I was going to get a set of these a while back, but fell onto a good deal 2 times on other brands of beadlocks so went with those. Just really like the look of the racelines.
They looked great, but the beadlock ring bolts would not stay tourqed, and I had alot of broken bolts. I replaced the bolts and still had problems. The outer lip on the RT233 wheels isn't as tall as something like the ATX Slab, so the ring was barely making contact with the wheel with everything tourqued. Hindsight, I probably should've used some kind of spacer, and the aluminum rings would've worked better than the flexible thin steel rings that were on mine.
I've had 3 sets of them and loved them until I went to 40" Trail Graplers. I couldn't get them to stop leaking. Chamber Pro's now without the issues.
Another thing with the Raceline wheels is they do not use threaded inserts like alot of other beadlock manufacturers do. If you strip out the threads for one of your beadlock bolts, you'll have to drill it out and add an insert or helicoil.
I learned the hard way with 233 Aluminum ring Monsters that if it can't mate with the wheel fully flush at 15lbs torque due to a thicker bead, such as my 41.5" Pitbulls have, you need to run the spacers Raceline sells or change ring type(steel vs alum). I had the same issue you describe and blew about 20bolts before getting the spacers.
The spacers supposedly fix that issue.
This is actually incorrect. I bought a set a month ago and they use threaded inserts. Multiple guys in my group have had them for years and have the threaded inserts you can knock out with a screwdriver & hammer. If you buy some spare bolts they even come with the inserts. Just replaced some after doing 5days in Moab.
If you asking about the pics I posted, I used a few coats of this....
View attachment 207700
....along with a good 2 to 3 coats of a good primer beforehand.
The spacers supposedly fix that issue.