Suspension System advice

J

JordanAycock

New member
Hey guys!
I'm just trying to get some info/advice about what lift I should get. I just bought a 2012 JK and it only has what I assume to be a leveling kit & 35's. If I am going to really invest into my jeep I'd love to go ahead and go to 37's as I grow into more wheeling, and eventually get 40's whenever I am at the place to do some serious wheeling.

So could you guys give me any ideas of what suspension systems you would recommend to be a great starting place for 37's, & that I could also expand off of in the future?
 
I'm using a Synergy 3" lift and flat fenders to fit 37's. I've been a big fan of Synergy stuff. I did mine piece by piece replacing an entry-level Rubicon Express lift. I started with the coils, then I did control arms two at a time. I think the Synergy components are a good foundation for a progressive build.

The 3" lift requires flat fenders to fit 37's. If you want to keep the stock fenders, you'll need more like a 4.5" lift. Fitting 40's becomes more interesting...

EVO is another great choice. Everyone raves about them.
 
FenderBender said:
I'm using a Synergy 3" lift and flat fenders to fit 37's. I've been a big fan of Synergy stuff. I did mine piece by piece replacing an entry-level Rubicon Express lift. I started with the coils, then I did control arms two at a time. I think the Synergy components are a good foundation for a progressive build.

The 3" lift requires flat fenders to fit 37's. If you want to keep the stock fenders, you'll need more like a 4.5" lift. Fitting 40's becomes more interesting...

EVO is another great choice. Everyone raves about them.
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I've heard nothing but good things about EVO, just a pretty penny. But i guess it's worth it for the value. I do plan to run flat fenders
 
JordanAycock said:
I've heard nothing but good things about EVO, just a pretty penny. But i guess it's worth it for the value. I do plan to run flat fenders
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I believe for the JK Evo only offers a 3 or 4 inch. I ran the Evo 3 inch with cut flat factory fenders and 37s for a while and it was and is a great kit. The lift itself is not that pricey and its the King 2.5s that run the price up but are defiantly worth it, but not a must. Synergy and Currie also make a nice complete system as other options as well.
 
MericaMade said:
I believe for the JK Evo only offers a 3 or 4 inch. I ran the Evo 3 inch with cut flat factory fenders and 37s for a while and it was and is a great kit. The lift itself is not that pricey and its the King 2.5s that run the price up but are defiantly worth it, but not a must. Synergy and Currie also make a nice complete system as other options as well.
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Are the Evo lifts considered complete systems?
 
JordanAycock said:
Are the Evo lifts considered complete systems?
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The really great thing about Evo is you can buy in stages. You can get the lift alone or the more preferred option is to start with the Enforce Stage 2 Draglink flip kit. From there you can add the other control arms over time. The stage two gets you front lowers, rear uppers, and draglift flip in either 3 or 4 inch lift option. You have a option to not to the DL flip but for $250 more its worth it.
 
JordanAycock said:
4 door. and I want to run flat fenders
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With a 4dr on 37s and flat fender I'd say anywhere in the 3-3.5" range would great.
Nice thing about Evo if you choose that route is get the 3" kit for 37s then if you decide 40s are in your future swap in the 4" coils. Either way I'd recommend getting the drag link flip with any 3"+ kit. The Evo coils on my 2 dr are great but they do sag if you load it up. The AEV coils on my 4dr are a bit rough but I can load the thing as much as I want and it stays put so... pros and cons
 
Honestly, if you are thinking you are going 40s sooner or later skip the lift kits and go straight to evo’s bolt on coilovers., Its more expensive now, but you’ll be ahead in the end when you end up putting COs under it later. Plus the ride, flex, and adjustability are levels above the standard coil spring lifts. IMO, 37s are at the very limit of what springs/shocks can handle.

Same thing can be said for the control arms, you can replace the arms with standard length EVO arms, or you can correct the geometry for these taller lifts and go to a EVO long arm kit. More expensive, but it’s stronger snd correct.

Just trying to keep you from going down the build cycles some of us have been thru. In hindsight, I would have jumped to the COs right from the start when I put 37s under it.
 
wjtstudios said:
Honestly, if you are thinking you are going 40s sooner or later skip the lift kits and go straight to evo’s bolt on coilovers., Its more expensive now, but you’ll be ahead in the end when you end up putting COs under it later. Plus the ride, flex, and adjustability are levels above the standard coil spring lifts. IMO, 37s are at the very limit of what springs/shocks can handle.

Same thing can be said for the control arms, you can replace the arms with standard length EVO arms, or you can correct the geometry for these taller lifts and go to a EVO long arm kit. More expensive, but it’s stronger snd correct.

Just trying to keep you from going down the build cycles some of us have been thru. In hindsight, I would have jumped to the COs right from the start when I put 37s under it.
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This. 👍
 
wjtstudios said:
Honestly, if you are thinking you are going 40s sooner or later skip the lift kits and go straight to evo’s bolt on coilovers., Its more expensive now, but you’ll be ahead in the end when you end up putting COs under it later. Plus the ride, flex, and adjustability are levels above the standard coil spring lifts. IMO, 37s are at the very limit of what springs/shocks can handle.

Same thing can be said for the control arms, you can replace the arms with standard length EVO arms, or you can correct the geometry for these taller lifts and go to a EVO long arm kit. More expensive, but it’s stronger snd correct.

Just trying to keep you from going down the build cycles some of us have been thru. In hindsight, I would have jumped to the COs right from the start when I put 37s under it.
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So are you saying if i go straight to coil overs I don't need a lift?
 
MericaMade said:
The coilovers are the lift. More expensive but you'll save yourself money in the long run if you go straight to the coilover kit by Evo. Go check out the the Evo Enforcer PRO.
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Gotcha, I thought you meant I would just need the coil overs. The Enforcer Pro kits are nice
 
JordanAycock said:
So are you saying if i go straight to coil overs I don't need a lift?
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Yes, the COs are the lift kit. There’s a lot more to the COs than just lift. The adjustability let’s you set the ride height based off you clearance at your fenders and your bump stop to dial it right in to your jeep and specific details that it has and keep it as low as possible while giving you the most flex. The COs also give more control to the axle while moving fast and less fade in the shocks giving you the control, comfort, and more confidence to bomb down the trail.
 
wjtstudios said:
Yes, the COs are the lift kit. There’s a lot more to the COs than just lift. The adjustability let’s you set the ride height based off you clearance at your fenders and your bump stop to dial it right in to your jeep and specific details that it has and keep it as low as possible while giving you the most flex. The COs also give more control to the axle while moving fast and less fade in the shocks giving you the control, comfort, and more confidence to bomb down the trail.
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Gotcha! I'm following. Sounds like I need to find a shop that I can make sure they know how to install an EVO kit correctly & whatnot
 
JordanAycock said:
Gotcha! I'm following. Sounds like I need to find a shop that I can make sure they know how to install an EVO kit correctly & whatnot
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It’s really not bad to do yourself, and it gives you a very good understanding on how everything works when you need to adjust them later. It’s all bolt on, no welding needed. The only thing you will need are tall jack stands to be able to let the axle drop down far enough to make the swap. It took me around 5-6 hours to do and you can do the front and rear separately to keep the Jeep on the road if you can’t tackle it in one shot.
 
If you are wanting to run 37's and 40's... are you accounting for Axle upgrades? Because that would be my first concern for "serious wheeling". This is the point where you and your wallet have to keep it real.
 
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