PRESS RELEASE : Meet The New Jeep JK BIG BORE XDII-R

Mike_JK_Houston_711 said:
I had an RK trackbar as well. And like mentioned above it would hit the diff cover on my prorock with enough down travel. Stock is totally fine and lot of jeeps here run it, including moby and Rubicat. I sold my RK tb and bought a synergy one. It has enough bend in it to make clearance.


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Thanks! I did notice while just taking a brief look that the RK doesn't really have a bend in it and I wondered about the RK bar hitting the XD diff cover. I don't mind going back to OEM or trying another, like synergy. I'm ignorant to suspensions and still learning how they work...thought that an adjustable track bar was needed to keep the axle aligned correctly.

So, other than the track bar, any issues with installing the big bore box with baby tires from a driveability perspective?
 
Got the box in! What a bitch lol. Only causality I had was while removing the OEM box, I cut the fog light wiring harness...I don’t have fogs anymore so I guess it’s not a huge deal.

Have a few questions since I’m finishing up today.

Bleeding the system: I read that cycling the steering bump to bump 10-12 time will do the trick. Maybe a dumb question but might as well ask...jeep should be completely on for the cycling, correct?

Small black orings: there were two black o rings that were tied to one of the assist outlets. Are they to be used once I add assist? I didn’t notice orings on the OEM so I’m hoping I don’t have to deconstruct if they had to go in the two top holes for the steering lines to go into.

Things I’ve learned for people that might be about to tackle this beast.

The OEM pitman arm nut is 34MM the PSC big bore is 1 13/16. Oreillys. Autozone don’t have this size...NAPA and Harbor freight do. They were only available is 3/4” drive so you have to get an adapter from 1/2 to 3/4 if you’re gonna use it on an impact.

The two caps on the box that cover the holes, remove those before putting the box in the jeep. I thought I’d keep them on to keep dirt out and it turned into a 30 minute fiasco to get the orange one out since it flex’s so much under any type of torque/pressure.

Draglink end: I couldn’t for the life of me get my dranglink to fall from the pitman arm. I removed the OEM box and unscrewed the end while still on the pitman. The end is only $20 at oreillys and saved me a lot of time.

Impact gun is a must. I probably would be still putting the box in if I didn’t have one.
 
mastrcruse said:
Got the box in! What a bitch lol. Only causality I had was while removing the OEM box, I cut the fog light wiring harness...I don’t have fogs anymore so I guess it’s not a huge deal.

Have a few questions since I’m finishing up today.

Bleeding the system: I read that cycling the steering bump to bump 10-12 time will do the trick. Maybe a dumb question but might as well ask...jeep should be completely on for the cycling, correct?

Small black orings: there were two black o rings that were tied to one of the assist outlets. Are they to be used once I add assist? I didn’t notice orings on the OEM so I’m hoping I don’t have to deconstruct if they had to go in the two top holes for the steering lines to go into.

Things I’ve learned for people that might be about to tackle this beast.

The OEM pitman arm nut is 34MM the PSC big bore is 1 13/16. Oreillys. Autozone don’t have this size...NAPA and Harbor freight do. They were only available is 3/4” drive so you have to get an adapter from 1/2 to 3/4 if you’re gonna use it on an impact.

The two caps on the box that cover the holes, remove those before putting the box in the jeep. I thought I’d keep them on to keep dirt out and it turned into a 30 minute fiasco to get the orange one out since it flex’s so much under any type of torque/pressure.

Draglink end: I couldn’t for the life of me get my dranglink to fall from the pitman arm. I removed the OEM box and unscrewed the end while still on the pitman. The end is only $20 at oreillys and saved me a lot of time.

Impact gun is a must. I probably would be still putting the box in if I didn’t have one.
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It is a beast to put in! Here are the bleeding instructions from PSC

http://www.pscmotorsports.com/pdf/tech/bleeding.pdf

It took me a bit to get it perfect. But worth the time. The o rings were to go on the input and output lines to the pump at the gear where you took them off from the OEM unit. If your OEM ones were in good shape, you should be fine. Just watch your connections.
 
wjtstudios said:
It is a beast to put in! Here are the bleeding instructions from PSC

http://www.pscmotorsports.com/pdf/tech/bleeding.pdf

It took me a bit to get it perfect. But worth the time. The o rings were to go on the input and output lines to the pump at the gear where you took them off from the OEM unit. If your OEM ones were in good shape, you should be fine. Just watch your connections.
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Thanks! If the orings weren’t good, I should notice leaking pretty quickly coming from the input and output lines, correct?
 
Thanks for the info, so you saying we should pick up a Pittman arm remover from a aut

Thanks for the info, so you saying we should pick up a Pittman arm remover from a auto store? I was told a 46MM should be sufficient to get the new pitman arm nut on(Same Same). Good tip on the adapter from1/2 to 3/4 im pretty sure I missed that one. Any idea on that size of a pittman arm remover to use, anyone? Any idea on much power steering fluid might be needed, or non since your just tapping back into the stock cylinder. Anyone make a switch over to the swepco 715 also read it wasn't completely necessary to run this specific brand.
I dont have a impact gun why are u saying thats a must? Just for the sake of breaking the bolts loose? I imagine ill just use a breaker bar.
 
SullivanM08 said:
Thanks for the info, so you saying we should pick up a Pittman arm remover from a auto store? I was told a 46MM should be sufficient to get the new pitman arm nut on(Same Same). Good tip on the adapter from1/2 to 3/4 im pretty sure I missed that one. Any idea on that size of a pittman arm remover to use, anyone? Any idea on much power steering fluid might be needed, or non since your just tapping back into the stock cylinder. Anyone make a switch over to the swepco 715 also read it wasn't completely necessary to run this specific brand.
I dont have a impact gun why are u saying thats a must? Just for the sake of breaking the bolts loose? I imagine ill just use a breaker bar.
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Because you are changing the whole box, you dont need a Pittman arm remover at all, just leave the stock one on the stock box.

46MM is good, you are going to need 185ft/lbs torque wrench IIRC and locktite

No need to switch to Swepco as its purpose is pump/ram/cavitation/seal related and you are running just a piston box. The box is easy to install given the correct tools. An impact will aid in ease, but ultimately is not a requirement at the cost of additional physical effort
 
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SullivanM08 said:
Thanks for the info, so you saying we should pick up a Pittman arm remover from a auto store? I was told a 46MM should be sufficient to get the new pitman arm nut on(Same Same). Good tip on the adapter from1/2 to 3/4 im pretty sure I missed that one. Any idea on that size of a pittman arm remover to use, anyone? Any idea on much power steering fluid might be needed, or non since your just tapping back into the stock cylinder. Anyone make a switch over to the swepco 715 also read it wasn't completely necessary to run this specific brand.
I dont have a impact gun why are u saying thats a must? Just for the sake of breaking the bolts loose? I imagine ill just use a breaker bar.
Click to expand...

Since you won’t be re-using the stock pitman arm, you can just unbolt it from the drag link and get it off with a pitman arm wedge tool. No need to remove the pitman arm from the steering gear. Just keep in mind if you have a stock drag link you will destroy the dust boot (don’t think they’re replaceable?) I did this with a synergy drag link and just replaced the boot. You should be fine with a breaker bar


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DWiggles said:
Because you are changing the whole box, you dont need a Pittman arm remover at all, just leave the stock one on the stock box.

46MM is good, you are going to need 185ft/lbs torque wrench IIRC and locktite

No need to switch to Swepco as its purpose is pump/ram/cavitation/seal related and you are running just a piston box. The box is easy to install given the correct tools. An impact will aid in ease, but ultimately is not a requirement at the cost of additional physical effort
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Ok yeah that makes since about the pitman arm, was thinking yall ment it was hard to remove from the JK if you didnt remove the arm first, but thats not the case so cool. I have the torque wrench and locktight for sure, whats the IIRC? and good news on the Swepco. I usually take the hard route too long, maybe ill just find a reason to own a impact wrench now haha. Thanks for the help.

Jkjon said:
Since you won’t be re-using the stock pitman arm, you can just unbolt it from the drag link and get it off with a pitman arm wedge tool. No need to remove the pitman arm from the steering gear. Just keep in mind if you have a stock drag link you will destroy the dust boot (don’t think they’re replaceable?) I did this with a synergy drag link and just replaced the boot. You should be fine with a breaker bar


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Same as above thanks for the information on the arm. I have actually upgraded my drag link to Steersmarts/Griffin last year sometime so should come off fairly easliy. And yes when I removed the stock drag link I destroyed the dust boot hahah!

Thanks to both ill keep in touch.:rock:
 
SullivanM08 said:
Ok yeah that makes since about the pitman arm, was thinking yall ment it was hard to remove from the JK if you didnt remove the arm first, but thats not the case so cool. I have the torque wrench and locktight for sure, whats the IIRC? and good news on the Swepco. I usually take the hard route too long, maybe ill just find a reason to own a impact wrench now haha. Thanks for the help.



Same as above thanks for the information on the arm. I have actually upgraded my drag link to Steersmarts/Griffin last year sometime so should come off fairly easliy. And yes when I removed the stock drag link I destroyed the dust boot hahah!

Thanks to both ill keep in touch.:rock:
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IIRC - if I recall correctly

sent from SPACE!
DZZ Build thread
 
SullivanM08 said:
Ok yeah that makes since about the pitman arm, was thinking yall ment it was hard to remove from the JK if you didnt remove the arm first, but thats not the case so cool. I have the torque wrench and locktight for sure, whats the IIRC? and good news on the Swepco. I usually take the hard route too long, maybe ill just find a reason to own a impact wrench now haha. Thanks for the help.



Same as above thanks for the information on the arm. I have actually upgraded my drag link to Steersmarts/Griffin last year sometime so should come off fairly easliy. And yes when I removed the stock drag link I destroyed the dust boot hahah!

Thanks to both ill keep in touch.:rock:
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If you take a hammer and hit the pitman arm opposed to using a pickle fork you won't damage the boot.
Also torque spec is 225ft lbs, 185 is the stock box.
 
SO apparently I’m not the only one that’s cut this haha. Dealership had a pig tail repair kit...back up and going.
 

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mastrcruse said:
SO apparently I’m not the only one that’s cut this haha. Dealership had a pig tail repair kit...back up and going.
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Why are people cutting the harness to get the box out?
There's two clips to remove.
 
JKDream said:
Why are people cutting the harness to get the box out?
There's two clips to remove.
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They aren’t cutting it on purpose. Not like I (or others) went up in there and just hacked it off haha. I didn’t unclipped the plug and thought I could swing the box out and I caught it. I got lazy though and did it incorrectly so if anyone comes to this thread for advice on install, unclip the harness cause you can’t swing the box under it like I thought I could.

Dealserhip said that harness gets f’ed up just because of the placement. Wraps around the box and under the steering shaft.

Either way, it’s all working great now. Thanks to Eddie for his DIY and y’all for the help.

My initial thoughts is that it’s definitely firmed up the steering and I guess I’d agree with others saying it feels more like a truck. The road feedback is a bit less also.
 
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Has anyone else installed this box with a cylinder assist? In the PSC cylinder installation instructions, it says to let the cylinder limit the travel to otherwise it can damage other components, but the XD2 is putting a lot of stress on the steering as it tries pushing past the cylinder travel. I would hate to either break the gear box or something else as a result.
 
aTX427 said:
Has anyone else installed this box with a cylinder assist? In the PSC cylinder installation instructions, it says to let the cylinder limit the travel to otherwise it can damage other components, but the XD2 is putting a lot of stress on the steering as it tries pushing past the cylinder travel. I would hate to either break the gear box or something else as a result.
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The steering box has internal stops - it can only push so far.
It's not as big of an issue as a ram that is too long.
 
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