Researching before buying

Warrior's Lance said:
Another thing to worry about is that Rubicon sticker on the hood may be fake. Get the VIN and go to this Chrysler webpage and insert that VIN and get an original build sheet:

http://jeep.custhelp.com/app/jeep/eqlisting_detail/

It will tell you which model it is and what it had on it when it left Toledo. I recent found a Sahara with a Rubicon decal on the hood, fortunately, it was being sold as a Sahara. I have seen many non-Rubicons listed as a Rubicon on a sales website that are not. Buyer beware!
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Ya, I've run into this already. People suck sometimes.

I bookmarked the web page you gave me. Thanks
 
ScoobyCarolanNC said:
Lol. That said, the transmission cooler lines on the 3.8 leak at the joint where they switch from rubber to steel. Pain in the ass $150 2 to 3 hour repair. I've had no issues otherwise & owned it from 68 to 91000 miles.


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Good to know. Thanks


Heavyhaul07 said:
I'd go with the 2012 newer. Pro rock 44 front axle swap. 4" enforcer evo lift w king 2.5 37" inch tires. Hydro assist steering.


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Thanks, I'll look those up.


J-VET said:
I had a great time on the Rubicon running a 2.5 RK lift and 35s on our 2011 Rubicon with the addition of Sliders, bumpers, skids and recovery gear. The 3.8 works great for us, but if I had to deal with Texas mud I may favor the 3.6.


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I'm looking to find out all about that mud. I hope in a good way.



Thanks all.
 
I would start out with a JKU from the 3.6VVT years. They have a fairy large power advantage over the 3.8's. I wouldn't get too hung up on the Rubicon vs other trim levels but realize the Rubi does come with some really nice features that the others don't have - lockers, sway bar disconnect, & a nicer T-Case. Throw a 2.5" lift on along with a good set of 35" tires, maybe a re-gear and you'll be able to do 95% of the stuff out there.
 
I haven't read all comments , so apologize if I repeat.

25K isn't a lot for a JK, but... doesn't mean you can't find one for that and start off-road excursions right away if you are selective and patient with base purchase.

A base sport 4x4 JK will do fine with a winch small lift, fender trim, and 35's. Then wheel it and learn how to drive. Take easy lines and watch the built rigs to see what works, and how you might build your rig.

Buy a 4x2 JK as cheap as possible, put in garage and strip it down for rebuild. 25K should be sufficient for a nice build.

Buy a Jeep, but look at something other than JK. Example, I had a road worthy Jeep MJ (Comanche) long bed with AC. Chopped 1 foot off of bed, junk yard Dana 44's, Craig's list (brand new) 38" swampers on 15x10 wheels, spool in the rear, lock-rite automatic locker up front. I had $3500 in that jeep, and it looked and drove great on the road to a trail, and was ridiculously capable off-road.

My 2 cents buy something you can use right away, or in short amount of time. I had a lot of fun with the $3500 Comanche, but my 2016 JKU Rubicon I absolutely love!! And it's stick right now.


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Stock rubicon I meant to say. Personally I would stay away from a totaled rig. Papers to get a license to drive on the road is a pain in the but to attain, I've done that before, and there are days where you will want the top down to cruise to the local coffee shop. Don't buy a totaled rig.


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My advise is to buy a 2012 and up JKU and drive it the way it is. Since this will be your first Jeep there are many things to learn. I have been driving Jeeps for 20+ years and I'm still learning. I understand you want a built rig, but that will come. See what's important.


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If I were to do it again, I would buy an early model JK because I ended up rebuilding the rear axle when I did gears, locker and shafts. I also replaced the front with a PR44. On top of that, I've replaced all the suspension components. I could have paid a lot less with an older JK and still have the same setup I do today.

But if you like to go fast then the 3.8 isn't for you. Overall I've been happy with it. It's reliable, gets me around town and the trail easy enough.

Right now I have roughly 15k invested in my Jeep. 37s, beadlocks, 3.5" RK lift, bumpers, winch, sliders, PR44 with lockers and gears. Driveshaft, etc...I feel like my jeep would be able to accomplish the Rubicon. Hopefully next year I get the chance to. IMG_3359.JPG


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XJADDICTION said:
Stock rubicon I meant to say. Personally I would stay away from a totaled rig. Papers to get a license to drive on the road is a pain in the but to attain, I've done that before, and there are days where you will want the top down to cruise to the local coffee shop. Don't buy a totaled rig.


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I put the salvage title thing into the mix because OP stated he was "extremely mechanically inclined" and had the tools for special/big stuff. For the average Joe, no, it is best to not get a salvage title vehicle. Carfax exists because of unscrupulous dealers that sold fixed wrecks, if I remember right. And no one should get flood damage vehicle, I have heard/read that the gremlins last forever. I would not buy one with a damaged tub or frame. It is rare to find a salvage vehicle that fits my level of ability to fix, therefore I gave up looking quite some time ago. The OP says he has ability and tools, so I offered up the idea, but in general, I agree with you, don't.
 
Fwiw I've seen a 2012 JKU with a 3" lift and 35's on Craigslist for $25k. I probably would have bought it except I really wanted the 3.6L motor and not the 3.8. But you could probably find a used JKU built up just enough to get you started and then you can change the mods you don't like. A lot of us like starting from stock though so you may be the same way.


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ChiliDawg said:
Fwiw I've seen a 2012 JKU with a 3" lift and 35's on Craigslist for $25k. I probably would have bought it except I really wanted the 3.6L motor and not the 3.8. But you could probably find a used JKU built up just enough to get you started and then you can change the mods you don't like. A lot of us like starting from stock though so you may be the same way.


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2012's have a 3.6...


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25 wont get you much

nice out today, sunny and 35 so I went over to the local stealer to check out whats new, boring colors and a new model called the Red Rock for only 60 $$$$$$grand, loved the leather seats tho.:icon_crazy:
 
Krazzyk01 said:
Yes, we’re trying to stay around that 25k figure. I do understand that severely limits what I can do.
However, that’s a number we’re looking at for either the first Jeep we can start out with right away with OR, the Jeep we get that needs some work before going into anything more than basic off roading.

My only Jeep experience has been with my brother in his 2014 Unlimited Rubicon. I went and looked at a LJ yesterday and I was shocked at how small they are. I’m 6’4” and not small. So I was completely against the door and over half way across the center console. I didn’t mind it other than that but it made me realize my only option is a JK.

That said, I’m trying to take heed of some of the warnings I’ve gotten from other Jeepers and stay away from known issues. The Penestar engine is supposed to be far better than the previous engine, the interiors are much nicer after the Italians got involved and now I’m hearing the 2011-12 have some engine issues with the heads.

The end goal is to build it once, maintain it and not keep upgrading again and again. If I’m going to do it I want to do it right the first time. So I want to build/buy a solid foundation and play with all the accessories later. Hence my axles up idea.
End game is to sit on at least 35’s max 37’s. Nothing bigger than that. Solid drivetrain and suspension to handle some enthusiastic driving off road without being stupid about it. I have no entention of setting records or having the baddest rig on the playing field. Just a solid rig I can play with and repair what I occasionally break.

Gotta run for now. I’ll check back in a bit.

Thanks again everyone for your information. I’m learning
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I think your still mixing up your years. 2011s had a 202hp 3.8L. 2012 was the first year for the 3.6L, and was the engine folks were having head issues with. I had a 2013 with the 3.6 and went through 3 water pumps, a pinion seal and transmission tube recall all in the first year. I believe what others are warning you about is to stay away from 2012-2013 JKs due to issues those engines were having.

If it were me, I would go with a 2011 or below for the value and build it if it's not going to be a daily driver. I guess where I am confused still is does your 15K budget include the purchase price of the vehicle and build? If so, that's not much at all.


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woof359 said:
2012 and up are Pentstar 3.6 wit heads issues and special anti freeze
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They corrected those problems in 2014. I've had two 3.6's now. A 14 & a 16, no issues, well....that GD shifter bushing went out in my 16'
$100 dollar fix, but it was covered under warranty.
I think that'll be a recall.



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“Our Country won’t go on forever, if we stay soft as we are now. There won’t be any America because some foreign soldiery will invade us and take our women and breed a hardier race!”
– Lt. Gen. Lewis B. “Chesty” Puller, USMC
 
BlackDiamond_JKU said:
They corrected those problems in 2014. I've had two 3.6's now. A 14 & a 16, no issues, well....that GD shifter bushing went out in my 16'
$100 dollar fix, but it was covered under warranty.
I think that'll be a recall.



----------------

“Our Country won’t go on forever, if we stay soft as we are now. There won’t be any America because some foreign soldiery will invade us and take our women and breed a hardier race!”
– Lt. Gen. Lewis B. “Chesty” Puller, USMC
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I got a customer satisfaction notice For the gear shifter bushing on my 16 was in and out within a few hours


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You could buy a Sport model, and build slowly, as your budget allows. They are cheaper, and way more capable than most would believe, until they take it off road.


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