The long and slow build of "................"

I also got the filter and gasket to change the transmission/transfer case fluid on Saturday. I bought it with 36000 miles and the fluid looked new. Not sure if It was changed or not. It now has 55000. Fluid still looks ok. But I know it should be changed every 30000. So thats my project for this weekend. Any tips?

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10abadilla/jk said:
I also got the filter and gasket to change the transmission/transfer case fluid on Saturday. I bought it with 36000 miles and the fluid looked new. Not sure if It was changed or not. It now has 55000. Fluid still looks ok. But I know it should be changed every 30000. So thats my project for this weekend. Any tips?

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Leave 2 bolts loose but not removed on one of the short edges when you pull the pan. Remove the rest of the bolts. That way the fluid drains in a controlled spot. I recommend cardboard under the catch pan. It's a messy job no matter what. Pay careful attention to how the filter comes out, some use orings or grommets where the filter goes into trans. Make sure and put the new one in the same way. I would give the trans about 30 minutes to drain once pan is off, lots of cavities that slowly drain the fluid out and takes awhile.
 
WJCO said:
Leave 2 bolts loose but not removed on one of the short edges when you pull the pan. Remove the rest of the bolts. That way the fluid drains in a controlled spot. I recommend cardboard under the catch pan. It's a messy job no matter what. Pay careful attention to how the filter comes out, some use orings or grommets where the filter goes into trans. Make sure and put the new one in the same way. I would give the trans about 30 minutes to drain once pan is off, lots of cavities that slowly drain the fluid out and takes awhile.
Click to expand...
Awesome thank you so much. I'm a bit nervous to do it. I was going to pay the dealer to do it. But I figured save that money for the control arms.

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10abadilla/jk said:
Awesome thank you so much. I'm a bit nervous to do it. I was going to pay the dealer to do it. But I figured save that money for the control arms.

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I think you should be fine doing it yourself. If you have power tools or air tools it saves a ton of time for bolt removal, there's a lot of them. Did it come with a new gasket or are you supposed to use RTV?
 
Clearance testing. Making sure the truss does not hit the bottom of the oil pan. Everything is clear. But to be on the safe side I'm going to add bump stops. For some odd reason the rear has 2in bump stops but the front does not have any. I haven't had any issues with rubbing or anything of that nature. But with all the issues I've had I think it would be a nice precaution. IMG_5249.jpg

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10abadilla/jk said:
Clearance testing. Making sure the truss does not hit the bottom of the oil pan. Everything is clear. But to be on the safe side I'm going to add bump stops. For some odd reason the rear has 2in bump stops but the front does not have any. I haven't had any issues with rubbing or anything of that nature. But with all the issues I've had I think it would be a nice precaution.

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Your front has no bump stops? Like cup missing too or just the rubber stop?

EDIT: Just looked through your thread. These are your front bump stops.

20161126_182336.jpg
 
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