PR44 and rear Trail 60 for 37" tires?

wayoflife said:
Unlike the factory front Dana 44 which is a Dana 44 in name only thanks to the differential (tubes and end forgings are the same as a Dana 30), the factory rear Dana 44 is a pretty tough axle with 3" tubes. It'll take the rocks just fine and so long as you keep your gear ratio to 5.13, will handle that as well. If you have a Sport 44, all the better as you can get upgrade it with 35 spline shafts. Where you will start to see problems with bending is with coil overs as they will allow you to drive so much faster. And, speed will break more stuff on your Jeep than rocks any day of the week. Having said that, between the two, your rear will go first. The PR44 is built to be better and stronger than a true Dana 44.
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I don't currently plan on getting coil overs. Maybe eventually, but they're not even on the list yet. Plus, I figure if I did get them, it would be after both front and rear axles are replaced.

Thanks for the good info as always!
 
Wow, I'm happy with the information being shared in this thread from those with experience. I would like to thank everyone who has chimed in so far because it only helps out the community here with the same questions that I have in regards to building a capable JKU with 37"tires on a budget that wouldn't allow for front and rear pro rock 60's. I know there are other manufacturers out there but buying American is important to me for a number of reasons; thus, my choice to buy Dynatrac.

I will have to look into the pro rock housing upgrade in stock width for the rear trail series 60, and if it is only a couple hundred more then why not? Thank you rtguy for that tip. I'm sure it'll still be much more affordable for me than a full float pr60 rear.

Also, I will plan on going with 5.13 gears as I will go with a PR44 front. The only things which remains is finding as good a deal as possible on one.
Thanks again guys
 
RedFox said:
Wow, I'm happy with the information being shared in this thread from those with experience. I would like to thank everyone who has chimed in so far because it only helps out the community here with the same questions that I have in regards to building a capable JKU with 37"tires on a budget that wouldn't allow for front and rear pro rock 60's. I know there are other manufacturers out there but buying American is important to me for a number of reasons; thus, my choice to buy Dynatrac.

I will have to look into the pro rock housing upgrade in stock width for the rear trail series 60, and if it is only a couple hundred more then why not? Thank you rtguy for that tip. I'm sure it'll still be much more affordable for me than a full float pr60 rear.

Also, I will plan on going with 5.13 gears as I will go with a PR44 front. The only things which remains is finding as good a deal as possible on one.
Thanks again guys
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I would contact Off Road Evolution as you are local and they work closely with Dynatrac.
 
wayoflife said:
I would contact Off Road Evolution as you are local and they work closely with Dynatrac.
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So I got a quote from Drew at ORE for a pr44 and am happy with the price, but I have a question about install. I want to install the axle myself but my problem is that since I have 4.10 gears currently, my pr 44 front will have 5.13 and my stock rear will be 4.10.

I will have ORE install my gears in the rear, so could I drive there without damage to the new gears in the pro rock by removing the front axle shafts and driving there?
 
RedFox said:
So I got a quote from Drew at ORE for a pr44 and am happy with the price, but I have a question about install. I want to install the axle myself but my problem is that since I have 4.10 gears currently, my pr 44 front will have 5.13 and my stock rear will be 4.10.

I will have ORE install my gears in the rear, so could I drive there without damage to the new gears in the pro rock by removing the front axle shafts and driving there?
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You can drive but you have to leave the front driveshaft out untill the rear is matiching the front to avoid any problems.
 
RedFox said:
So remove front driveshaft and front axle shafts?
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No just the front drive shaft thats all, that will make the front axle run independant and the timming/gears will not matter. leave the shafts alone you need those.
 
noroad said:
No just the front drive shaft thats all, that will make the front axle run independant and the timming/gears will not matter. leave the shafts alone you need those.
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Yea I just realized it would work just without the drive shaft
 
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noroad said:
No just the front drive shaft thats all, that will make the front axle run independant and the timming/gears will not matter. leave the shafts alone you need those.
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Cool, thanks for the tip. That makes things a little easier. I thought I had to pull the axle shafts. I will pull the front drive shaft, drive to ORE and get my rear gears changed.
 
For what it's worth I just went through all that decision making process for my 2dr that I plan to run 37s on. Per the reccomendations of a lot of people on this site I just went with the dynatrac trail leader package and 4.88s and from the sounds of it i should have no issues running 37s on that set up. Only reason I went 4.88s was because I'm running 33s currently and don't quite know when I can pull the trigger on 37s or else I would have gone 5.13. I definitely wouldn't want to go over 5.13 on the stock 44 rear but the 60 has a bigger ring and pinion so the 5.13 or 5.38 would be stronger.

I didn't have any issues with my rear 44 running 37s on my last JKUR but I kept the stock 4.10 gears in there.

Either way sounds like your getting the same Info I got on my few threads on the subject, good luck with your decision and enjoy the new axles.

Edit: totes just saw this was a really old post, oh well haha

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Hello,

I pretty much a lurker and can find most info. Secondly sorry for reviving an old thread but I’m in the exact set up and have a few questions. I have a 2014 jk. Front is a prorock 44 with 4.88 gears, arb locker and rcv 35 spline shafts with xd big bore steering box & ram assist, & teraflex big brake kit.
The rear is a stock non rubicon Dana 44 with an Eaton elocker and factory ten chromoly axle shafts (31 spline I believe) or whatever spline the Eaton elocker is.
I run 37s on race line beadlocks for awhile now and I’m happy with my set up.

What I’m looking to upgrade to is a Dynatrac trail 60 in the rear. I can get a decent discount on a new one and think I’m gonna go this route. I know it’s semi float and all but don’t want to spend big money trying to buy new wheels otherwise.

1. I want the thicker housing & clearance a trail 60 offers with arb 35 spline locker. I’d also like RCV rear shafts but cannot find if they make a rear that will go in there. Does anyone know which shaft they sell that goes in will work & can provide a link? If not what do you recommend running in the rear?

I wheel rocks more than anything but get into pretty much a little of everything living in Ohio. Mud, sand, rocks

Thanks for looking and the advice.
 
RCV rear shafts? The whole thing about RCV is the CV style joint the use for front shafts. No need in the rear unless your building a rear steer axle.


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Neohiofan said:
Hello,

I pretty much a lurker and can find most info. Secondly sorry for reviving an old thread but I’m in the exact set up and have a few questions. I have a 2014 jk. Front is a prorock 44 with 4.88 gears, arb locker and rcv 35 spline shafts with xd big bore steering box & ram assist, & teraflex big brake kit.
The rear is a stock non rubicon Dana 44 with an Eaton elocker and factory ten chromoly axle shafts (31 spline I believe) or whatever spline the Eaton elocker is.
I run 37s on race line beadlocks for awhile now and I’m happy with my set up.

What I’m looking to upgrade to is a Dynatrac trail 60 in the rear. I can get a decent discount on a new one and think I’m gonna go this route. I know it’s semi float and all but don’t want to spend big money trying to buy new wheels otherwise.

1. I want the thicker housing & clearance a trail 60 offers with arb 35 spline locker. I’d also like RCV rear shafts but cannot find if they make a rear that will go in there. Does anyone know which shaft they sell that goes in will work & can provide a link? If not what do you recommend running in the rear?

I wheel rocks more than anything but get into pretty much a little of everything living in Ohio. Mud, sand, rocks

Thanks for looking and the advice.
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I will give my money to dynatrac in a hearbeat on any other product, but there is something about running on the weak side of the Ring and Pinion that rubs me the wrong way about the Trail 60. I find myself on the fence all the time between the want of a rear 60 and the need to go beyond 37 to regain the lost clearance from a bigger Standard cut pumpkin all the time. Still, if you bent the actual axle housing, maybe you play hard enough to need going full float, otherwise just get another 44 housing and go 35 splines in the back with the Dynatrac 35 spline rear kit.
 
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