Rhino Rubicon Unlimited Build

That's true, I do need to get my self a present. Now what to get is the question? Lol


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Take a look at the Evo oil pan and transmission skid. Relatively cheap insurance for vital components. I think both pieces together would set you back about $200. You can install them both in about an hour or less.
 
Take a look at the Evo oil pan and transmission skid. Relatively cheap insurance for vital components. I think both pieces together would set you back about $200. You can install them both in about an hour or less.

The oil pan skid was on my short list. Didn't have the transmission skid on there yet, but I know I should do it. I will most likely do these after I get a new driveshaft since I ripped my boot. Have you ever hit your transmission skid?


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The oil pan skid was on my short list. Didn't have the transmission skid on there yet, but I know I should do it. I will most likely do these after I get a new driveshaft since I ripped my boot. Have you ever hit your transmission skid?


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No, I haven't but I'm on the East coast so less rocks. On auto trans JKs, there's an exposed transmission line that could easily snag on a rock or limb and you'd be toast. I did my oil and trans skids at the same time and it was cake. Evo also makes a skid for your crossmember, but you can beat that up pretty bad and it won't leave you stranded.

For driveshafts you can either go with 1310 or 1350 joints. The 1310 will be a single cardan and the 1350 will be a double. It's about a $200 difference between the two, but I did the 1350 for the peace of mind. (The factory shaft is equivalent to a 1330 so I couldn't bring myself to go weaker than stock pushing 37's)

JE Reel, Adams and Tom Woods are all good names and you can't go wrong.
 
No, I haven't but I'm on the East coast so less rocks. On auto trans JKs, there's an exposed transmission line that could easily snag on a rock or limb and you'd be toast. I did my oil and trans skids at the same time and it was cake. Evo also makes a skid for your crossmember, but you can beat that up pretty bad and it won't leave you stranded.

For driveshafts you can either go with 1310 or 1350 joints. The 1310 will be a single cardan and the 1350 will be a double. It's about a $200 difference between the two, but I did the 1350 for the peace of mind. (The factory shaft is equivalent to a 1330 so I couldn't bring myself to go weaker than stock pushing 37's)

JE Reel, Adams and Tom Woods are all good names and you can't go wrong.

Thans for the input. I will definitely be getting those before doing any more trails.

As you did, I'm gonna go with the 1350. I don't see why I would downgrade in joint strength. Will most likely order the Adams at the end of this month or next month.
 
I gotcha. This is a 2016 so it was already trimmed from the factory. I think they started doing this after 2013?


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Mines a '15, and with 2.5" lift I cut and beat the seam back even more than the factory cut but still hit with 37s

I'm installing some Currie arms shortly and will add a little length to try and push the tire back

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Mines a '15, and with 2.5" lift I cut and beat the seam back even more than the factory cut but still hit with 37s

I'm installing some Currie arms shortly and will add a little length to try and push the tire back

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Interesting. I had the rear tire stuffed into the fender well last week, but don't have a pic of it.


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The oil pan skid was on my short list. Didn't have the transmission skid on there yet, but I know I should do it. I will most likely do these after I get a new driveshaft since I ripped my boot. Have you ever hit your transmission skid?


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Yes I have and glad I had a plate fitted . I was fast driving in the desert and hit a rock. As most of my driving is on sand I run aluminium armour but it protects the engine and transmission fine. Up front I have a guard for the rubi disconnect and steering protection. This acts like a snow plough in deep sand but the protection is there if I need it.


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Yes I have and glad I had a plate fitted . I was fast driving in the desert and hit a rock. As most of my driving is on sand I run aluminium armour but it protects the engine and transmission fine. Up front I have a guard for the rubi disconnect and steering protection. This acts like a snow plough in deep sand but the protection is there if I need it.


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Thanks for the info. I will definitely move those up in my list of parts to purchase. Looks like they are more of a priority than I thought.


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Well since I value everyones opinion on here I ended up getting myself a birthday present; well 2 to be exact. I ordered these parts Saturday mid day and they arrived today. I will have some installed pictures hopefully this weekend.

EVO Mfg Oil pan skid and Trans skid.

Congrats David! Most of us have had luck installing the oil pan skid without draining the oil first. There's a seal from the factory that should keep the oil pan on as long as you don't jostle it. The hardest part for me was getting the ear in place for the trans skid.

Here's a link to the Wayalife write up to help you - EVO MFG 2012 JK ProTeK Skid System Installation Write Up
 
Congrats David! Most of us have had luck installing the oil pan skid without draining the oil first. There's a seal from the factory that should keep the oil pan on as long as you don't jostle it. The hardest part for me was getting the ear in place for the trans skid.

Here's a link to the Wayalife write up to help you - EVO MFG 2012 JK ProTeK Skid System Installation Write Up

LOL!! I was just about to post up that link :D
 
Congrats David! Most of us have had luck installing the oil pan skid without draining the oil first. There's a seal from the factory that should keep the oil pan on as long as you don't jostle it. The hardest part for me was getting the ear in place for the trans skid.

Here's a link to the Wayalife write up to help you - EVO MFG 2012 JK ProTeK Skid System Installation Write Up

Thanks for posting that! Will be getting it done this weekend. Appreciate all the help.


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