MedixJK
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To my knowledge, they dont make a full kit of "short arms" because there really is no market for it.
Rock Krawler... Good buy or can a get a better bang for my buck?
- Thread starter mkphyathep
- Start date
Ddays
Hooked
I believe this is the key in getting this kit to work. HOWEVER, nowhere in the instructions does it even hint that this should be necessary. The fact that you had to figure out how to make it work says a lot about the
compatibility of the kit. Going out on a limb here, but if you knew that going in you probably would not have purchased that kit. Me either. I called and emailed an RK tech photos of my situation last year and was told "thats normal with this kit" Instructions I downloaded last week are different than what came with my kit. Here'a an illustration of what moving the axle back an inch does: I just took these 20 minutes ago on a logging road behind my house.
So the clearance I gained in the front was taken away in the back. The problem is just transferred to another location. I'm going to adjust the wheel to try to center it in the opening tomorrow & see how the clearances are.
OP - Main point to take away here is don't do the X-Factor kit unless you're prepared to dick around with it to get it to work. Stock length arm kit would be ok IMO.
MattAlpha
Caught the Bug
I've been running the RK 3.5 inch X-Factor Kit for the last two years now. Overall I like a lot AFTER I made the following modifications:
- Removed the RK track bars and mounts. Went back to OEM tracks bars with EVO track bar relocation mounts (front and rear). Ride quality dramatically improved.
- Fabricated and installed my own rear track bar body to move the rear track bar back an inch to match the "1-Stretch" from the kit. Now the rear track bar doesn't rub on the passenger side coil spring.
Now when I stuff the rear driver side tire, the track bar contacts the exhaust pipe...I could extend the bump stop more, but I'm going to install a Dynomax competition muffler that dumps in front of the axle so that problem will no longer exist.
I originally went with this kit without knowing about these problems. I was enticed by the triple rate coil springs all around and the components in the kit without knowing if I really needed them. The price was pretty good considering it replaced my entire suspension.
Take everyone's advice into consideration and try to ride with someone that has the kit you are looking at installed if at all possible.
- Removed the RK track bars and mounts. Went back to OEM tracks bars with EVO track bar relocation mounts (front and rear). Ride quality dramatically improved.
- Fabricated and installed my own rear track bar body to move the rear track bar back an inch to match the "1-Stretch" from the kit. Now the rear track bar doesn't rub on the passenger side coil spring.
Now when I stuff the rear driver side tire, the track bar contacts the exhaust pipe...I could extend the bump stop more, but I'm going to install a Dynomax competition muffler that dumps in front of the axle so that problem will no longer exist.
I originally went with this kit without knowing about these problems. I was enticed by the triple rate coil springs all around and the components in the kit without knowing if I really needed them. The price was pretty good considering it replaced my entire suspension.
Take everyone's advice into consideration and try to ride with someone that has the kit you are looking at installed if at all possible.
TrainWreck618
Caught the Bug
I own this kit also, and am in the process of upgrading and repairing things.. I am curious what you noticed improved when you went back to stock track bars?
MattAlpha
Caught the Bug
The main advantage of going back to the OEM track bars is that they allowed let me use the EVO track bar relocation brackets which are designed better. In my opinion, drive feel got noticeable better due to removing the heim joints that are one side of each RK track bars. Those joints provide great control and flex, but they also transfer all of the vibrations from the road into the body of the Jeep. The OEM track bars use rubber bushings on both sides and dampen much more the road vibrations. That is where the ride quality become noticeable better for me. I can't qualitatively define how much the ride quality improved, but to me it made a huge difference so much so that my wife noticed too.
Mike_JK_Houston_711
New member
Thanks for posting this up. I've been thinking about it, but now I'm going to throw my stock front and rear track bars back in. Currently, I have RK front and rear adjustables. Thanks man!
tgoss
New member
Doesn't really exist... I did Evo front lowers and rounded out the rest of the arms with Currie arms and front track bar with plush ride springs. I'm pretty happy so far but still have a little more to dial in this weekend.
rogerk93
New member
I have the Currie lift and I love their arms beefy as F and they don't disappoint
Big Bad Wolf
New member
Another vote for Currie.. Beefy with proven joints, both ends.
kentuckianajk
New member
sunnysideup
Active Member
I also have 8 of the x-factor RK arms... but bought them 6 of them used from a person wanting to go long arm. So I also bought used Currie 4 inch dual rate coils.... Ordered new ends on the RK arms and went to make a "franken lift" of sorts... it has parts from several vendors to find what would work right. I don't recommend doing it this way... lol. But I got a lot of quality parts very inexpensive as I put it together.
I got MT Goat spring wedges for the rear, jks lower rear spring keepers and teraflex top spring retainers, teraflex bump stops. rancho 4 inch lift links for the sway bar. JKS rear track bar... had to cut or trim here and there.
After the rear was all installed, I had to trim the pinch seams... splice the eghaust and have a newly bent section made to keep it from rubbing on drivers side- at full flex, and I had a small rub spot on a spring with the rear track bar nut... I rounded off one corner of the nut with a grinder to clear and it is good now. But it was a little bit of a pain getting the things measured right to work without hitting something. The new kit might be "plug and play"... but mine was not, but I assumed it was because the mixed part process I went through to build my kit part by part off of the forums and e-bay.
For the front I only had the complete lower arms, and just the front half of the RK arms... so I bought the metal cloak upper joints. A Metal Cloak front track bar, extended front track bar inks.
I did end up real close to the recommended length for each arm, and there is great articulation with the RK arms. I have been running this for about 3.5 years.
I thought I had to do so many little adjustments because it was not all a RK kit. But it sounds like it would be the same even with all their stuff.
I got MT Goat spring wedges for the rear, jks lower rear spring keepers and teraflex top spring retainers, teraflex bump stops. rancho 4 inch lift links for the sway bar. JKS rear track bar... had to cut or trim here and there.
After the rear was all installed, I had to trim the pinch seams... splice the eghaust and have a newly bent section made to keep it from rubbing on drivers side- at full flex, and I had a small rub spot on a spring with the rear track bar nut... I rounded off one corner of the nut with a grinder to clear and it is good now. But it was a little bit of a pain getting the things measured right to work without hitting something. The new kit might be "plug and play"... but mine was not, but I assumed it was because the mixed part process I went through to build my kit part by part off of the forums and e-bay.
For the front I only had the complete lower arms, and just the front half of the RK arms... so I bought the metal cloak upper joints. A Metal Cloak front track bar, extended front track bar inks.
I did end up real close to the recommended length for each arm, and there is great articulation with the RK arms. I have been running this for about 3.5 years.
I thought I had to do so many little adjustments because it was not all a RK kit. But it sounds like it would be the same even with all their stuff.
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mastrcruse
New member
Ive run a RK 3.5" "midarm" and just upgraded to their long arm kit.
First off, anyone that tells you not to buy their arms because they push your rear axle back is wrong. You now have the choice between the 1" and stock length so they've correctedand elimntaed the stretch to acoomdate the 2 doors (you can do it for the 4 doors too). Ive come down hard many time on my control arms and have never had a problem...after 40k miles and several wheeling trips.i guess I never sat there thinking "dang wish I had beefier joints".
There are some really good arms out there. I'd stick with Evo's or RK's for the simple fact they are the front runners in the industry and seem be to pulling further ahead of others. Pick your poison and either way you go, they'll last and you'll be happy. No matter what you get...make sure your installer knows how to install adjustable arms.
First off, anyone that tells you not to buy their arms because they push your rear axle back is wrong. You now have the choice between the 1" and stock length so they've correctedand elimntaed the stretch to acoomdate the 2 doors (you can do it for the 4 doors too). Ive come down hard many time on my control arms and have never had a problem...after 40k miles and several wheeling trips.i guess I never sat there thinking "dang wish I had beefier joints".
There are some really good arms out there. I'd stick with Evo's or RK's for the simple fact they are the front runners in the industry and seem be to pulling further ahead of others. Pick your poison and either way you go, they'll last and you'll be happy. No matter what you get...make sure your installer knows how to install adjustable arms.
303DAILY
New member
I have a friend that is running RK arms and seems to like them but it's a 4 door so he has not had any clearance issues but he kept stock front and rear track bars.
I'm running the enforcer and love it but I have bent my stock rear control arms twice on the pass side.
I'm going to get the JKS rear fixed length arms they look pretty nice so if you haven't checked them out you should.
I'm running the enforcer and love it but I have bent my stock rear control arms twice on the pass side.
I'm going to get the JKS rear fixed length arms they look pretty nice so if you haven't checked them out you should.
DRTYRAT30
New member
My opinion on the 1" stretch is it centers the wheel in the well. When you have a swing axis style control arm the higher the jeep suspension goes up the more the wheel comes forward towards the front of the jeep. With the 3.5" lift the 1" stretch help push the wheel back to more of a stock location. With my 15' the front pinch is already trimmed from factory and all I had to do is trim the rear pinch to match and I am able to stuff the wheel centered without contact.
But like everyone says it takes planning and a lot of work to get this X-factor kit right. Definitely not a bolt on and go thing. But I am happy with how it all worked out. But like I said one day I will move up to a evo/King coil over setup.
But like everyone says it takes planning and a lot of work to get this X-factor kit right. Definitely not a bolt on and go thing. But I am happy with how it all worked out. But like I said one day I will move up to a evo/King coil over setup.
mastrcruse
New member
If you get an installer that knows what they are doing you will have ZERO problems with RK shit on a 2 door. It is a mute point and was true on the old arms. The new arms allow more options but many are referring to the old kits. With older kits you'll have to be cautious but the new ones can be setup perfectly.
Jtvegas
New member
I have the 3.5 X factor kit and it's been all good. Great flex and really impressed with the highway feel. As for the track bar just slightly angled it and doesn't hit aftermarket diff cover. The most important thing is just make sure all Krawler joints are vertical and torqued properly and they will not move. 