Replacing Passanger HUB every 6 months

jeeeep

jeeeep

Hooked
Need some ideas on what might be causing my passenger side HUB to wear out so fast.

I've now replaced it 4 times at about 6 month intervals.

My dash ABS, EPS lit up on my way back from New Mexico @80-85mph- thought it might be clock-spring since cruise control stopped working.

Once I got home I was back on freeway again the following day @65-70mph

I felt a slight wobble on my way home and when I made the turn onto my street I heard the scraping sound.

Jacked it up and the passenger side was so loose it took no effort to move the wheel with one hand...like a very loose tooth :icon_crazy:

Axle is PR44, I don't think it's bent. I think I would have other issues if it were?

Dynatrac ProSteer ball joints.

Rancho knuckles.

Luckily the hubs have been replaced under warranty but it's too suspicious that it's only the passenger side and at about every 6 months.

I feel incredibly lucky that I didn't loose that wheel considering the speeds I was traveling at. :doh:
 
jeeeep said:
Need some ideas on what might be causing my passenger side HUB to wear out so fast.

I've now replaced it 4 times at about 6 month intervals.

My dash ABS, EPS lit up on my way back from New Mexico @80-85mph- thought it might be clock-spring since cruise control stopped working.

Once I got home I was back on freeway again the following day @65-70mph

I felt a slight wobble on my way home and when I made the turn onto my street I heard the scraping sound.

Jacked it up and the passenger side was so loose it took no effort to move the wheel with one hand...like a very loose tooth :icon_crazy:

Axle is PR44, I don't think it's bent. I think I would have other issues if it were?

Dynatrac ProSteer ball joints.

Rancho knuckles.

Luckily the hubs have been replaced under warranty but it's too suspicious that it's only the passenger side and at about every 6 months.

I feel incredibly lucky that I didn't loose that wheel considering the speeds I was traveling at. :doh:
Click to expand...

I was running into the exact same issue until the unit bearing finally failed on me with almost no sign, a combination of bad roads and having hydro assist. I was traveling and was pulling off the highway to get gas. My brakes went to the floor but I was able to build pressure again to stop. the unit bearing was screeching and whining as I was slowing down, i was able to make it to an autozone and they had one in stock, I also had to replace the brake pads. I was replacing them with timken unit bearings, the one that failed was a timken.

IMG_3798.jpg

I just don’t think the unit bearings can handle the 37s. I was also running a PR44/ProSteers/highsteer knuckles.
 
Speedy_RCW said:
You also have to go to 5x5.5 pattern and get your rotors machined to accept the change.


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Click to expand...

wjtstudios said:
Correct, new wheels, brakes, 5 on 5.5 rear shafts. It’s a Pandora’s box. Thats probably why we haven’t seen anyone post up with them yet. But it’s interesting


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Click to expand...

Aaaaand there-in lies the biggest rub. It's a shitload of parts to replace to gain some longevity. I don't know that it'd be worth it in the long run. Rear shafts shouldn't be an issue but I'd have to re-drill the rotors to the 5x5.5 (Dynatrac already said that's no problem) new wheels would be the biggest deal. Christ if I bought another set of wheels I'd probably get skinned. :crazyeyes:
 
Benito said:
I was running into the exact same issue until the unit bearing finally failed on me with almost no sign, a combination of bad roads and having hydro assist. I was traveling and was pulling off the highway to get gas. My brakes went to the floor but I was able to build pressure again to stop. the unit bearing was screeching and whining as I was slowing down, i was able to make it to an autozone and they had one in stock, I also had to replace the brake pads. I was replacing them with timken unit bearings, the one that failed was a timken.

View attachment 313268

I just don’t think the unit bearings can handle the 37s. I was also running a PR44/ProSteers/highsteer knuckles.
Click to expand...

I started changing mine yearly now because of this potential.
 
while It sucks, good to hear I'm not the only one.

I tried Timken same result. I also read an article that Timken has 2 models of hubs and one is stronger than the other...have not been able to confirm

The 37's may be the issue. It happened with the KO2 but now more frequent with the wider Coopers.

Time for 35's and new wheels! lol
 
jeeeep said:
Need some ideas on what might be causing my passenger side HUB to wear out so fast.

I've now replaced it 4 times at about 6 month intervals.

My dash ABS, EPS lit up on my way back from New Mexico @80-85mph- thought it might be clock-spring since cruise control stopped working.

Once I got home I was back on freeway again the following day @65-70mph

I felt a slight wobble on my way home and when I made the turn onto my street I heard the scraping sound.

Jacked it up and the passenger side was so loose it took no effort to move the wheel with one hand...like a very loose tooth :icon_crazy:

Axle is PR44, I don't think it's bent. I think I would have other issues if it were?

Dynatrac ProSteer ball joints.

Rancho knuckles.

Luckily the hubs have been replaced under warranty but it's too suspicious that it's only the passenger side and at about every 6 months.

I feel incredibly lucky that I didn't loose that wheel considering the speeds I was traveling at. :doh:
Click to expand...

How many miles are you putting on it in 6 months ? I have the same setup and about to get 37s. Guess I need to keep a spare handy just in case.


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Benito said:
I was running into the exact same issue until the unit bearing finally failed on me with almost no sign, a combination of bad roads and having hydro assist. I was traveling and was pulling off the highway to get gas. My brakes went to the floor but I was able to build pressure again to stop. the unit bearing was screeching and whining as I was slowing down, i was able to make it to an autozone and they had one in stock, I also had to replace the brake pads. I was replacing them with timken unit bearings, the one that failed was a timken.

View attachment 313268

I just don’t think the unit bearings can handle the 37s. I was also running a PR44/ProSteers/highsteer knuckles.
Click to expand...

Did you pull the seal off to expose the bearings for the photo?


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Red Knight15 said:
How many miles are you putting on it in 6 months ? I have the same setup and about to get 37s. Guess I need to keep a spare handy just in case.


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Click to expand...

I always carry a spare and tools to change it. I’ve had some last for years and others less than a month. Interesting idea on the hubs though. My wheels and rotors are already dual drilled for 5 on 5.5 so might be worth trying out. Hmmm.


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jeeeep said:
Need some ideas on what might be causing my passenger side HUB to wear out so fast.

I've now replaced it 4 times at about 6 month intervals.

My dash ABS, EPS lit up on my way back from New Mexico @80-85mph- thought it might be clock-spring since cruise control stopped working.

Once I got home I was back on freeway again the following day @65-70mph

I felt a slight wobble on my way home and when I made the turn onto my street I heard the scraping sound.

Jacked it up and the passenger side was so loose it took no effort to move the wheel with one hand...like a very loose tooth :icon_crazy:

Axle is PR44, I don't think it's bent. I think I would have other issues if it were?

Dynatrac ProSteer ball joints.

Rancho knuckles.

Luckily the hubs have been replaced under warranty but it's too suspicious that it's only the passenger side and at about every 6 months.

I feel incredibly lucky that I didn't loose that wheel considering the speeds I was traveling at. :doh:
Click to expand...

The problem is that you're running wheels with too little back spacing. Factory is 6.25" and anything less than this will put a LOT more strain on your bearings and ball joints. Being that you're running ProSteers, they should be able to handle the stress better but if you're running wheels with 4" or even 3.5" of back spacing like most guys like to run, replacing your unit bearings is something you'll have to get used to. This is a BIG part of why we wanted to go wide on Rubicat. By running 72.5" Dynatrac axles, we were able to run wheels with 5.5" of back spacing and in addition to protecting our ball joints and keeping our bearings lasting a long time, steering was greatly improved and we also got a much better turning radius out of it too. :yup:
 
wayoflife said:
The problem is that you're running wheels with too little back spacing. Factory is 6.25" and anything less than this will put a LOT more strain on your bearings and ball joints. Being that you're running ProSteers, they should be able to handle the stress better but if you're running wheels with 4" or even 3.5" of back spacing like most guys like to run, replacing your unit bearings is something you'll have to get used to. This is a BIG part of why we wanted to go wide on Rubicat. By running 72.5" Dynatrac axles, we were able to run wheels with 5.5" of back spacing and in addition to protecting our ball joints and keeping our bearings lasting a long time, steering was greatly improved and we also got a much better turning radius out of it too. :yup:
Click to expand...

So you're gonna have the same problem with those Spyntech hubs, although they may be a little stronger than the stock unit bearings.
 
wayoflife said:
The problem is that you're running wheels with too little back spacing. Factory is 6.25" and anything less than this will put a LOT more strain on your bearings and ball joints. Being that you're running ProSteers, they should be able to handle the stress better but if you're running wheels with 4" or even 3.5" of back spacing like most guys like to run, replacing your unit bearings is something you'll have to get used to. This is a BIG part of why we wanted to go wide on Rubicat. By running 72.5" Dynatrac axles, we were able to run wheels with 5.5" of back spacing and in addition to protecting our ball joints and keeping our bearings lasting a long time, steering was greatly improved and we also got a much better turning radius out of it too. :yup:
Click to expand...

Good information. [emoji1303]


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