Teraflex Full Float Hubs

I've taken a look at SpynTec due to the rate I'm burning thru hubs.

My 2010 was my daily driver (until the JL) and also driven to and from wheeling locations. Since going to 37's and beadlocks the stock hubs have been my nemesis. I've tried Timkins but they didn't last may longer than O'Reilly's brand, difference being O'Reilly has a 3 year warranty so lots of exchanges...

While swapping out the hub is not difficult, letting it go before I had time to replace it has caused me to replace other parts as well as tires.

I do like the laziness of not getting out to lock in the hubs but I'm also thinking the price of the SpynTec isn't that much with what I've spent on repair parts due to the hubs wearing out so damn fast and me not able to repair them as soon as I should.

I'm also thinking it's time to get wheels with different backspacing. Changing from ATX 4" BS to KMC 3.5" BS seems to have decreased the time between hubs - I think I should be at 4.5" BS on both the JK and JL :doh:
 
jeeeep said:
I've taken a look at SpynTec due to the rate I'm burning thru hubs.

My 2010 was my daily driver (until the JL) and also driven to and from wheeling locations. Since going to 37's and beadlocks the stock hubs have been my nemesis. I've tried Timkins but they didn't last may longer than O'Reilly's brand, difference being O'Reilly has a 3 year warranty so lots of exchanges...

While swapping out the hub is not difficult, letting it go before I had time to replace it has caused me to replace other parts as well as tires.

I do like the laziness of not getting out to lock in the hubs but I'm also thinking the price of the SpynTec isn't that much with what I've spent on repair parts due to the hubs wearing out so damn fast and me not able to repair them as soon as I should.

I'm also thinking it's time to get wheels with different backspacing. Changing from ATX 4" BS to KMC 3.5" BS seems to have decreased the time between hubs - I think I should be at 4.5" BS on both the JK and JL :doh:
Click to expand...

Are others on D44’s burning through unit bearings like you? Would a PR 44 help much?


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jeeeep said:
I've taken a look at SpynTec due to the rate I'm burning thru hubs.

My 2010 was my daily driver (until the JL) and also driven to and from wheeling locations. Since going to 37's and beadlocks the stock hubs have been my nemesis. I've tried Timkins but they didn't last may longer than O'Reilly's brand, difference being O'Reilly has a 3 year warranty so lots of exchanges...

While swapping out the hub is not difficult, letting it go before I had time to replace it has caused me to replace other parts as well as tires.

I do like the laziness of not getting out to lock in the hubs but I'm also thinking the price of the SpynTec isn't that much with what I've spent on repair parts due to the hubs wearing out so damn fast and me not able to repair them as soon as I should.

I'm also thinking it's time to get wheels with different backspacing. Changing from ATX 4" BS to KMC 3.5" BS seems to have decreased the time between hubs - I think I should be at 4.5" BS on both the JK and JL :doh:
Click to expand...

Don’t forget to factor in the cost of new wheels with the 5x5.5 lug pattern if you go Spyntec. Costs start to add up ...


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Clutch said:
Are others on D44’s burning through unit bearings like you? Would a PR 44 help much?
Click to expand...

It's the 3.5" of back spacing that are causing ball joints and unit bearings to wear out. Factory is 6.25" and the less you go, the more stress it puts on your components. This is a BIG part of why we went to a 72.5" wide XD60 on Rubicat and so that we could run wheels with 5.5" of back spacing AND this is why we're now running wheels with 4.75" of back spacing on our JL. Seems like the more cost effective way to go especially being that we wanted new beadlocks anyway. :yup:
 
wayoflife said:
It's the 3.5" of back spacing that are causing ball joints and unit bearings to wear out. Factory is 6.25" and the less you go, the more stress it puts on your components. This is a BIG part of why we went to a 72.5" wide XD60 on Rubicat and so that we could run wheels with 5.5" of back spacing AND this is why we're now running wheels with 4.75" of back spacing on our JL. Seems like the more cost effective way to go especially being that we wanted new beadlocks anyway. :yup:
Click to expand...

The more I read stuff like this... the more I think I should just run stock wheels with spacers... putting me at 4.75 instead of 3.5.... But I’d much rather run the Slabs that are sitting in my garage... I guess it all comes down to how much time you want to spend replacing worn parts.
 
Clutch said:
Are others on D44’s burning through unit bearings like you? Would a PR 44 help much?
Click to expand...

Unfortunately the PR44 won't help at all because it uses stock unit bearings.

fiend said:
Don’t forget to factor in the cost of new wheels with the 5x5.5 lug pattern if you go Spyntec. Costs start to add up ...
Click to expand...

This is what stops me in my tracks every time I start to thinking this is a good idea...:grayno:

TrailHunter said:
The more I read stuff like this... the more I think I should just run stock wheels with spacers... putting me at 4.75 instead of 3.5.... But I’d much rather run the Slabs that are sitting in my garage... I guess it all comes down to how much time you want to spend replacing worn parts.
Click to expand...

I change mine out every Winter now as part of my yearly maintenance "overhaul ". It's a pain in the ass but also peace of mind.
 
wayoflife said:
It's the 3.5" of back spacing that are causing ball joints and unit bearings to wear out. Factory is 6.25" and the less you go, the more stress it puts on your components. This is a BIG part of why we went to a 72.5" wide XD60 on Rubicat and so that we could run wheels with 5.5" of back spacing AND this is why we're now running wheels with 4.75" of back spacing on our JL. Seems like the more cost effective way to go especially being that we wanted new beadlocks anyway. :yup:
Click to expand...

If I were to start out all over with a clean slate this is what I would do even though I'm never going over the 37's I'm currently running. Ahhh, the stuff we learn as we go....
 
Ddays said:
If I were to start out all over with a clean slate this is what I would do even though I'm never going over the 37's I'm currently running. Ahhh, the stuff we learn as we go....
Click to expand...

Indeed. The learning curve is always an expensive one for those who are willing to be an early adopter. Fortunately, I intend to apply some of what I’ve learned on our new JL.


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Ddays said:
Unfortunately the PR44 won't help at all because it uses stock unit bearings.



This is what stops me in my tracks every time I start to thinking this is a good idea...:grayno:



I change mine out every Winter now as part of my yearly maintenance "overhaul ". It's a pain in the ass but also peace of mind.
Click to expand...

Yup... go big or go home... and by home I mean, in the garage to wrench. [emoji849]
 
TrailHunter said:
For guys sticking with 35’s or 37’s... I’m wondering if you could use the new JL PR44 under a JK?? It uses JK gears, and gives you a little extra width which could help reduce wear on ball joints and hub assemblies.... I’m curious how different the mounting brackets are...

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=5fJobSjZegU
Click to expand...

Prob different enough that you would need to cut and move them for them to work with the jk
 
Ddays said:
Unfortunately the PR44 won't help at all because it uses stock unit bearings.



This is what stops me in my tracks every time I start to thinking this is a good idea...:grayno:



I change mine out every Winter now as part of my yearly maintenance "overhaul ". It's a pain in the ass but also peace of mind.
Click to expand...

Fortunately a pair or unit bearings is only about $150 give or take. And a few hours wrenching to change. Plus, you need to check out everything anyway so it's not that big of a deal. Just the price to play.

.
TrailHunter said:
For guys sticking with 35’s or 37’s... I’m wondering if you could use the new JL PR44 under a JK?? It uses JK gears, and gives you a little extra width which could help reduce wear on ball joints and hub assemblies.... I’m curious how different the mounting brackets are...

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=5fJobSjZegU
Click to expand...

Well, don't stop with the axle, just trade up to a JL before you get a ton of money invested in the JK.

I'm sure Mel would give you credit to swap that unopened lift😁😁😁
 
jdofmemi said:
Fortunately a pair or unit bearings is only about $150 give or take. And a few hours wrenching to change. Plus, you need to check out everything anyway so it's not that big of a deal. Just the price to play.

.


Well, don't stop with the axle, just trade up to a JL before you get a ton of money invested in the JK.

I'm sure Mel would give you credit to swap that unopened lift[emoji16][emoji16][emoji16]
Click to expand...

No way!!... I love my JK... Besides, why trade up to basically the same motor and having to upgrade axles eventually anyway. And I opened the lift.. lol
 
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