The build/dairy of “_________”

Oreo_penguin536

Oreo_penguin536

New member
A few of you guys talked me into making a build thread, so here it be.

My first post will be short and sweet, the second will be a reader🤙🏾 3rd is pics

First things first, this is my heeper creeper that has no beeper! She needs a name and by following the laws of names, you can’t give yourself your own nickname, it has to come from someone else. So any name ideas would be much appreciated!

Secondly, is my build plan, since I have no money right now I’ll list what will eventually happen

Air lockers front and rear

Stinger winch bumper

Rear tire carrier/bumper

Roof rack with a Ayer tepui tent mounted

Disco sway bars! [emoji126]

3 inch lift staying sprung under with greasable shackles

Lights....everywhere

Warn 10k winch

33x12.5 nittos and rims

New hard top

Projectors and led lights

Hood line fender flares

Seats, dash, Bedliner, red lights, rear seat delete, locking glove box, sound bar, cb radio (hopefully next week if weather holds), tint, fix minor bugs
[minor bugs are leaky hard top, passenger winder spinner needs replaced, some bolts needed, fix driver side window (won’t shut all the way), new tumblers so I can lock the damn thing, and hydro lids for the rear window]

Rock sliders

Possibly a paint job

Undercoat for everything underneath

Skid plates all around

Possibly fuel cell

4 link front and rear

Dana 44s or corporate 14 rear, dana 60 front will full disc brakes and chromoly axle shafts

Full body armor

Stickers

Last but not least, 4bt swap/ ls3 swap in the long run


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As to why I have 28.7% apr and had to have this Jeep.
I won’t tell you the deep morbid reason but I like jeeps. They’ve been in the family since I was a kid and they all have the same certain smell, atleast to me anyway.

This little beast has been on 2 runs so far and has surpassed my expectations of a stock wrangler by far.

So sorry for the long posts but there ya have it! Start of my thread and it will be slow but hopefully the first mod will be coming next weekend in the form of a cb radio!


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Nice looking rig. Gotta say the pic with the rear end squatting was a bit concerning until I realized what was going on up front [emoji23]. I miss all my old jeeps, but most of all I miss my 1st which was a YJ.


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So today at lunch I realized my hard top is cracking in the front driver side corner. On lunch i siliconed it in hopes that that will help keep some water out, wind noise went down s great deal too!


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The only problem I ever had with my YJ back in the day was with the front axle. It wasn't a great design. But, with some kind of manual locking mechanism for the 4wd and good seals it was fine. Sticking to 33's will be a big help for you as well to keep that axle alive. As a side note and maybe save a little money, an 8000 lb. winch would be plenty for your ride.

Not sure I get staying spring under AND 4 link front and rear. Unless I'm misunderstanding something.
 
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4 link and under spring were 2 different ideas I had haha haven’t quite yet decided one which. 33s is all I’d ask honestly. I’m trying to go for the “point and go anywhere” instead of the whole insane flex thing🤙🏾
What happened with your front end?


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Oreo_penguin536 said:
4 link and under spring were 2 different ideas I had haha haven’t quite yet decided one which. 33s is all I’d ask honestly. I’m trying to go for the “point and go anywhere” instead of the whole insane flex thing🤙🏾
What happened with your front end?


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Seals and bearings went out really prematurely. U-joints on both sides went out but to be fair, those were probably due to be changed out anyhow because of milage. The OE vacuum disconnect system was a complete piece of junk. Left me stuck in 2wd several times so I replaced it with a manual cable style system. Never had to worry about it again.

I would suggest for cost and reliability reasons you stick with leaf springs. By the time you fab and spend to get a four link done right, you might as well trade for a TJ. Outside of those couple axle issues, my simple suspension was pretty much bulletproof.
 
I can still get a 3inch suspension lift and a 1” shackle lift with spring under right?
I keep hearing go greasable shackles and you can safely grab 2 inches of lift that way. Not sure about the tcase drop though with that


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Oreo_penguin536 said:
I can still get a 3inch suspension lift and a 1” shackle lift with spring under right?
I keep hearing go greasable shackles and you can safely grab 2 inches of lift that way. Not sure about the tcase drop though with that


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My set up was a 3.5 BDS with 1 inch shackles. It had a transfer case drop in the kit. Never had any driveline vibration issues or steering problems. Ran 33's no problem.
Pretty much any 4 inch kit will have the t-case drop with it. You don't wan't shackles that give 2 inches of lift, even greasable ones. 1. it looks goofy because to get 2 inches of lift they have to be 4 inches over stock because you are only lifting one end. 2. It'll throw your caster off and steering will be funky.
 
So if I go 1 inch greasable shackles will that be okay or will I have the same problem? I didn’t know you’d have to drop the tvase with a leaf sprung lift, just brake lines and hoses and such would need to be alter anything over like 3 inches I thought. Correct me if I’m wrong though

And what is BDS?


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Oreo_penguin536 said:
So if I go 1 inch greasable shackles will that be okay or will I have the same problem? I didn’t know you’d have to drop the tvase with a leaf sprung lift, just brake lines and hoses and such would need to be alter anything over like 3 inches I thought. Correct me if I’m wrong though

And what is BDS?

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1 inch is good and as big as you want to go with shackles. Although my advice would be to go with a 4 inch kit rather than a 3.5 and add 1/2 inch to 1 inch lift shackles only if you need them. The closer to stock on the shackle the better. You drop the transfer case to lessen the angle on the drive shaft. It doesn't matter which kind of lift you do, the angle needs to be addressed because any of the 2 door Jeep drive shafts are very short. Generally 2 to 2.5 inches is the max without changing lots of stuff.
For example, the other mods needed are longer shocks, brake lines, bump stops and sway bar links. The YJ also has track bars to deal with, usually with a bracket, there should be adjustable ones. I was lucky, Because I was at 4.5 total suspension between springs and shackles and was able to retain my stock drive shafts. I have seen others who needed to extend at least the rear one.

BDS is just a suspension company. I used to work for a division of them called Sport Truck USA which was a retail off road shop. BDS was new at the time and built the business on their warranty. It's a good kit, others may be better or worse. Just do your research.

Oreo_penguin536 said:
decided to go on a little trail run with my wife and her samurai

View attachment 285186

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Great pic of some family wheeling. Many of us wish we could talk our wives into getting an off road toy. Some have managed it, I have not
 
I gotcha, I was just looking under it earlier today and noticed how short the drive lines were, was actually surprised. How hard is it to put lowering pucks on a tcase? What about the height of the shifter or are those not affected? I might be looking in the wrong places but I haven’t found too much info on specifics. I figure I could do most of all that myself outside of a garage since it mainly consists of just unbolting and rebolting, nothing too technical, and we don’t have a garage.

I’m guessing 2.5 inches of lift with 2 inch wheel spacers and hoodline fenders should be able to clear 33x12.5s


Yeah she loves wheeling! Wants to go every chance she gets even if we only go in my jeep[emoji23]. So far she’s gotten stuck once and almost rolled 2 times. Got it on 2 wheels[emoji15]. Just wish had a Jeep so she could be part of the forum


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Oreo_penguin536 said:
How hard is it to put lowering pucks on a tcase? What about the height of the shifter or are those not affected?
I’m guessing 2.5 inches of lift with 2 inch wheel spacers and hoodline fenders should be able to clear 33x12.5s

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Support the transfer case skid with a floor jack and take out the six bolts. Lower it enough to put in the spacers and start the bolts by hand running them in a few threads. Jack up skid loosely to frame and tighten bolts. Shifters and linkages should be fine. Shifters will lower the same distance as the t-case drop. It's hardly noticeable.
I saw you have extended shackles in the front on stock springs. You should replace those with stockers. 2.5 with hoodlines should work. Skip the wheel spacers unless you really love those wheels and get 15x8 wheels with a 3.5 inch backspacing. If you go steel wheels, you may not spend that much more than the spacers cost. Banana Jeep has a setup similar on his TJ, I'll add a link so you can see a similar style of build but with a different suspension. You can get a little more room in the back with TJ flares for cheap. Just run hoodlines in the front.

https://wayalife.com/showthread.php/41623-The-Building-of-the-Banana-Jeep
 
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