PR60 (Hard Core package) hydro assist

OverlanderJK said:
Considering the frame notch came out a year ago and the dtd came out 10 years ago and bolt ons 6, no, you don’t.

Ask Eddie to post pictures of his frame notch on Moby. Oh wait....


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Evos frame notch came out a year ago? 🧐 I think it’s been out longer. I’ve had my Jeep for over two years and Scott had it on his and he had his Jeep before mine. The local guy that had his Jeep done by evo in like 12’ has it as well.


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They have been notching the frame for well over a year so I know that timeline is not accurate. Frame notch is not a requirement but it all depends on the height of your lift. Want to keep a lcg you will have to notch no matter what coil over setup. Want to put a couple inches of preload on your bolt on kit and you can run it without the notch.

Mybadjk said:
Thought about that. But would only save like $700. Planning on hydro and sticking with 37s maybe. Then high steer and 40s. Just need to fix my tcase and deathwobble
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If your final goal is hi steer and 40s I would probably do new tires and the hi steer kit at the same time so you can set your ride height and if needed notch at that time then install the box when you can afford it. At that point who cares if you kill the factory box.
 
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RSQCON said:
They have been notching the frame for well over a year so I know that timeline is not accurate. Frame notch is not a requirement but it all depends on the height of your lift. Want to keep a lcg you will have to notch no matter what coil over setup. Want to put a couple inches of preload on your bolt on kit and you can run it without the notch.


If you final goal is hi steer and 40s I would probably do new tires and the hi steer kit at the same time so you can set your ride height and if needed notch at that time then install the box when you can afford it. At that point who cares if you kill the factory box.
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That’s what I’m thinking of doing. Just bought new 37s. So planning on using them unless they go on the jl.


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Can’t speak for anyone else, but with my 60 front and bolt on’s the high steer definitely makes contact with the frame with room to go. Not saying a frame notch is necessary, but I can see why you would want it. That being said my pre-load is probably too low. More bump stop could hold you over


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OverlanderJK said:
I am aware. I was showing the high steer and bolt ons. I know that jeep well and know that it did not have a notch at that point.
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Interesting here’s my Jeep with Bolton coilovers and high steer...it looks like my draglink is in the frame notch and I still have more up travel at my disposal

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Edit: pictures added
 
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I was just noticing how exposed your lower ball joint zerk fittings are. I snapped both of mine off and had to have a shop back what was left out. I just replaced them with some needle fittings but I am going to replace my wheels . Currently running 3.5" and am probably going to switch to 5 or 5.5".
 
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RSQCON said:
I was just noticing how exposed your lower ball joint zerk fittings are. I snapped both of mine off and had to have a shop back what was left out. I just replaced them with some needle fittings but I am going to replace my wheels . Currently running 3.5" and am probably going to switch to 5 or 5.5".
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At that much backspace your hubs will be proud of the wheels. When I started with 37's on this setup I was running 4.6" or so and my stub hubs were recessed but still got gouged up from time to time on rocks. I don't think I'd personally run more than 4.75 with 37's. I honestly think the newer KMC Machetes (231s?) in 4.75" would be my next choice if I ever stepped down from a 40 to a 37.
 
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If needed I will with to the Dynaloc hub. Guess I need to get under there with a tape measure and really figure out what I need.
 
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Kind of like how mine are pressed into the knuckle with my xd 60. I bought slabs cause they were in stock with the 5x5.5 spacing. But the xd knuckles aren’t available in 5x5.5 lug pattern. So it worked out I guess.


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