The long and slow build of "................"

BaddestCross said:
I feel you. I picked up all 8 adjustable control arms from another member that are still sitting in my garage. I want to get front and rear driveshafts in hand before I get the regear done so I don't have to deal with torquing the pinions twice.

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Let's throw them on! Honestly I'm glad I regeard before Drive shafts. It was totally worth it. Drives amazing with the 37s. The only reason I'm semi pressed for new Drive shafts if because I may want to throw those 3/4 spacers on. I have plenty of clearance. I just think it would give it a better looking stance instead of so stuffed.

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BaddestCross said:
I've got a couple of pucks you're more than welcome to have. Text me your address and I'll send them up to you. You've already got 2 on there and you're on a 3" lift, right?

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Yea I'm sitting at 3 exactly. Once I get a winch on it may change. If it does I'll have throw the 3/4 coil spacers on and for sure add another puck for bump stop. I still have some minor adjustments to do to set my pinion angle and toe in. I need to take it and get it aligned but I don't trust anyone with the jeep nor do most places around me even know how to align it. I more or less just want the paper they print out to tell me how off or on I am with the alignment. Other then that the jeep is riding good. Tracks a bit but not to bad. All bolts and bushings are tight.

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10abadilla/jk said:
Let's throw them on! Honestly I'm glad I regeard before Drive shafts. It was totally worth it. Drives amazing with the 37s. The only reason I'm semi pressed for new Drive shafts if because I may want to throw those 3/4 spacers on. I have plenty of clearance. I just think it would give it a better looking stance instead of so stuffed.

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Lol. Is that an offer of help? I've got Rock Stars I need to get installed as well. 😎

My front drive shaft really needs replacement. The boot is gone and throwing grease over everything. I already pulled it once to replace the pinion seal and I'm afraid to do it again on new gears at all the warnings I got the first time.

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BaddestCross said:
Lol. Is that an offer of help? I've got Rock Stars I need to get installed as well. 😎

My front drive shaft really needs replacement. The boot is gone and throwing grease over everything. I already pulled it once to replace the pinion seal and I'm afraid to do it again on new gears at all the warnings I got the first time.

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Sure I'll help you out. I'm always up for some good work. So far my drive shafts are good. But I want to replace them When I can. Just in case. Or buy oe replacements to carry with me.

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I got some brighter lights then the led's I had. For some reason the led lights were not bright at all. I found myself riding with my lower pods on because I couldn't see.
20170814_203557.jpg
Before.
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After.
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New lights.
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New lights with bumper pods.
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New lights with bumper pods and A pillar pods.
20170814_210618.jpg
I ended up not using the resistors. The new lights are a little to blue but hey let's see what happens.

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So all my wheels have rock rash. Which is fine. It's almost like a trophy to me. But I have been thinking. Should I grid off all the paint along the edge of the rim so the rock rash blends in more and is less apparent. Or should I just paint the rock rash and call it a day. Or leave it alone for that matter. It's not that it bothers me. Just was thinking out loud. And if grinding the paint off the edge does happen do you think it will give it to much of the fake beadlock look. 20170818_175520.jpg20170818_175512.jpg20170818_175500.jpg20170818_175452.jpg

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The long and slow build of "................"

I say sand the paint off. It'll look good with the recessed parts still black. I'm a big fan of the rock-surfaced look. [emoji106]IMG_9837.jpg

Edit, sent wrong pic... here, [emoji106]IMG_8693.jpg
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Last edited:
JeepJeep75 said:
I say sand the paint off. It'll look good with the recessed parts still black. I'm a big fan of the rock-surfaced look. [emoji106]View attachment 273245

Edit, sent wrong pic... here, [emoji106]View attachment 273246
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I hadn't thought of leaving the recessed parts black. I actually really like that idea. Thank you. I agree with the rock-surfaced look. Tells a story. Keeps the mall crawlers day dreaming.

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So my crown drag link is shot just under a year. Tons of play when sitting mving the steering wheel back and forth. First Sign was wondering while driving. Which made me check the drag link. Knuckle side and pitman arm in the drag link move quite a bit back and forth making a clicking sound on the knuckle side. I'll try and post a video later. All that being said. Is there a drag link you all suggest that I can install just like the oem. Rather then drag link flip.

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The long and slow build of "................"

There is a lot of drag links that can be used flipped or non flipped. You just thread in the tre cartridge from which ever way you want to. I just purchased some Fusion 4x4 links, 7075 aluminum tubes and 2.5TREs. I think Currie ones are like that also
 
VeruGE*144 said:
There is a lot of drag links that can be used flipped or non flipped. You just thread in the tre cartridge from which ever way you want to. I just purchased some Fusion 4x4 links, 7075 aluminum tubes and 2.5TREs. I think Currie ones are like that also
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Ok thank you. I saw the currie ones but wasn't sure if it had to be flipped. I have heard great things about currie. I know at one point a lot of people were installing the synergy 8001. What's the thought on those and can they also be installed without being flipped. I read up on them but it not super clear. Just says will bolt in to factory mounts. And for high steer it needs the insert. Is that pretty much saying yes it's direct bolt in but can also be flipped?

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10abadilla/jk said:
Ok thank you. I saw the currie ones but wasn't sure if it had to be flipped. I have heard great things about currie. I know at one point a lot of people were installing the synergy 8001. What's the thought on those and can they also be installed without being flipped. I read up on them but it not super clear. Just says will bolt in to factory mounts. And for high steer it needs the insert. Is that pretty much saying yes it's direct bolt in but can also be flipped?

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If you flip your draglink you need the insert to properly seat the tre end onto the knuckle. If you don't flip, I don't think you need the insert (not sure). I believe direct bolt on means that the tie rod ends will fit in knuckles and pitman arm.


https://youtu.be/6DaWWmhwlCY
 
If you look at your drag link, you'll notice toward the passenger end, that it is curved. This is for clearance when you turn right.

Any drag link that you buy that is solid at this location (with no adjustable end) must have that same curve going in the same direction. A lot of aftermarket ones have a threaded end down there, so those types work either way, you can run those style below or above the knuckle. So depends on what style you get.

Picture of OEM one and FLIPPED style, curve is in different directions.

download.jpg

evo offroad evolution jk draglink flip kit evo-1071.jpg
 
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