Red Rock Rubicon Rebuild (2 door)
- Thread starter bones37
- Start date
bones37
Member
I have done a lot of dramatic changes in the past year since I have spent a lot of time in my home and new garage. I haven’t had the chance to wheel a lot with the kids having activities and another on the way.
Here are some of the things I addressed to start Stage 3:
Crown brake lines
Evap relocation
OEM muffler removal / Dynomax chambered exhaust install
TEN Factory rear chromoly axle shafts
Here are some of the things I addressed to start Stage 3:
Crown brake lines
Evap relocation
OEM muffler removal / Dynomax chambered exhaust install
TEN Factory rear chromoly axle shafts
bones37
Member
You may have noticed in the post above that my tail lights and bumper are different. I had a busted light and wasn’t ready to armor the rear, so I got a set of Rockridge LED plates/lights. I also sold the Or-Fab bumper for an EVO Fascia plate for the minimalist look.
I decided to match the fronts with the rears, so in went new front TEN Factory axle shafts and Timken hubs.
I decided to match the fronts with the rears, so in went new front TEN Factory axle shafts and Timken hubs.
CarolinaJK
New member
Awesome thread so far! Consider me subscribed!
bones37
Member
A few more, including the two piece track bar relocation bracket that needed to be welded up.
Replaced the front leaking pinion seal while I was down there.
..And finally, a garage shot with new Rugged Ridge mirrors. I run these permanently now with doors on or off. I have about 8 months on them now and they have been solid.
Replaced the front leaking pinion seal while I was down there.
..And finally, a garage shot with new Rugged Ridge mirrors. I run these permanently now with doors on or off. I have about 8 months on them now and they have been solid.
bones37
Member
I installed a Synergy drag link flip kit after the truss, which required drilling out the knuckle. The rusted draglink I removed was the second one on the Jeep, not even stock! I also removed the factory e-disco sway bar and replaced it with a standard sway bar. I also manually disconnect, so this was purely a cosmetic decision.
bones37
Member
It didn’t take long to start leaving my spare on the trail as I came down on it pretty hard a few times. After trying unsuccessfully to trade/seek out interest for someone to trade their non-jerry can Or-Fab carrier for my jerry can version, I decided to remove it all together.
I have a patch kit and an air compressor on board, as well as a full set of tools I keep in the rear cubby. On long trips, I started placing the spare in the rear. I no longer run it around town. I have about 50,000 on the Toyos and have never had an issue with punctures.
I loved the simple look, but I didn’t like how much the bumper stood out. After selling the tire carrier, I parted with the Evo fascia plate as well.
I was looking hard at the Poison Spyder BFH rear bumper, but ended up going with a Crawler Conceptz skinny rear. They have an integrated hitch receiver built in which is perfect for me to use my bike carrier. This required me to do more cutting (remove the rear frame rail connection) and also weld some bolts to my Or-Fab plate to secure my license plate. I retained and rewired the Liteplate LED license plate light that I was using with the tire carrier.
I have a patch kit and an air compressor on board, as well as a full set of tools I keep in the rear cubby. On long trips, I started placing the spare in the rear. I no longer run it around town. I have about 50,000 on the Toyos and have never had an issue with punctures.
I loved the simple look, but I didn’t like how much the bumper stood out. After selling the tire carrier, I parted with the Evo fascia plate as well.
I was looking hard at the Poison Spyder BFH rear bumper, but ended up going with a Crawler Conceptz skinny rear. They have an integrated hitch receiver built in which is perfect for me to use my bike carrier. This required me to do more cutting (remove the rear frame rail connection) and also weld some bolts to my Or-Fab plate to secure my license plate. I retained and rewired the Liteplate LED license plate light that I was using with the tire carrier.
bones37
Member
The most recent upgrade the Jeep has seen is an upgrade to the coils. I wanted to see if there was any hype to Rock Krawler’s Triple Rate coils as they have been out for awhile. I opted to replace my 2.5’s with 3.5’s, but remove my body lift. Overall, I honestly don’t notice much of a ride difference. The ride height is the same since I removed the body lift. The flex and down-travel is much greater. If I didn’t have retainers, I don’t think these springs would be popping out like my 2.5’s used to.
I also replaced my IPF aux. driving lights with Rigid LED lights.
For good measure, I have also included a shot of my trusty hockey puck bump stops. I am running Synergy rear bump stops. 3” front and back.
I also replaced my IPF aux. driving lights with Rigid LED lights.
For good measure, I have also included a shot of my trusty hockey puck bump stops. I am running Synergy rear bump stops. 3” front and back.
bones37
Member
I think that catches everything up. I still have the rear truss sitting in the garage that I need to install. I also have some front control arm skids that I need to weld on as well.
So far, the stock drive shafts are holding up ok. My front started slinging oil years ago, but it’s still working. At some point, I’ll get a longer rear and stretch the back a little more. I’m not sure about a full on comp cut, but I am looking at another few inches and will probably add some rear fender armor around the same time.
Everything handles great, but I plan on raising the rear track bar when I install the rear truss.
I’ll be due for new tires next year and will be going to 38’s. I have to be mindful of steering, so I won’t go any wider.
I’m probably forgetting a few things and have a lot more pictures, so let me know if there is anything you want to see.
So far, the stock drive shafts are holding up ok. My front started slinging oil years ago, but it’s still working. At some point, I’ll get a longer rear and stretch the back a little more. I’m not sure about a full on comp cut, but I am looking at another few inches and will probably add some rear fender armor around the same time.
Everything handles great, but I plan on raising the rear track bar when I install the rear truss.
I’ll be due for new tires next year and will be going to 38’s. I have to be mindful of steering, so I won’t go any wider.
I’m probably forgetting a few things and have a lot more pictures, so let me know if there is anything you want to see.
JKbrick
Active Member
I would like to see when you stretched the rear, if or how you relocated where the track bar attaches to the frame back, and did you move the coil mounts?
