OX Lockers

jwolfejt

jwolfejt

Active Member
I've posted before about regearing, etc.. local(ish) shop I am working with recommended ox lockers and I was just going to upgrade to chromoly shafts (and do a fad delete) does anyone have any experience with this ? I was told that the OX Lockers are actually stronger than the ARB's (is this true ?) and the ARB's can be a pain in the ass to install/setup and maintain down the road due to high susceptibility of air leaks ? They mentioned they wanted to set me up with an electronic solenoid for actuation (as you can pick cable, electronic or air actuation) . Was also told that no matter what I may have leaks with a FAD delete no matter what :( - Has anyone experienced with a FAD delete run into this?
 
Just remember, shops are a business and it's their job to SELL you things. A reputable shop will explain the differences between your options. A less than reputable shop will sell you on whatever it is they have in stock and or what they can make the most profit on - all the while, shit talking other products.
 
wayoflife said:
Just remember, shops are a business and it's their job to SELL you things. A reputable shop will explain the differences between your options. A less than reputable shop will sell you on whatever it is they have in stock and or what they can make the most profit on - all the while, shit talking other products.
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I am already researching tackling this myself - something tells me there is alot of reasons why ARB's are a goto and of all the things i've seen on ARB's when they fail - they always fail in an open state and its usually due to an airleak. I've re-geared Ford 9" before (but those are stupid easy - seems like dana axles are more involving).
 
jwolfejt said:
I am already researching tackling this myself - something tells me there is alot of reasons why ARB's are a goto and of all the things i've seen on ARB's when they fail - they always fail in an open state and its usually due to an airleak. I've re-geared Ford 9" before (but those are stupid easy - seems like dana axles are more involving).
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I will be the first to say that OX is a decent locker. Yes, they had all kinds of problems early on and to the point where the company ran into some real trouble but that was more than a decade ago. With that said, ARB's "can" have issues with air leaks and this is especially so on an 80. It really is annoying to no end. However, on my 44 and 60's, they've worked well and problem free and through years of abuse. I personally run stainless steel air lines and NEVER have leaks with them. The plastic blue lines they provide "can" get damaged, especially from heat and that will cause a leak. Just from more than 2 decades of experience, I personally would still go with ARB.
 
wayoflife said:
I will be the first to say that OX is a decent locker. Yes, they had all kinds of problems early on and to the point where the company ran into some real trouble but that was more than a decade ago. With that said, ARB's "can" have issues with air leaks and this is especially so on an 80. It really is annoying to no end. However, on my 44 and 60's, they've worked well and problem free and through years of abuse. I personally run stainless steel air lines and NEVER have leaks with them. The plastic blue lines they provide "can" get damaged, especially from heat and that will cause a leak. Just from more than 2 decades of experience, I personally would still go with ARB.
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I think the stainless is the only way to go. Especially on a new install. If you don’t go stainless you will regret it the first time you are splicing a line on the trail. Then regret it again when you are replacing all your already installed air lines with stainless.
 
It's my understanding that OX is the schizz-nitz IF you're going manual (cable) lockers.

I'm old enough that I started wheeling when it was all mechanical, manual lockers. I can remember when air lockers were first being pushed and was in the crowd that screamed "SACRILEGE".

I WOULD prefer a manual mechanical over electronic. Don't like the idea of something electrical hanging down in the rocks, mud, downed trees taking a beating and expecting it to work all the time. Yes, they haven't failed me yet on my Rubi. But I am an old codger and still don't like new fangled electronic whizgigs (GET OFF MY LAWN YOU DAMNED KIDS)
 
I have ARB front and rear. My concern about the lines made me perhaps super cautious on line locations. On my JT the rear line is sleaved with a rubber hose from the body directly down to the axle. The line is then running directly to the frame and into it on the drivers side. The line runs inside the frame up to the slot near my compressor... again where it exits the frame (and back into the frame about a foot) the line is all tucked inside a rubber hose... The front line runs from the compressor into the frame and drops straight down to the pumpkin from inside the front cross member- any expossed hose is tucked inside a rubber line. I've had no leaks in two years... and I didn't even know about the stainless line, I just installed what I had with the kit and tried to protect it as much as possible. I made sure to plug the line before running it through any of the frame to avoid dirt inside the lines. I was also careful to be sure it was not forced or twisted inside the frame... just gently wiggleing it and moving it down the frame. In the right angle areas... I used that as the starting place for each end of the line... estimated the distance added about 2 feet... and made sure the line was not stressed inside the frame after they were ran to each end... I left the "loop" flexible and slowly pushed the whole whole into the frame. I have no long time experience with the lines or ARB's it was just the my attempt to avoid anything impacting the lines and causeing a leak.
 
I wouldn't consider ARB's a pain in the ass to install. Yes there are some additional small steps you have to take such as clearance the bearing cap a tad and drill/tap the housing but that's really it. There are small details to look for when installing the air housing as that can easily cause most leaks such as making sure you don't roll the square seals when installing them and/or not rolling them when fitting the air housing on the carrier. Some other minor stuff but other than that, just be smart on how you route the air lines and should be good!

The OX is technically "less work" as you don't have to drill/tap the housing.

I'm not sure how or where you would get leaks from a FAD delete as you still have your outer seal in the housing and on the FAD mounting surface.
 
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