Please help me... I've almost had it!!!

SDG said:
Just my gut feeling but I doubt that the fan would be PWM modulated. Only time that would make sense would be if it was running on a PID loop and I dont think they are trying to control engine temp that carefully. Unless they were doing a soft start or something.

Easy way to tell should be by the number of connections. If the connector has 3 terminals its most likely designed for PWM and if only 2 its probably not.
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They run the headlights with it, so I could see them using it on the fan as well. The wife has our Jeep today because of the snow, but I will check when she gets home.
 
HDGasser said:
I'll have to bust out a meter today and find out what the voltage is from the factory harness... This actually makes sense if it is part of the CANBUS, which I'm sure it is.

So it's either wire in a cap & diode or just buy a wiring kit from spal and wire it all up independently... If the CANBUS will let me, dunno what it'll do if it doesn't see a fan?
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What is the max amp draw of the fan or what is it protected at? The diode is in-line so it would need to handle the full load current... provided of course we find it is CANBUS
 
If you want to stop messing around with the OEM wiring, throw the fan onto a relay harness wired to the battery, and use the OEM wiring to trigger the relay.
 
NFRs2000NYC said:
If you want to stop messing around with the OEM wiring, throw the fan onto a relay harness wired to the battery, and use the OEM wiring to trigger the relay.
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The problem with this is you will still need to isolate the CANBUS or the relay will chatter, and if there isn't enough impedance in the relay circuit the circuit will be shut down.

I learned this when trying to find the "HOT" wire on my headlights by disconnecting the bulb and putting my meter on the pins. Because the bulb wasn't detected there was no voltage on any of the pins. The CANBUS system has to detect a "good" device before it powers it. IT is a real PITA for aftermarket electrical stuff.
 
Guess my thought was it might keep it from running all the time. But I guess that won't help you sorry..
 
jnabird333 said:
The problem with this is you will still need to isolate the CANBUS or the relay will chatter, and if there isn't enough impedance in the relay circuit the circuit will be shut down.

I learned this when trying to find the "HOT" wire on my headlights by disconnecting the bulb and putting my meter on the pins. Because the bulb wasn't detected there was no voltage on any of the pins. The CANBUS system has to detect a "good" device before it powers it. IT is a real PITA for aftermarket electrical stuff.
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You can probably solve that by splicing in a canbus error eliminator (capacitor) between the OEM wiring and the relay, which should cure the relay chatter.
 
NFRs2000NYC said:
You can probably solve that by splicing in a canbus error eliminator (capacitor) between the OEM wiring and the relay, which should cure the relay chatter.
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This probably would fix the diagnostic shut-down of the fan, but a second capacitor would still be needed at the relay to fix the chatter.

Here is a diagram of a circuit I just made that would allow the factory fan "Hot" lead to trigger a relay OR a switch to activate an aftermarket fan. This will keep the relay from chattering and protect the CANBUS circuit. I have no experience with the error eliminator so I'm not sure how to incorporate it.
Fan.png
 
jnabird333 said:
This probably would fix the diagnostic shut-down of the fan, but a second capacitor would still be needed at the relay to fix the chatter.

Here is a diagram of a circuit I just made that would allow the factory fan "Hot" lead to trigger a relay OR a switch to activate an aftermarket fan. This will keep the relay from chattering and protect the CANBUS circuit. I have no experience with the error eliminator so I'm not sure how to incorporate it.
View attachment 62477
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Man this guys GOOD!!!
 
It got down to -4 degrees last night so you will have to excuse me for not looking into this as promised.... Did you by chance put a meter on it to see if it is CANBUS?
 
jnabird333 said:
It got down to -4 degrees last night so you will have to excuse me for not looking into this as promised.... Did you by chance put a meter on it to see if it is CANBUS?
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-4!!! Ohh hell no!

I did not, I've felt like crap for the past few days and didn't feel like wrenching yesterday... Or today lol

From what I've found on the interwebs is that it is controlled by the canbus crap.

I have yet to hear back from Spal, universal parts, or discount jeep parts.... 3 more people I can add to my DO NOT BUY FROM list.

I think for now I'm gonna buy a new factory fan and stick it in, I've got a trip to Death Valley in a few weeks so Ill prolly buy 2 fan motors! Lol
 
HDGasser said:
-4!!! Ohh hell no!

From what I've found on the interwebs is that it is controlled by the canbus crap.

I have yet to hear back from Spal, universal parts, or discount jeep parts.... 3 more people I can add to my DO NOT BUY FROM list.

I think for now I'm gonna buy a new factory fan and stick it in, I've got a trip to Death Valley in a few weeks so Ill prolly buy 2 fan motors! Lol
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I just found a few posts that point to the same thing. Odd thing is that when your last fan cooked, I would have thought it should have thrown a code well before engine temps started to climb... Since the canbus system would have known the fan was not working properly.... seems like if it doesn't do that it is counterproductive to having it hooked up to that system period.
 
SDG said:
I just found a few posts that point to the same thing. Odd thing is that when your last fan cooked, I would have thought it should have thrown a code well before engine temps started to climb... Since the canbus system would have known the fan was not working properly.... seems like if it doesn't do that it is counterproductive to having it hooked up to that system period.
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I was thinking the same thing and agree
 
jnabird333 said:
I was thinking the same thing and agree
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I kinda thought the same thing but NOPE!

Only reason my old lady caught it this time is cause it cost me over a grand to fix it last time and I made sure to beat it in her brain to keep an eye on stuff... This time she caught it before it did damage lol

Funny thing too is that I snipped the ground wire when we were on the side of the road just for safe measure, I didn't know if they were still hot or not but didn't want it catch fire... And still no CEL, runs and drives great with out it even hooked up.

I'm thinking I'm gonna do some testing after my DV trip. I'm gonna do a whole stand alone wiring harness and temp control unit to see if the CANBUS will let it fly.

If so that may be the better option cause the AEV computer makes the damn fan run all the time... I no likey
 
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