The long and slow build of "................"

I guess my point is, don't jump ahead of yourself and potentially cost yourself more money quicker than you plan on. If you put 37s on with what you've got, there is a big risk of breaking something you don't want to break.

I suggested Rubi takeoffs because you'll get 4.10s and lockers in one spend. That will make your 35s a lot more bearable until you can afford the next step. I'll bet you can get a decent deal on them if your patient (hard, I know 😎). It seems like someone on the forum is upgrading their axles every week, so you might get lucky here 😂 but maybe you can ask offroad shops for takeoffs too.

I'd hate to see you put more money into regearing what you've got just to hear that you blew something else up and have to start over. Just a thought.
 
WJCO said:
I would do a locker in the rear at the same time. Wish I had of. (Yes, that's what she said)
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Haha good one. At this point would it be better to sit on the money and not regear. It just sucks driving it everyday up a hill on 35s and 3.21s. It was fine when it was only used for weekends and wheeling. But now it's rough. I know Its rough on the tranny and eventually I may have to pay in the long run.

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BaddestCross said:
I guess my point is, don't jump ahead of yourself and potentially cost yourself more money quicker than you plan on. If you put 37s on with what you've got, there is a big risk of breaking something you don't want to break.

I suggested Rubi takeoffs because you'll get 4.10s and lockers in one spend. That will make your 35s a lot more bearable until you can afford the next step. I'll bet you can get a decent deal on them if your patient (hard, I know 😎). It seems like someone on the forum is upgrading their axles every week, so you might get lucky here 😂 but maybe you can ask offroad shops for takeoffs too.

I'd hate to see you put more money into regearing what you've got just to hear that you blew something else up and have to start over. Just a thought.
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I completely understand what you are saying. And I appreciate the help. The only concern I have is that the 44 and 30 have the same end forging and same tube diameter go I'd have to throw gussets on it. Yea it's a 44 And it does have thicker tubes. My rear is already a 44. I figure if I'm going to spend money on a front axle why not the prorock 44. Of course when I do have the money. No need to invest in a rear axle when mine is just fine. I do understand that they do have 4.10s. But I want to regear to 4.88s anways. So either way id be spending money twice. If I buy axles and regear or if I regear then buy a front axle. I figure if I'm going to do that maybe just regear and run my 30 to the ground. I don't know. Either way I'm s.o.l haha. Unless I can find a 44 take off for really cheap.

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10abadilla/jk said:
Evo is going to charge me about 1800 front and rear open diffs. My questions are going to be.

1- I really want 37s. Should I do that at that time ( wheeling will still continue on the regular ).
2- stick with 35s and the regear And go with new shocks. Fox reservoir? Also looking for suggestions.

The regear is a for sure along with rear control arms. But still trying to decide which route to go after that? Thank you all in advance.

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If I were in your position, I'd keep the 35's for now, do the 4.88 regear and put a locker in the rear. Having a locker means less use of the skinny pedal to clear obstacles and that will help keep your 30 alive much longer. I guarantee you will not know how you lived without it for so long once you have it.
 
WJCO said:
I would definitely upgrade the front axle with a locker and then regear at the same time. You will save money in the long run if you ever do a locker or have to upgrade due to a break. I re-geared 1.5 years ago. Then I did a ProRock last fall, then last week I put an ARB and new axles in the rear. I literally wasted 1500 or so doing the regear at first. I really wished that I would have waited and was patient.
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WJCO said:
I would do a locker in the rear at the same time. Wish I had of. (Yes, that's what she said)
Click to expand...

I realize you really meant he should lock the rear, but in case someone else sees it, you should really avoid adding a locker to a D30 front.
 
JK_Dave said:
If I were in your position, I'd keep the 35's for now, do the 4.88 regear and put a locker in the rear. Having a locker means less use of the skinny pedal to clear obstacles and that will help keep your 30 alive much longer. I guarantee you will not know how you lived without it for so long once you have it.
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Haha so I've been told! Thank you for the advise. I pretty much had that thought. I have been advised to also look into traclock. What are the thoughts on that. Its a bit more cost effective then lockers.

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While throwing money at a D30 is not IDEAL, in my experience it hasn't been a terrible axle (granted I run 31s on a TJ). I didn't read through the entire conversation on the topic, just kind of skimmed over it... but from what I gather, you're looking to re-gear both axles and eventually upgrade to a ProRock 44? If that's the case, I say re-gear now, wheel that D30 until it blows, and at that point get a ProRock.
 
BananaJeep said:
While throwing money at a D30 is not IDEAL, in my experience it hasn't been a terrible axle (granted I run 31s on a TJ). I didn't read through the entire conversation on the topic, just kind of skimmed over it... but from what I gather, you're looking to re-gear both axles and eventually upgrade to a ProRock 44? If that's the case, I say re-gear now, wheel that D30 until it blows, and at that point get a ProRock.
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You hit it spot on. More or less the question was to to regear to 4.88 and go with 37s and rear control arms. ( I already have fronts) or run the 35s with the 4.88s and maybe invest in some bypass shocks. I have fox ifp 2.0s. Either way I was going to regear but I was looking for experienced suggestions and was open to them


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10abadilla/jk said:
Haha so I've been told! Thank you for the advise. I pretty much had that thought. I have been advised to also look into traclock. What are the thoughts on that. Its a bit more cost effective then lockers.

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Trac-Lok is a mechanical limited slip diff with clutch packs that is definitely better than an open diff, but I'd still keep a locker in consideration. I've heard that the clutch only lasts about 60-70K miles before they wear out and then you've got an open diff again.

Maybe if you pose this question in the JK Wrangler forum, others with experience could opine.
 
JK_Dave said:
I realize you really meant he should lock the rear, but in case someone else sees it, you should really avoid adding a locker to a D30 front.
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By upgrading the front axle with a locker, I meant upgrade the entire axle to a 44 and do a locker at the same time. Absolutely I would also not recommend locking the 30. I should have made the post clearer.
 
WJCO said:
By upgrading the front axle with a locker, I meant upgrade the entire axle to a 44 and do a locker at the same time. Absolutely I would also not recommend locking the 30. I should have made the post clearer.
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Yea I cannot afford a new front axle unfortunately. I need the regear. So I guess I'm stuck paying twice. Gotta stick with the d30 for now.

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JK_Dave said:
I assume that's a Control Arm bolt? Why did you switch from the factory bolts?
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I purchased the hardware with the control arms because I did not have the front factory control arm bolts. The owner before me actually used cam bolts on the front lower. So I used the frame side bolts on the axle. And the new hardwear on the frame side. They were grade 8. I got new ones from tractor supply and they are way better. They have held up great.

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10abadilla/jk said:
I'm not sure how this happened but here it is. View attachment 259890View attachment 259891
I'll try and tackle it this coming weekend. If it can hold up that long. Odd thing is is that the bolt was loose.

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Must be a defective washer. I fell for the grade 8 upgrade before I knew what a forum was and found the Wayalife, but the washers in the kit are twice as thick as a regular washer. Not sure it matters or not, just an observation


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