The Butters JK Build

So I did the diff fluid change at 410 miles right before heading to SMORR. Did cover-off on both and everything looked good.IMG_20180831_152734.jpg
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I need some advice; I noticed at SMORR that my turning radius seemed like it might be a little less going to the left verses the right. I looked at the front end a little closer this afternoon and saw this:
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You can see where the drag link is hitting the stabilizer. It hits about 3/4 of an inch before the knuckle hits the stop. Even if I remove the stabilizer (which I don't really want to do) I think it'll still hit the bracket.

Should I do a drag link flip on only 3" of lift? Or just get a drag link with more bend in it? Any other suggestions?
 
Maybe you could get more clearance by using a shock extension to move the stabilizer over a few inches.
 
fiend said:
Maybe you could get more clearance by using a shock extension to move the stabilizer over a few inches.
Click to expand...
I looked at it from underneath and it's definitely hitting the bracket:
IMG_20180905_164613.jpg
So moving the stabilizer won't help.

Thanks for the suggestion!
 
Stotch said:
I looked at it from underneath and it's definitely hitting the bracket:

So moving the stabilizer won't help.

Thanks for the suggestion!
Click to expand...

In that case, I would suggest a drag link flip and raised track bar bracket.
 
I have an older model Synergy drag link that can’t be flipped, at least not that I’m aware of. Anyway, it’s worked well for me for 5+ years. It does “flop” though, which some people find bothersome, although it doesn’t seem to affect the performance.
 
I just ordered the Synergy. Even though the Crown might do the job just fine, I like the Synergy better and it'll replace both ends (which are 10 years old). For $270 I think it'll be worth it.
 
Drag link flip is in.
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Had some help from my 1 year old boy too :)
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Poor kid will never be able to save money with that enthusiasm LOL
 
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