Shock locks?

Tack weld the nut or demolish the threads after they are mounted, at least it would take a grinder or sawzall to get them off quickly. Still not theft proof but it would take some time and noise to remove them.

Downside is you need to cut off the bolts to service shocks or springs
 
CalSgt said:
Tack weld the nut or demolish the threads after they are mounted, at least it would take a grinder or sawzall to get them off quickly. Still not theft proof but it would take some time and noise to remove them.

Downside is you need to cut off the bolts to service shocks or springs
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I know nothing is "theft proof" but deterrent or at least something that would take time or create some noise so I can get to it in time is good enough for me. Thanks for the suggestion.
 
fiend said:
There are tamper resistant fasteners. Maybe something like this.

https://www.mcmaster.com/Nuts/tamper-resistant-tri-groove-nuts/tamper-resistant-nuts


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Cool idea, but those only go up to M10. I think the shock bolts are M12 according to google.

If you're really worried about shocks getting stolen... I would do as suggested and tack weld the nut. With a grinder, it'll take just seconds to remove, but some punk with a wrench couldn't do it out on the street.
 
zimm said:
Cool idea, but those only go up to M10. I think the shock bolts are M12 according to google.

If you're really worried about shocks getting stolen... I would do as suggested and tack weld the nut. With a grinder, it'll take just seconds to remove, but some punk with a wrench couldn't do it out on the street.
Click to expand...

Oh yeah I didn't even check fitting sizes. Thanks for bringing that up. Yeah I might end up doing that just to be safe. I might be being overly cautious, but a little extra security for something that takes less than 2 minutes seems like a worthy idea. Thanks again man.
 
zimm said:
Cool idea, but those only go up to M10. I think the shock bolts are M12 according to google.

If you're really worried about shocks getting stolen... I would do as suggested and tack weld the nut. With a grinder, it'll take just seconds to remove, but some punk with a wrench couldn't do it out on the street.
Click to expand...

That's a good idea, but I think you need to tack the bolt to the perch so it won't back out. If you tac the nut the bolt would back right out and the tac would hold the nut in place.


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NME said:
Oh yeah I didn't even check fitting sizes. Thanks for bringing that up. Yeah I might end up doing that just to be safe. I might be being overly cautious, but a little extra security for something that takes less than 2 minutes seems like a worthy idea. Thanks again man.
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I'd like to see someone get a set of shocks off in 2 mins. King rears are a total pain...haha

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MericaMade said:
That's a good idea, but I think you need to tack the bolt to the perch so it won't back out. If you tac the nut the bolt would back right out and the tac would hold the nut in place.


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Doh! That's like the Big Lebowski when he props the chair under the door to wedge it in place and the door swings the other way.
 
NME said:
So I finally found a set of 2.5 Resi shocks from King and pulled the trigger. However, I really want to make sure they stay on my Jeep. Lol. Anyone on here have any locks/tricks that they use to ensure their shocks don't get jacked? I am sure I can MacGyver if I need to, but any suggestions are greatly appreciated.
Click to expand...

Use 10mm hardware, nobody has that socket


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