The "Mid Life" buy thread
- Thread starter branman
- Start date
VictoryUSA
New member
Crisis over... you now have all that you need... (oh, except for that ongoing nagging craving for new mods! lol)
Congrats on the nice build !!
I have the same EVO Enforcer 4 inch lift on my 2013 Wrangler too. I did the install myself about a month ago and spent a fair amount of time making sure during maximum articulation of the suspension that there was no rubbing between the tires and Wrangler body parts (i.e. installed all the lift parts without the springs and then moved the axles with 2 floor jacks).. My set-up is with 35 inch Toyo MT's and wheels that have 4.63 inches of backspacing with factory stock fenders.
I would like to provide a few comments for you to consider (and I faced these issues last month).
1) I will pretty much guarantee you that during full articulation that you will have serious tire to fender contact (both front and rear). My set-up just barely cleared the stock fenders (by less than 1/16 of an inch). You have 1 inch larger tires on the radius and your wheels push your tires out about 1 inch further due to backspacing. So they will make contact with the fenders under large amounts of suspension articulation.
2) Your front bumper has to go due to tire contact during suspension articulation and the steering of the vehicle (you already have this planned so this is almost an irrelevant comment).
The next several tips were provided to me by forum member MTG originally and sure enough the issues were verified during my articulation tests.
3) Check your evaporative canister skid plate. You will need to move this over to prevent contact with the rear drive shaft during suspension articulation (or else you will rip the rubber boot on the driveshaft)
4) Pay attention to the rear metal brake lines as they run along the frame. Under maximum rear suspension articulation, it is possible for the bolt on the upper rear sway bar link to snag the brake line. I raised the lines up by 1.5 inches with a bracket while others have relocated the brakes lines to the top of the frame.
So the above comments apply only during the dynamics of using the Wrangler during off road trips. It should work fine driving "on road". If you just raise and lower the axles parallel to the ground, every thing may appear to function properly. Its when one side raises up and the other drops down by large amounts that the above issues will appear.
Have fun with your build going forward. Hope the above might help you. I have sure learned a lot over the last several months installing all the aftermarket goodies. If not for this forum and input by the forum members, I would have missed a number critical steps that need to be taken.
Regards,
Alan
I have the same EVO Enforcer 4 inch lift on my 2013 Wrangler too. I did the install myself about a month ago and spent a fair amount of time making sure during maximum articulation of the suspension that there was no rubbing between the tires and Wrangler body parts (i.e. installed all the lift parts without the springs and then moved the axles with 2 floor jacks).. My set-up is with 35 inch Toyo MT's and wheels that have 4.63 inches of backspacing with factory stock fenders.
I would like to provide a few comments for you to consider (and I faced these issues last month).
1) I will pretty much guarantee you that during full articulation that you will have serious tire to fender contact (both front and rear). My set-up just barely cleared the stock fenders (by less than 1/16 of an inch). You have 1 inch larger tires on the radius and your wheels push your tires out about 1 inch further due to backspacing. So they will make contact with the fenders under large amounts of suspension articulation.
2) Your front bumper has to go due to tire contact during suspension articulation and the steering of the vehicle (you already have this planned so this is almost an irrelevant comment).
The next several tips were provided to me by forum member MTG originally and sure enough the issues were verified during my articulation tests.
3) Check your evaporative canister skid plate. You will need to move this over to prevent contact with the rear drive shaft during suspension articulation (or else you will rip the rubber boot on the driveshaft)
4) Pay attention to the rear metal brake lines as they run along the frame. Under maximum rear suspension articulation, it is possible for the bolt on the upper rear sway bar link to snag the brake line. I raised the lines up by 1.5 inches with a bracket while others have relocated the brakes lines to the top of the frame.
So the above comments apply only during the dynamics of using the Wrangler during off road trips. It should work fine driving "on road". If you just raise and lower the axles parallel to the ground, every thing may appear to function properly. Its when one side raises up and the other drops down by large amounts that the above issues will appear.
Have fun with your build going forward. Hope the above might help you. I have sure learned a lot over the last several months installing all the aftermarket goodies. If not for this forum and input by the forum members, I would have missed a number critical steps that need to be taken.
Regards,
Alan
Last edited:
gleno99
Member
I'm guessing this applies to the enforcer 3" also? I'm hopefully getting it thus summer! Thanks.
The only HW difference I can see between the 3 or 4 inch EVO Enforcer lift is in the springs, the bump stops chosen and the shocks used. At the top level, the springs set the static height of the Jeep, which does not come into the above discussions. The max up travel is set by the bump stops and the max down travel is set by the length of the shocks. My set-up has 3 inch bump stops front and rear. My shocks have approximately 27.5 inches of extended length. So as long as the set-up you plan on using is essentially the same, your guess is absolutely correct.
gleno99
Member
Thanks. I appreciate the info.
branman
-
I have only run 2 tanks through. Manual Calculation on mixed around town / crowded Freeway i show 16.4 The computer showed 16.4 when I looked last. The lowest I have scene the computer was 15.6. The computer seems very close every time I've compared so we will see what it says after 5 tanks for a good average.
Stock was mid 18's traveling and low 17's with the mixture of around town / Socal freeway so basically lost 1.5 - 2.0 mpg with the 37's
gleno99
Member
16.5 is about what I get with my stock 32s and 4:10 gears. Maybe I should just regear to 5:13 and go to 37 instead of 35s on stock gears!?!? To many choices. Thanks for the info.
liljohn850
New member
In recent news, I need a 2012+ white JKUR :clap2: and I know exactly what I'm doing next....
SIXTEEN!?!?! I'm burning my 11 JKU to the ground! :yup: on 35's and stock gearing (I know... I know) I'm rocking a solid 14.3 on the "highway" (live in Hawaii.... we don't have highways... like you think) if I rock around town Im looking at 11... shoot me.
Anyways, back to the topic, gorgeous looking jeep!
branman
-
Mid Life....It's my excuse.....
Never really named the Jeep, My GF keeps calling it that! :doh:
branman
-
I have been trying to keep the stock fender look so I thought I would try to find something to stuff the tires on and look for rubbing. Of course I rub my front bumper so I will be chopping it as a quick fix before I get my new one. The front fenders seem to have plenty of room and the rears are pretty tight but no real issues.
Found a tree stump on the side of the road but couldn't get the jeep to stay on the top to check, wheel kept turning then falling off and the log kept rolling away plus it was a 5 foot drop to get out to inspect
Will probably just trim the fenders anyways :rolleyes2:
Found a tree stump on the side of the road but couldn't get the jeep to stay on the top to check, wheel kept turning then falling off and the log kept rolling away plus it was a 5 foot drop to get out to inspect
Will probably just trim the fenders anyways :rolleyes2: