Sector Shaft 42mm Socket Problem

B

bumpy_baldwin

Member
Hey All,

2019 JLU: Trying to remove the sector shaft nut so I can install the sector shaft brace and no socket will fit the nut. I bought a Sunex 42mm socket (before I saw Eddie’s video with product links) and the socket will not slide all the way up. Just barely fits on the bottom of the nut but not enough to do anything. I then purchased Performance Tool 42mm socket to have the same problem. I did buy a 43mm but I’m afraid to use it.

Any suggestions? That is the only thing holding me up on this project.

Thanks
 
wayoflife said:
This ^^^

If you got a 43mm in a 6-point, just use it. You'll be fine.

1-11/16" works as well
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It’s a 6-point and BFH did the trick. Pain in the ass, but worked. Thanks everyone for the replies.

Side question cause I’m slowly chipping away at this death wobble. How do I check to see if my front axle is even? I installed the adjustable tie rod/drag link a year after the adjustable front track bar was installed with the 4” lift. Steering is straight, just wondering if it’s off by a little to still cause the wobble. My last step is to increase my axle angle to 6 degrees and hopefully all will be 100% or close as possible.

Thanks.
 
bumpy_baldwin said:
It’s a 6-point and BFH did the trick. Pain in the ass, but worked. Thanks everyone for the replies.

Side question cause I’m slowly chipping away at this death wobble. How do I check to see if my front axle is even? I installed the adjustable tie rod/drag link a year after the adjustable front track bar was installed with the 4” lift. Steering is straight, just wondering if it’s off by a little to still cause the wobble. My last step is to increase my axle angle to 6 degrees and hopefully all will be 100% or close as possible.

Thanks.
Click to expand...
Unless you smashed your axle into something, it's most likely straight and even if it weren't, that shouldn't cause DW. I can only assume you're installing a sector shaft brace and that should help things out, especially if you already have an iron steering box. Other than that, I would start looking at your ball joints next.
 
Here's something else to check. Steering stabilizer.

Even though it won't cure steering stability issues but mask them, a bad one CAN add to the issue.
 
TrailHunter said:
How can it "Add" to the issue? I always say take the stabilizer out of the equation and fix the problem. Otherwise you are just setting yourself up for a bigger failure.
Click to expand...

If the stabilizer is failing, it can cause non-normal oscillations in the steering. Hit a large bump or chuckhole while this is happening and it can turn into a violent looping affect. Take the stabilizer out of the mix and see what is TRULY happening.

Any worn part of the steering can cause unwanted vibrations and oscillations.
 
kevman65 said:
If the stabilizer is failing, it can cause non-normal oscillations in the steering. Hit a large bump or chuckhole while this is happening and it can turn into a violent looping affect. Take the stabilizer out of the mix and see what is TRULY happening.

Any worn part of the steering can cause unwanted vibrations and oscillations.
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I Get that.. I’m just saying it doesn’t Add.. its only un-masks it, if its bad. Personally I take mine off to make sure I fixed the issue. If everything is good.. I put it back on. Thats just me though.
 
TrailHunter said:
I Get that.. I’m just saying it doesn’t Add.. its only un-masks it, if its bad. Personally I take mine off to make sure I fixed the issue. If everything is good.. I put it back on. Thats just me though.
Click to expand...
kevman65 said:
Here's something else to check. Steering stabilizer.

Even though it won't cure steering stability issues but mask them, a bad one CAN add to the issue.
Click to expand...
I did switch to a TeraFlex 9550 or whatever stabilizer the same time the recall hit. Still had problems and put the factory replacement stabilizer back on for testing theory and it actually performed better which was weird to me. But I am on the hunt for an upgrade. Having troubles deciding if a pass through/centerline stabilizer will perform any better than a trusted brand IFP stabilizer.
 
bumpy_baldwin said:
I did switch to a TeraFlex 9550 or whatever stabilizer the same time the recall hit. Still had problems and put the factory replacement stabilizer back on for testing theory and it actually performed better which was weird to me. But I am on the hunt for an upgrade. Having troubles deciding if a pass through/centerline stabilizer will perform any better than a trusted brand IFP stabilizer.
Click to expand...
In my experience and having tested a myriad of stabilizers, OE is BEST.
 
wayoflife said:
Unless you smashed your axle into something, it's most likely straight and even if it weren't, that shouldn't cause DW. I can only assume you're installing a sector shaft brace and that should help things out, especially if you already have an iron steering box. Other than that, I would start looking at your ball joints next.
Click to expand...
Kk thanks. Had to ask, ya know. Been out of the game for a little while but happy to be back. If I still have troubles after I put the axles at 6 degrees, then heavy duty ball joints it will be.
 
kevman65 said:
If the stabilizer is failing, it can cause non-normal oscillations in the steering. Hit a large bump or chuckhole while this is happening and it can turn into a violent looping affect. Take the stabilizer out of the mix and see what is TRULY happening.

Any worn part of the steering can cause unwanted vibrations and oscillations.
Click to expand...
I haven’t tried removing the stabilizer and seeing what happens but I’ll definitely give it a try on side roads (too much highway construction to risk it). I did take off my shocks off a while back because they felt way too stiff on the road (Rubicon Express 3.5” Super Flex kit with 2.5 Extreme Duty Shocks) thinking that was another cause of wobble but nothing changed.
 
bumpy_baldwin said:
I haven’t tried removing the stabilizer and seeing what happens but I’ll definitely give it a try on side roads (too much highway construction to risk it). I did take off my shocks off a while back because they felt way too stiff on the road (Rubicon Express 3.5” Super Flex kit with 2.5 Extreme Duty Shocks) thinking that was another cause of wobble but nothing changed.
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Something else to try, while your jeep is sitting on level ground, weight on the wheels, loosen up control arm bolts and track bar bolts. Bounce the jeep around a bit, then retorque all bolts to factory specs. If one of those bushings is at a bind it can cause some issues.
 
I have a similar shimmy (wobble) I can’t seem to fix. I have a 2019 JLUR, 2” dynatrac lift, 35” tires. Installed steer smarts yeti xd sector shaft brace/track bar reinforcement bracket and a Clayton adjustable track bar to correct frame/body alignment.

Steering is tighter but still have occasional wobble. Bumpy, you will notice improvement in steering wheel response and that nut was a bear to get off.

Is my next step to upgrade tie rod/drag link/lower control arms? Not sure where to go.
I checked toe (toed in) and caster is about 4 degrees.

Thanks
 
The BM said:
I have a similar shimmy (wobble) I can’t seem to fix. I have a 2019 JLUR, 2” dynatrac lift, 35” tires. Installed steer smarts yeti xd sector shaft brace/track bar reinforcement bracket and a Clayton adjustable track bar to correct frame/body alignment.

Steering is tighter but still have occasional wobble. Bumpy, you will notice improvement in steering wheel response and that nut was a bear to get off.

Is my next step to upgrade tie rod/drag link/lower control arms? Not sure where to go.
I checked toe (toed in) and caster is about 4 degrees.

Thanks
Click to expand...
Welcome... I recommend you stop by the "give us a wave" section and introduce yerself

I battled track bar bushings for a while before I finally fixed my shimmy that developed into full death wobble.

A huge help is inspecting all of the steering linkage connections, see 3:50 in the video linked to this thread:
https://wayalife.com/threads/jl-jou...ts-setting-toe-recenter-steering-wheel.56651/

Lots of other things can induce vibration/shimmy too:
Tires - out of balance, cupped, broken belt/cord, or other tire issues can induce a shimmy

Caster - The JL (factory axle) will tolerate a little more caster than JK's because the FAD prevents the driveshaft from spinning while in 2wd. Extra caster can help with steering return to center, flighty feeling, and even shimmy or wobble

Track bar - The track bar is a big suspect for me any time I'm feeling a shimmy. Between loose track bar mounting bolts or worn bushings it has been my cause every time. Couple those issues with a bad stabilizer and death wobble starts, the violent shaking destroys other components quickly too. I've even had a bad rear track bar bushing cause a weird shake in the jeep.

Good luck
 
The BM said:
I have a similar shimmy (wobble) I can’t seem to fix. I have a 2019 JLUR, 2” dynatrac lift, 35” tires. Installed steer smarts yeti xd sector shaft brace/track bar reinforcement bracket and a Clayton adjustable track bar to correct frame/body alignment.

Steering is tighter but still have occasional wobble. Bumpy, you will notice improvement in steering wheel response and that nut was a bear to get off.

Is my next step to upgrade tie rod/drag link/lower control arms? Not sure where to go.
I checked toe (toed in) and caster is about 4 degrees.

Thanks
Click to expand...
I’ve always been a synergy manufacturing guy, but before I installed the sector shaft, I installed synergy’s tie rod/drag link kit and it did improve my wobble by 25-30%. Going from every bump to specific bumps to trigger the wobble. Now with the sector shaft brace installed, my steering strength is probably at 90-95%. It wants to wobble at times, but stops before actually happening. And I still have the factory steering


Honestly im not educated enough to know if adjustable control arms are needed for a 2” lift. I’ve always had 3.5” or more on my Jeeps. I believe once you hit 3” or more, that’s when you’ll need adjustable control arms to make sure the driveshaft angle is in-line. Max factory driveshaft angle is 5 degrees. My last goal is to get mine to 6 degrees and hope that fixes my problem 100%.

One thing to check is if your front tires are sitting out from the fender evenly. I used a L shaped square to measure against the fender to the outer edge of the tire. Just make sure the end points on the tires are the same.
 
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