One X2 using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
Strodinator said:
Another good way to get all the old stuff out is to drop the pan, change the filter. Then unbolt the cooler line that runs to the radiator, out it over a bucket and run the Jeep in park while adding fresh fluid in. I do this until I have about a quart of clean come through the cooler hose. Then I shut off the Jeep, torque it back up and check level again. I also like to add some Lucas oil stop slip as a precaution. It's a little messier but it's the best way to do a proper flush.

Sent from my Life One X2 using WAYALIFE mobile app
Click to expand...

Now you tell me ...:thumb:
 
Just changed mine out today. Took about 4 quarts to fill it back up after dropping the pan and changing out the filter. Had to unbolt the exhaust crossover to get enough clearance for the pan to clear the filter easily. Also in order to access two of the bolts on the pan I had to unbolt the transmission from the crossmember and lift it an inch with the floor jack. If you have EVO skids you have to unbolt and lift anyways. You may be able to do it without unbolting anything but it made it easier for sure.
 
Some thoughts and observations now that they are both done.

Cut the four exhaust bolts and let it drop. (2 minute job)

If you have an air chisel, put in a blunt tip and it will knock the rusty nuts out. (2 minute job per jeep, and I did 8 of them total)

Replace with 3/8" x 2" stainless bolts with distorted thread lock nuts. (10 minute job that will make it easy to put in exhaust spacers on the future):brows:

To answer the original question for me starting this thread:

I had to put 4.5 quarts in after pulling the pan and filter.

And roughly 3.5 quarts (5 quarts in the 2015?) after just pulling the new drain and letting it drain overnight.

Now for the problems particular to my two new to me rides.

First one took about 3 easy hours, taking my time and learning as I went. That was the 2014 with 20k miles. Fluid was bright red but the magnet was surprisingly fuzzy.

Second one (2015 with 50k miles, fluid was red with some brown starting to show) took about 6 hours.

Some of which was a NAPA and lunch trip.

All the pan bolts on the driver side were seized into the spacers??? :gaah:

Passenger side came out ez pz. to get the drivers out I broke the heads off the bolts. Drilled the bolt out about a 1/4 inch up into the spacer, then gently wiggled them with vice grips and kroil.

Went ahead and replaced them with some napa bolts and everything went back in perfect.

Had to pull the trans crossmember to get to the drivers rear most pan bolt. (only because it was one of the ones that had seized to the spacer, on the first one I just used a low clearance T30)


2015 probably needed changed at about 35k instead of 50k by the color of the fluid.

2014 probably could have waited until about 35 instead of 20k as the fluid was bright pink.


So ... flushed them both using the new drain plugs.

Fluid in both is bright, clean pink.


Next change will be an easy 2 hour job with the new drains and stainless exhaust bolts.


Total cost per Jeep was about 60$ without flush. Filter and gasket from napa were $17.50. 5 quarts atf4 were 25$. And the stainless bolts, washers and nuts were about 15$ from Quality Farm.

Flush afterwards was about 20$ for 4 quarts atf4. For my peace of mind.

And the six metric bolts for the pan were free from NAPA.
 
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wv14jk said:
Some thoughts and observations now that they are both done.

Cut the four exhaust bolts and let it drop. (2 minute job)

If you have an air chisel, put in a blunt tip and it will knock the rusty nuts out. (2 minute job per jeep, and I did 8 of them total)

Replace with 3/8" x 2" stainless bolts with distorted thread lock nuts. (10 minute job that will make it easy to put in exhaust spacers on the future):brows:

To answer the original question for me starting this thread:

I had to put 4.5 quarts in after pulling the pan and filter.

And roughly 3.5 quarts after just pulling the new drain and letting it drain overnight.

Now for the problems particular to my two new to me rides.

First one took about 3 easy hours, taking my time and learning as I went. That was the 2014 with 20k miles. Fluid was bright red but the magnet was surprisingly fuzzy.

Second one (2015 with 50k miles, fluid was red with some brown starting to show) took about 6 hours.

Some of which was a NAPA and lunch trip.

All the pan bolts on the driver side were seized into the spacers??? :gaah:

Passenger side came out ez pz. to get the drivers out I broke the heads off the bolts. Drilled the bolt out about a 1/4 inch up into the spacer, then gently wiggled them with vice grips and kroil.

Went ahead and replaced them with some napa bolts and everything went back in perfect.

Had to pull the trans crossmember to get to the drivers rear most pan bolt.


2015 probably needed changed at about 35k instead of 50k by the color of the fluid.

2014 probably could have waited until about 35 instead of 20k as the fluid was bright pink.


So ... flushed them both using the new drain plugs.

Fluid in both is bright, clean pink.


Next change will be an easy 2 hour job with the new drains and stainless exhaust bolts.


Total cost per Jeep was about 60$ without flush. Filter and gasket from napa were $17.50. 5 quarts atf4 were 25$. And the stainless bolts, washers and nuts were about 15$ from Quality Farm.

Flush afterwards was about 20$ for 4 quarts atf4. For my peace of mind.

And the six metric bolts for the pan were free from NAPA.
Click to expand...

Thanks for posting this up. Could be very helpful down the road.


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
One more observation and then I will quit pestering you guys ...

On the 2015 the overnight drain resulted in 5 quarts in the pan, as opposed to 3.5 in the 2014?

Here is the final dipstick wipe on the 2015 with 50k miles. It was the one that the original fluid was red with a brownish tint.


TBzT1zv.jpg

:drinks:
 
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