The building of knuckles

MTG, I may have asked you before but did you replace both your drive shafts to 1350s after your enforcer lift? I searched the thread but didn't find it. :idontknow:
 
He didn't replace the rear...tore the boot doing a flex test and then realized we needed to move his evap over.

He replaced the torn boot OEM with a "new" OEM shaft. I don't think he has ever put an aftermarket shaft in the rear. Usually, if you put in a new rear shaft, you need to get rear control arms to dial everything in. He is running OEM rear arms.

Also, MTG is running a 1310 front, not a 1350.
 
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He didn't replace the rear...tore the boot doing a flex test and then realized we needed to move his evap over.

He replaced the torn boot OEM with a "new" OEM shaft. I don't think he has ever put an aftermarket shaft in the rear. Usually, if you put in a new rear shaft, you need to get rear control arms to dial everything in. He is running OEM rear arms.

Also, MTG is running a 1310 front, not a 1350.

I have been pricing out the Enforcer lift and it has always been my understanding that you should change your rear drive shaft after a lift. I have a JKUR Rubi Manual 12.

I know he is running 37s and didn't do much other mods other than the gussets on the Cs. I have been waffling over 35s or 37s and I think I'm just going 37s cause I know I will still want them if I only go to 35s.

Looking at the driveshafts I saw the 1350 said it was better for running larger tires up to 37s so that is why I asked about the 1350. :blush:

I'll be sitting at about $5400 with the lift w/2.5 kings and 5 37"x12.5 r17 Nitto Trail grapplers. The JE-reel drive-shafts were $799 :eek: just trying to nail down my costs :yup:
 
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I have been pricing out the Enforcer lift and it has always been my understanding that you should change your rear drive shaft after a lift. I have a JKUR Rubi Manual 12.

I know he is running 37s and didn't do much other mods other than the gussets on the Cs. I have been waffling over 35s or 37s and I think I'm just going 37s cause I know I will still want them if I only go to 35s.

Looking at the driveshafts I saw the 1350 said it was better for running larger tires up to 37s so that is why I asked about the 1350. :blush:

If you are thinking about going 37s go with 37s and do not bother with 35s.

Sharkey is correct. I am running stock rear DS and a 1310 up front. I have the 1310 because that is what I put in when I had 35s, which only lasted a few months. You do not need to replace the rear DS. But if you do you will need rear upper control arms at a minimum.

If it were me and I was doing it again, I'd go 37s and a front 1350 DS from the get go. :thumb:
 
Thanks for the clarification guys!

I'm finally getting closer to pulling the trigger on the lift and tires and I'm hopefully going to do it in the next month or so. I purchased my C gussets and control arm skids today from EVO. 👍

Spent the day tire shopping also. Discount tire had about the best deal I could find, $2470.64 out the door for 5 37s mounted. Online tire had some very cheap prices but shipping was $745 to get them to TX 😱


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MTG.... if you did it all over again you would have started with the Double Throwdown... Just say'n.:rock:

Don't think so. ;)

While it would be nice, I just can't see spending that kind of money at this point. Don't get me wrong, if I had unlimited funds I'd love to have that set up. But I don't. :grayno:
 
MTG.... if you did it all over again you would have started with the Double Throwdown... Just say'n.:rock:

what about going with the DoubleD instead of the Enforcer? would you do that or are you thinking about the upgrade kit?

andrew -

I should probably clarify my previous answers. I forget this build thread started mid-build and not from the beginning.

At the time I bought the jeep I had never spent more than $10K on a vehicle for myself. I had never even put after market rims on a car before. The only "mods" I had ever done was tinted windows and a new stereo...both done by "professionals." So the concept of taking a $36K vehicle and swapping parts, let alone cutting it up and drilling holes into it, was completely foreign to me and frankly seemed completely asinine. I honestly had no intention of doing more than a budget boost (i.e. a puck) and maybe 33s when the stock tires wore out. But hey, like many of us I got the bug and developed full JDD. Actually, Sharkey worked really hard to convince me to spend more money than I planned and get the Enforcer kit and I am very happy that I did. It outperforms its driver every time I take it out. :cheesy:

Flash forward to now. I am perfectly happy with my jeep and love every minute of driving it (except for when shit is broken or when I have a squeak...read: not very often). I drive on the freeway at 80 mph+ with one hand or a few fingers on the wheel and have yet to find a place that I can't go off road. Hell, I haven't had a SS on for the last couple of weeks and can't tell the difference.

So...would I go back and do something different? No. Looking forward, would I do so if I bought a new jeep? Maybe.

This is based on a cursory look at ORE website and without any real research as to what I might do...

DoubleD...I don't see what that would do for me other than long arms. If the only benefit is "on road" handling gains, I don't see any benefit. My jeep handles great at a fraction of the cost.

The high clearance system...seeing all the scraps and gouges in my stock control arm mounts, I'd probably consider this now.

Bolt on coil overs...while I do not see the need to upgrade my current set up to this one. I can see the draw to get it over traditional coils/shocks. However, the price would have kept me from getting it originally. If I were in the market today, I would consider it, but I would like to think I would run coils and shocks until I saved enough for the big daddy! However, given the price of going DTD/EVO Lever I might just do this and call it good if it was within my budget.

DTD/EVO lever...watching the rigs with this set up for the better part of 2 years, I have to say this would be the way I would go if money were no object. It is truly amazing to watch and the ride is even better.

But alas, money is an object. :sigh:

Anyway, maybe that is TMI, but maybe it will help somebody decide what they should do.

Regardless, its just my :twocents: take if for what it is. :thumb:
 
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this is a great explanation. i agree about the upgrade which is why it is last on my list of mods, after my pr44, sport cage, lockers, trail lights, front 1350 DS, blah blah blah.....


andrew -
 
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Short version...become friends with Sharkey and he will make you spend more than you want, but you will be happy you did. ;)
 
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