PR60 Rear or Build up stock axle?

jorgelrod said:
Everybody talks about the Rear 60 but I wonder how much stronger is the Trail or PR60 running on the weak side of the ring and pininon vs the stock 44 running on the strong side even if it's smaller...
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The trail 60 is still a semi float axle so while it is stronger due to a bigger ring and pinon, you can still have the issue of breaking an axle shaft and it coming out of the housing. Don't get me wrong, it will still be stronger.

The PR60 is a full float axle meaning the axle shafts are only powering the wheel and not supporting the weight of the vehicle. The ring gear and pinon gear are bigger than the 44. The axle shafts are also bigger and the axle housing is as well.
 
Sorry to disagree mudbuddy, but the PR60 is normally furnished as semi-float. Full float is an upgrade....
 
Still, I'm not talking about shafts or flanges, Im talking about the ring gear, PR60's being high pinion, run the gear on the "coast side" or weak side of the ring and pinion vs the low pinion design of the OEM rear D44, this is what I am referring to. I want to know if the PR60 running on the weak side is still stronger than a 44 on the strong side just due to ring size...
 
All good! Could be from the fumes from all the bullshit flying around making you woozy...that or your kitties got loose again!
 
jorgelrod said:
Still, I'm not talking about shafts or flanges, Im talking about the ring gear, PR60's being high pinion, run the gear on the "coast side" or weak side of the ring and pinion vs the low pinion design of the OEM rear D44, this is what I am referring to. I want to know if the PR60 running on the weak side is still stronger than a 44 on the strong side just due to ring size...
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I would say yes since the ring and pinon is still bigger. If you compared a 60 that ran on the drive side compared to a 60 that ran on the coast side, then I would say it wouldn't be stronger.

Ddays said:
All good! Could be from the fumes from all the bullshit flying around making you woozy...that or your kitties got loose again!
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Think it's all the bs on here today. In the process of tryin to catch more kitties! [emoji106] stay tuned. [emoji16]
 
jorgelrod said:
Still, I'm not talking about shafts or flanges, Im talking about the ring gear, PR60's being high pinion, run the gear on the "coast side" or weak side of the ring and pinion vs the low pinion design of the OEM rear D44, this is what I am referring to. I want to know if the PR60 running on the weak side is still stronger than a 44 on the strong side just due to ring size...
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Yes it is running on the coast side but it's still a 9.75" gear vs 8.8" in the jk rear d44. Sounds like a small number but look at them side by side, it's much bigger. The dynatrac pr60 housing is very rigid so rp issues on the pr60 rear wont be an issue into you get into say a v8 swap or 40s. At that point any hp rear is pretty much a bad idea. The pr60 sf rear has larger shafts and beefier shaft to flange material than the d44 but it is still semi float so you could bend it. Obviously could go to ff to fix that issue. I have a sf pr60 rear. If I were doing it over I would have probably stuck with the stock 44 until I upgraded to 60s front and rear, which is happening soon lol.
 
jorgelrod said:
Still, I'm not talking about shafts or flanges, Im talking about the ring gear, PR60's being high pinion, run the gear on the "coast side" or weak side of the ring and pinion vs the low pinion design of the OEM rear D44, this is what I am referring to. I want to know if the PR60 running on the weak side is still stronger than a 44 on the strong side just due to ring size...
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I don't know if anyone here is going to have an answer to that question. What are you thinking? What's your reason for asking?

Ddays said:
All good! Could be from the fumes from all the bullshit flying around making you woozy...that or your kitties got loose again!
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Very possible on both counts.
 
WJCO said:
I don't know if anyone here is going to have an answer to that question. What are you thinking? What's your reason for asking?
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Me just being a curious fellow, I've always wondered why with all the rear 60's Dynatrac sells why they never made a LP design and I guess it's based on ground clearance but still made me wonder...
 
jorgelrod said:
Me just being a curious fellow, I've always wondered why with all the rear 60's Dynatrac sells why they never made a LP design and I guess it's based on ground clearance but still made me wonder...
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Gotcha. The 60 gears are bigger in general. As far as strength specifications, I have no idea.
 
jorgelrod said:
Me just being a curious fellow, I've always wondered why with all the rear 60's Dynatrac sells why they never made a LP design and I guess it's based on ground clearance but still made me wonder...
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I'm pretty sure they did/do make a LP 60 it just was not a "Pro rock".
 
I wish there was a full float 60 rear that had the JK 5x5 bolt pattern. I think a 44 up front and 60ff rear would be perfect for 37s. Just wish you didn't need the extra wheel adapters up front to do so.
 
CJW said:
I wish there was a full float 60 rear that had the JK 5x5 bolt pattern. I think a 44 up front and 60ff rear would be perfect for 37s. Just wish you didn't need the extra wheel adapters up front to do so.
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If you think 5x5 is strong enough for your needs, you really don't need a full float rear axle. A Trail 60 with semi float shafts will be more than strong enough for 37's.
 
wayoflife said:
If you think 5x5 is strong enough for your needs, you really don't need a full float rear axle. A Trail 60 with semi float shafts will be more than strong enough for 37's.
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Good to know! So if this set up is plenty for 37s, when would you need a full float rear on 37s? Just curious.
Also, I didn't realize/think that the 5x5.5 stud pattern would be noticeably stronger than the 5x5. 8 lug is cool but really don't see me ever needing that one.
Thanks for the info!!
 
CJW said:
Good to know! So if this set up is plenty for 37s, when would you need a full float rear on 37s? Just curious.
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A full float rear 60 is always "nice" to have but totally unnecessary just for a set of 37's. Or at least, in my opinion.

Also, I didn't realize/think that the 5x5.5 stud pattern would be noticeably stronger than the 5x5.
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You can get the 5x5.5 with 9/16" racing studs. That is what makes it a lot stronger over a standard 5x5.
 
CJW said:
Good to know! So if this set up is plenty for 37s, when would you need a full float rear on 37s? Just curious.
Also, I didn't realize/think that the 5x5.5 stud pattern would be noticeably stronger than the 5x5. 8 lug is cool but really don't see me ever needing that one.
Thanks for the info!!
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wayoflife said:
A full float rear 60 is always "nice" to have but totally unnecessary just for a set of 37's. Or at least, in my opinion.



You can get the 5x5.5 with 9/16" racing studs. That is what makes it a lot stronger over a standard 5x5.
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This is so close to where I am in my build that I think it best to slightly hijack this thread instead of starting a whole new one regarding gearing. My apologies if I am way off base here.

I will run 37's but decided to go with the XD60 rear axle. I know, maybe overkill, but I plan to do a lot of desert driving and the family is excited about overlanding. The suggestion came in to go with 5.38 gearing instead of the 5.13. I get concerned about the front Prorock44 having a 5.38 instead of the 5.13 since I suspect the gearing is getting ever so smaller on the front.

Your thoughts?
 
NevadaZielmeister said:
This is so close to where I am in my build that I think it best to slightly hijack this thread instead of starting a whole new one regarding gearing. My apologies if I am way off base here.

I will run 37's but decided to go with the XD60 rear axle. I know, maybe overkill, but I plan to do a lot of desert driving and the family is excited about overlanding. The suggestion came in to go with 5.38 gearing instead of the 5.13. I get concerned about the front Prorock44 having a 5.38 instead of the 5.13 since I suspect the gearing is getting ever so smaller on the front.

Your thoughts?
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It's a legitimate concern. A 5.38 pinion on a 44 is really really small and you pretty much just have one tooth on the ring gear. If you're going to have a break, this is where it will be. Being that you have a 3.6L motor and plan on only running 37's, I personally would recommend that you stick with 5.13's. If it were me, that's what I would choose to be running with that setup.
 
wayoflife said:
It's a legitimate concern. A 5.38 pinion on a 44 is really really small and you pretty much just have one tooth on the ring gear. If you're going to have a break, this is where it will be. Being that you have a 3.6L motor and plan on only running 37's, I personally would recommend that you stick with 5.13's. If it were me, that's what I would choose to be running with that setup.
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I'll be going with the 5.13 as well. If I ever upgrade to 40's, which I seriously doubt now, I think that 5.13 and an PR60 in the front would still work fine. I know that you run Rubi-Cat with a PR44 front and an PR60 rear and you are happy, right?

Eddie, as usual, you are the best. Thank you.
 
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