Real advise on 37's

wayoflife said:
The Rubicon front axle is a Dana 44 in name only and mainly because of the differential and axle shafts used. The axle tubes are only 2.5" in diameter just like a Dana 30 and the end forgings are exactly the same as a Dana 30 too. The rear axle is a true Dana 44 in that it has 3" diameter tubes. That being said, you're kidding yourself if you think that'll hold up to 40's let alone being pushed by an LS.
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Just for the sake of knowledge, didn't I see you post somewhere else, that the Sport rear 44 is a, "true 44," and the Rubicon rear 44 is a little different?


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notnalc68 said:
Just for the sake of knowledge, didn't I see you post somewhere else, that the Sport rear 44 is a, "true 44," and the Rubicon rear 44 is a little different?
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They're both true 44's but a Sport or Sahara 44 is nicer to have in that both axle shafts are the same lengths and that you can run 35-spline shafts with an ARB. This is not only great for strength, it's great for carrying a spare as you just need to carry one. A Rubicon 44 is nice in that it comes with 32-spline shafts but they are different lengths and you have to run them with a factory e-locker.
 
wayoflife said:
The Rubicon front axle is a Dana 44 in name only and mainly because of the differential and axle shafts used. The axle tubes are only 2.5" in diameter just like a Dana 30 and the end forgings are exactly the same as a Dana 30 too. The rear axle is a true Dana 44 in that it has 3" diameter tubes. That being said, you're kidding yourself if you think that'll hold up to 40's let alone being pushed by an LS.
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Thanks Eddie. If and when I do the swap it will involve a set of 60's for sure. I don't plan on running anything bigger than 37, but I'm torn on if I want to deal with all the other extras involved with 37's. Or just swap gear sets and stick with my lift and go to 35's.
 
wayoflife said:
They're both true 44's but a Sport or Sahara 44 is nicer to have in that both axle shafts are the same lengths and that you can run 35-spline shafts with an ARB. This is not only great for strength, it's great for carrying a spare as you just need to carry one. A Rubicon 44 is nice in that it comes with 32-spline shafts but they are different lengths and you have to run them with a factory e-locker.
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Got it. Thanks. I remembered there was some difference. Dynatrac has a nice package for the non Rubicon 44, with a PR44 front, and an upgrade kit for the rear.


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austin160 said:
Thanks Eddie. If and when I do the swap it will involve a set of 60's for sure. I don't plan on running anything bigger than 37, but I'm torn on if I want to deal with all the other extras involved with 37's. Or just swap gear sets and stick with my lift and go to 35's.
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No need to throw any money at your factory axle. Being that you're planning to upgrade in the future, I would just run 37's and have fun with what you've got.

notnalc68 said:
Got it. Thanks. I remembered there was some difference. Dynatrac has a nice package for the non Rubicon 44, with a PR44 front, and an upgrade kit for the rear.
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That's definitely a good way to go.
 
I'm running stock axles on my rubi with 37s for the time being. If something happens to my front 44, Is there any issue with swapping in a pr60 while still running a 44 in the rear for a little while?


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OhNoTheJiggies said:
I'm running stock axles on my rubi with 37s for the time being. If something happens to my front 44, Is there any issue with swapping in a pr60 while still running a 44 in the rear for a little while?


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Other than a slightly larger penis, no, no issues at all. You may have to shorten the front driveshaft though.
 
Thank's Eddie for such educational information. Now i know i can upgrade to PR44 housing and use original Rubicon shafts until they done. Just to confirm original factory e-lockers can be used even if re gear needs to be done?

Thank you
 
OhNoTheJiggies said:
I'm running stock axles on my rubi with 37s for the time being. If something happens to my front 44, Is there any issue with swapping in a pr60 while still running a 44 in the rear for a little while?
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Yup. For one, your front axle will be much wider than your rear. For two, you current wheels won't fit on your new 60. If you get new wheels, you can run wheel adapters in the rear to make them work and it will widen things up there but then, you can only do this if you go with a 5x5.5 bolt pattern. Of course, if you try to wheel your Jeep, your rear axle won't last long. At least, it didn't for me back when I tried to run this exact setup. Maybe 2 months or about 9 trips to the mall.
 
OhNoTheJiggies said:
I'm running stock axles on my rubi with 37s for the time being. If something happens to my front 44, Is there any issue with swapping in a pr60 while still running a 44 in the rear for a little while?


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You could do this. I believe you would just need to run some spacers in the back to match the width of your front 60. Also, gears wise, I wouldn't go any higher than 5.13 as the ring and pinion will be the weak spot in the rear.
 
Andy5160 said:
Thank's Eddie for such educational information. Now i know i can upgrade to PR44 housing and use original Rubicon shafts until they done. Just to confirm original factory e-lockers can be used even if re gear needs to be done?

Thank you
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It's what I'm running in Rubicat right now. ProRock 44 front axle with ALL my factory Rubicon parts. e-Locker, shafts and knuckles. I am running ProSteer ball joints but I was running them on my factory axle too. I'm surprised that more people don't know about this affordable option.
 
If you do the stock Rubi components in a PR44 with a stock rear 44 and then upgrade your rear later to a 60, aren't the axle widths off then? Basically, in doing the affordable option to use stock Rubi components in a PR44, are you locking yourself into always keeping your stock rear 44 (unless of course you upgrade both axles again to 60s or something)
 
GraniteCrystal said:
If you do the stock Rubi components in a PR44 with a stock rear 44 and then upgrade your rear later to a 60, aren't the axle widths off then? Basically, in doing the affordable option to use stock Rubi components in a PR44, are you locking yourself into always keeping your stock rear 44 (unless of course you upgrade both axles again to 60s or something)
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You can get both the Trail 60 and semi float PR60 in a stock JK width.
 
GraniteCrystal said:
If you do the stock Rubi components in a PR44 with a stock rear 44 and then upgrade your rear later to a 60, aren't the axle widths off then? Basically, in doing the affordable option to use stock Rubi components in a PR44, are you locking yourself into always keeping your stock rear 44 (unless of course you upgrade both axles again to 60s or something)
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Actually, you have two options here. You can do what I did and that's get your rear ProRock 60 in a 5x5.5 bolt patter and then run a set of wheel adapters up front. This would make your front axle about the same width as your rear. The only problem is that you would need to get new wheels to make it work. The second option is to do what MR.Ty suggested and that's to get a Trail 60 instead. You can get them in a factory width and with a factory 5x5 bolt pattern. If you really want, you can even get it with a ProRock 60 differential. I believe that's what Moochie did.
 
wayoflife said:
Yes, it is the exact same width.



Only if you get it as a hybrid 44/60 but really, for how much that costs, you'd be better served just getting a ProRock 60.
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Ahh ok, makes sense. Thanks for the info!

GraniteCrystal said:
If you do the stock Rubi components in a PR44 with a stock rear 44 and then upgrade your rear later to a 60, aren't the axle widths off then? Basically, in doing the affordable option to use stock Rubi components in a PR44, are you locking yourself into always keeping your stock rear 44 (unless of course you upgrade both axles again to 60s or something)
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So, this was my next question. Correct me if i'm wrong, but isn't that what you're running on Rubicat? a 44/60 combo?

EDIT: beat me to it^^^
 
wayoflife said:
Actually, you have two options here. You can do what I did and that's get your rear ProRock 60 in a 5x5.5 bolt patter and then run a set of wheel adapters up front. This would make your front axle about the same width as your rear. The only problem is that you would need to get new wheels to make it work. The second option is to do what MR.Ty suggested and that's to get a Trail 60 instead. You can get them in a factory width and with a factory 5x5 bolt pattern. If you really want, you can even get it with a ProRock 60 differential. I believe that's what Moochie did.
Click to expand...

MR.Ty said:
You can get both the Trail 60 and semi float PR60 in a stock JK width.
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Cool. Thanks guys. Upgrading the front to PR44 for cheap sounds awesome but not if it locks me in. Sound like, as usual, Dynatrac has some good options 👍
 
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