Tcase leak, shifter seal?

Do you know what size O-ring it is? I'd like to get a new one before I tear into mine so I don't have to find a ride to the store haha.
 
Slimebones said:
Ha. I usually end up with new scars on my head somewhere. Glad you got it fixed. Hate leaks.
Click to expand...

Andy5160 said:
Well done man!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Click to expand...

I hope it's fixed. I noticed a little residue today so I'm going to keep a closer eye on it.

Josh27 said:
Do you know what size O-ring it is? I'd like to get a new one before I tear into mine so I don't have to find a ride to the store haha.
Click to expand...

I don't. It was just an Oring from an assorted package that I got from O'Reilly's.
 
WJCO said:
Just got done. Truthfully with that shorty wrench, it wasn't too bad. Probably a 30 minute job. Without that, it would be impossible though. So thanks for the tip on the correct tool, slimebones. It took me longer to get the damn electrical connector off than it did to unscrew the sensor. And I have some new cuts on my arms.

Some tips for anyone doing this. If you get behind the transfer case and reach over the top, you can access the electrical connector easier.

View attachment 252470

The bottom of the sensor is a spring loaded plunger, so when you put it back in, you have to press down on it before the threads will even contact the transfer case. You can't see the sensor while you're putting it back in, you can only feel it due to the limited space.

View attachment 252471

Here's a pic of where it's located. Right behind and above the front driveshaft yoke.

View attachment 252475


Now I just have to wait and see if the leak is actually fixed. It will suck if it isn't.

View attachment 252477
Click to expand...


Do you mind providing an update on this repair? I have a small oil leak in the same area I'm tracking down, mine might be from the output shaft for the front driveshaft. I didn't put any RTV sealant when I replaced my front driveshaft awhile back.


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
Still leaking, but it's slowed down. Not sure what it is. It's above the shift linkage but below the Oring I replaced. The space in there is so limited, it's hard to say. It doesn't drip on the ground and fluid is full, so I'm done looking at it for now.
 
This thing is still leaking. Fluid level hasn't dropped so I'm not too worried about it. If I ever have to remove tcase or trans, I'll deal with it then.
 
An old thread but it helped me immensely today so I figured I’d add the tool I found on the cheap that’ll get it done and the how I got the connector off pretty easily for anyone else who comes across this.

Harbor Freight sells a 1-1/2” and 1-1/8” “hitch ball wrench” for $8.

https://www.harborfreight.com/hitch-...nch-95494.html

I cut it down to about 8” on the 1-1/2” side to fit up in there.

Secondly, since it’s hard to see how the connector works, there is a “button” at the top of the flat side of the connector. You have to press it pretty hard. To remove the connector, laying almost perpendicular to the Jeep with my head toward the driver’s side, I reached over the top of the T-case from behind it with my right hand to depress the button. With my left I gently pried it from under the portion of the connector with the button up and off with the tiny pry tool in the picture. It came off easily that way.
 

Attachments

  • 70B20B63-CBCB-46D3-975E-1DBE263734C7.jpg
    70B20B63-CBCB-46D3-975E-1DBE263734C7.jpg
    124.6 KB · Views: 72
colthoss said:
An old thread but it helped me immensely today so I figured I’d add the tool I found on the cheap that’ll get it done and the how I got the connector off pretty easily for anyone else who comes across this.

Harbor Freight sells a 1-1/2” and 1-1/8” “hitch ball wrench” for $8.

https://www.harborfreight.com/hitch-...nch-95494.html

I cut it down to about 8” on the 1-1/2” side to fit up in there.

Secondly, since it’s hard to see how the connector works, there is a “button” at the top of the flat side of the connector. You have to press it pretty hard. To remove the connector, laying almost perpendicular to the Jeep with my head toward the driver’s side, I reached over the top of the T-case from behind it with my right hand to depress the button. With my left I gently pried it from under the portion of the connector with the button up and off with the tiny pry tool in the picture. It came off easily that way.
Click to expand...

Good description with details, having been there with a more crude approach. Hard to get to.
 
U0414 due to Transfer Case Switch

Thanks to the great write-up here, I was able to swap out my transfer case switch easily. Getting the replacement to seat and catch the first threads was a little annoying- you have to keep constant down-pressure on it. I used a 6” adjustable wrench that could open to 1-1/2” to tighten it up.
I had a CEL with a U0414 code on my 2013 JKU. Narrowed it down to the TCM or this part so I started with the cheaper, easier fix first. Swapped it out, cleared the CEL, and nothing since.. Glad I didn’t have to get a new TCM and then waste my time at the dealer to get it flashed.
Thanks!
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom