Rear Sway Bar Questions

[MR.Ty]

So the options are either softer springs or, wait for it...a less stiff sway bar! They combine in their effects on wheel rate.

I mean this is like the never ending debate in sports cars. Stiff springs or stiff sway bar...

How does a soft spring rate effect articulation when it is a bump stop that stops up travel and springs do not typically attach to the axle housing unless you are using spring retainers? Are you saying that by using spring retainers you are limiting your flex? :thinking::crazyeyes:

 

[wayoflife]

So the options are either softer springs or, wait for it...a less stiff sway bar! They combine in their effects on wheel rate.

:cheesy: As I have been saying from the very beginning, I have seen articulation being limited with a much heavier torsion rate Currie Antirock but never with a flimsy factory rear sway bar that you can easily manipulate by hand or at least, not on my Jeeps. If you're unable to get a full bump/droop with your flimsy factory rear sway bar, your coils are TOO STIFF. But then, that's just my opinion, what would I know.

I mean this is like the never ending debate in sports cars. Stiff springs or stiff sway bar...

Funny, didn't know we were talking about sports cars. :thinking:

 

[chitown35]

How does a soft spring rate effect articulation when it is a bump stop that stops up travel and springs do not typically attach to the axle housing unless you are using spring retainers? Are you saying that by using spring retainers you are limiting your flex? :thinking::crazyeyes:

Think of it this way...if your combined wheel rate (springs and sway bar) is infinitely firm, you will never get any uptravel. So on real springs do you have a hard "limit"? No. But a practical one? Yes.

 

[wayoflife]

:cheesy: I just looked at your profile and see that you're a Metalcloak Game Changer guy and with 6-pak shocks to boot. Clearly, the problem has to be your factory rear sway bar and the reason why you almost flopped your Jeep.

 

[chitown35]

As I have been saying from the very beginning, I have seen articulation being limited with a much heavier torsion rate Currie Antirock but never with a flimsy factory rear sway bar that you can easily manipulate by hand. But then, what would I know.

So if the anti rock torsion rate combined with some soft spring rate can be too high, why can't the stock torsion rate combined with a different firmer spring rate be too high?

 

[NevadaZielmeister]

It all depends on how long your limiting straps are and how tall your bump stop extensions are.

Thank you Eddie. Sometimes the obvious answer is the best answer. I figured that there is always something limiting our flex, whether its the sway bar, the shock springs, the frame, the bumper stop extensions, etc. Remove one obstacle, another gets in the way.

The question now is how much do you change the straps and bump stop extensions? From my experience in the field actually wheeling, the compressed wheel is really against almost the fender. So my attention would turn to the limiting straps. How can I tell I have room to make those longer? Is it even worth it? What are some things to consider and look out for?

Here is where I started feeling that rocking motion. It was clear that I had reached the maximum flex/articulation for my rig:

 

[wayoflife]

So if the anti rock torsion rate combined with some soft spring rate can be too high, why can't the stock torsion rate combined with a different firmer spring rate be too high?

Apparently, it can be if you're running stiff ass Metalcloak springs.

 

[wayoflife]

Thank you Eddie. Sometimes the obvious answer is the best answer. I figured that there is always something limiting our flex, whether its the sway bar, the shock springs, the frame, the bumper stop extensions, etc. Remove one obstacle, another gets in the way.

The question now is how much do you change the straps and bump stop extensions? From my experience in the field actually wheeling, the compressed wheel is really against almost the fender. So my attention would turn to the limiting straps. How can I tell I have room to make those longer? Is it even worth it? What are some things to consider and look out for?

Here is where I started feeling that rocking motion. It was clear that I had reached the maximum flex/articulation for my rig:

Depends on what you're willing to sacrifice or deal with. EVO likes to sell Antirocks with their DTD because the factory rear sway bar is so soft that it warps and will make contact with your frame rail. This is no big deal to me but it will make a loud sound and that offended a lot of their customers. Plus, a factor rear sway bar just doesn't look sexy on a high dollar lift kit and most DTD owners can't have that. Of course, if big flex is really all you care about, you could remove or reduce your bump stop extensions so that your tires get torn up on the fenders at a full bump and you can remove your limiting straps so that your drive shaft binds at a full droop. These are all choices you can make.

 

[wayoflife]

Check it out - I almost flopped my Jeep. It must have been the damn factory rear sway bar!

 

[notnalc68]

Think of it this way...if your combined wheel rate (springs and sway bar) is infinitely firm, you will never get any uptravel. So on real springs do you have a hard "limit"? No. But a practical one? Yes.

Have you removed your sway bar and tested the flex?


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[chitown35]

Check it out - I almost flopped my Jeep. It must have been the damn factory rear sway bar!

A little different predicament than I was in, but take it off and see if you do better there next time - you never know until you try!

 

[NevadaZielmeister]

EVO likes to sell Antirocks with their DTD because the factory rear sway bar is so soft that it warps and will make contact with your frame rail. This is no big deal to me but it will make a loud sound and that offended a lot of their customers.

The funny thing is, with the King Air/EVO MFG Bump Stop Extensions notched into the frame, the Currie Anti-Rock rubs against the tubes/extensions anyways. No worries for me either, given I just put some grease where it rubs and call it good.

 

[chitown35]

Have you removed your sway bar and tested the flex?


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Yes I have. For me my suspension works better without the bar.

 

[chitown35]

:cheesy: I just looked at your profile and see that you're a Metalcloak Game Changer guy and with 6-pak shocks to boot. Clearly, the problem has to be your factory rear sway bar and the reason why you almost flopped your Jeep.

I'd say the line I chose to try that required as much flex as possible in the rear may have had a little something to do with it too

 

[MTG]

Wow. What a great read.

I'll add this to the mix...

It was a real pleasure to have to remove TrailBuds broken anti-rock on the Rubicon. Almost as much fun as he had driving it on the off camber stuff afterwards.

Discuss.


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[Jkzinger]

Wow. What a great read.

I'll add this to the mix...

It was a real pleasure to have to remove TrailBuds broken anti-rock on the Rubicon. Almost as much fun as he had driving it on the off camber stuff afterwards.

Discuss.


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Yep, just removed one of my buddies antirocks after he broke it also. Major waste of money.


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[wayoflife]

A little different predicament than I was in...

Oh, I'm sure it was. I'm in suspense reading all about it. Kind of reminds me of playing Oregon Trail back in the day only, it had still had some graphics.

but take it off and see if you do better there next time - you never know until you try!

eh, been there done that and not even because I wanted to. Totally over rated. Way too much sway, zero stability on off camber sections and nothing to hold you in place when cornering fast.

Yes I have. For me my suspension works better without the bar.

I'll bet. My CJ doesn't have front or rear sway bars but then, it's sitting on leaf springs.

I'd say the line I chose to try that required as much flex as possible in the rear may have had a little something to do with it too

Wow, you're so cool. I could read all about your amazing wheeling all day long. :daydream:

 

[deadguy]

You guys got me worried about my rear anti rock now.... What broke? Bar snapped or ends spun on the splines?

Sent from a guy with a jeep

 

[Tylersilverjku]

I'm going to chime in and MAYBE people can understand. These pictures are factory sway bar in the rear you can see how tucked one end is and how open the other is.

I wasn't anywhere close to flopping I stoped because my brake lines were extended. Moral of the story keep the rear sway bar and don't spend money when you don't need too.


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[wayoflife]

You guys got me worried about my rear anti rock now.... What broke? Bar snapped or ends spun on the splines?

Sent from a guy with a jeep

You'll be fine. It's rare but the torsion bar itself can break. The most annoying thing about them is how they squeak like a banshee. That being said, where they shine is if you do a lot of bombing across the desert. Mel likes having one because he races EVO 1 at KOH. For fast driving, being connected and running a stiffer rear sway bar is great to have.