Oscar's No Build Thread

sipafz said:
I was nice to get a taste of spring, but sadly we have more snow forecasted for Tuesday/Wednesday.

Your Jeep is as old as mine. About time for some new shoes?
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Getting close. Sometime this summer. I ran a set of rubi wheels/tires for awhile early on.
 
Another nice weekend in South-East Wisconsin. Took the opportunity to strip the Jeep and make a stop at the last covered bridge in the area:

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Did a chalk test, adjusted air pressure and reprogrammed the TMPS thresholds.

Ever since mounting Cooper STT Pro 295/70R17 on my stock 7 1/2” wheels I’ve been running 30psi. The ride was noticeably more rough than my old stock street tires.

The chalk test showed that 30psi was definitely to much pressure. I ended up at 25psi which gave me a much better contact patch and the ride improved a ton. I’m guessing that my narrow wheels creates a bunch of tire crown.

Think I’ll have any issues running the pressure that low? I noticed that the tires warmed up after a few miles of freeway driving and gained 3psi each.

At 25psi:

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Looks like it should be even lower, but 25 seems/sounds pretty low already. The ride feels good and stabile at low speeds around town and 75 on the freeway. I’m thinking I should be ok unless you all see/know something I don’t.
 
sipafz said:
Did a chalk test, adjusted air pressure and reprogrammed the TMPS thresholds.

Ever since mounting Cooper STT Pro 295/70R17 on my stock 7 1/2” wheels I’ve been running 30psi. The ride was noticeably more rough than my old stock street tires.

The chalk test showed that 30psi was definitely to much pressure. I ended up at 25psi which gave me a much better contact patch and the ride improved a ton. I’m guessing that my narrow wheels creates a bunch of tire crown.

Think I’ll have any issues running the pressure that low? I noticed that the tires warmed up after a few miles of freeway driving and gained 3psi each.

At 25psi:

View attachment 342794

Looks like it should be even lower, but 25 seems/sounds pretty low already. The ride feels good and stabile at low speeds around town and 75 on the freeway. I’m thinking I should be ok unless you all see/know something I don’t.
Click to expand...

Looks good to me.

I would not worry about the PSI, as long as the contact is correct and the sidewalls are not squished too much.

I ran 22 PSI for about a hundred and fifty thousand miles in my Toyota with no problems. It was lighter, and that's what chalk said. I got over 50,000 miles on each set of tires
 
sipafz said:
Did a chalk test, adjusted air pressure and reprogrammed the TMPS thresholds.

Ever since mounting Cooper STT Pro 295/70R17 on my stock 7 1/2” wheels I’ve been running 30psi. The ride was noticeably more rough than my old stock street tires.

The chalk test showed that 30psi was definitely to much pressure. I ended up at 25psi which gave me a much better contact patch and the ride improved a ton. I’m guessing that my narrow wheels creates a bunch of tire crown.

Think I’ll have any issues running the pressure that low? I noticed that the tires warmed up after a few miles of freeway driving and gained 3psi each.

At 25psi:

View attachment 342794

Looks like it should be even lower, but 25 seems/sounds pretty low already. The ride feels good and stabile at low speeds around town and 75 on the freeway. I’m thinking I should be ok unless you all see/know something I don’t.
Click to expand...

I had that same size on my WJ (weighs 5500ish lbs) and 28-29 psi was perfect. I would say keep it where you have it and watch it every week or so. If you notice more wear on the edges (not the very outer edge) bump the psi up a little. And rotate them every oil change and they'll last for a long time. The very very outer edge of mud terrain tire lugs don't seem to have much contact, so I wouldn't worry too much about that.
 
wjtstudios said:
Looks nice and even to me. [emoji106]


2015 JKUR AEV JK350
1985 CJ8 Scrambler
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jdofmemi said:
Looks good to me.

I would not worry about the PSI, as long as the contact is correct and the sidewalls are not squished too much.

I ran 22 PSI for about a hundred and fifty thousand miles in my Toyota with no problems. It was lighter, and that's what chalk said. I got over 50,000 miles on each set of tires
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WJCO said:
I had that same size on my WJ (weighs 5500ish lbs) and 28-29 psi was perfect. I would say keep it where you have it and watch it every week or so. If you notice more wear on the edges (not the very outer edge) bump the psi up a little. And rotate them every oil change and they'll last for a long time. The very very outer edge of mud terrain tire lugs don't seem to have much contact, so I wouldn't worry too much about that.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the feedback fellas!
 
Air Conditioning Compressor Teardown and Failure Analysis:

Last spring, on a warm day, my wife asked to roll up the windows and turn on the air. We quickly figured out that it was not working, blowing only warm and as we pulled up to a stop light the engine stalled. I quickly turned the system off and restarted the engine to keep moving. Once we returned home I confirmed that the compressor was lockup and unplugged it.

I personally never use the air conditioning so it hasn’t been a priority to fix. That being said, I would like to fix it and hopefully doing the work myself.

During my last oil change, I noticed a buildup of grime on the bottom of the compressor.

I decided to pull it out today and take a look. It’s a fairly simple process to remove the unit. I suspected that the system was not under pressure and sure enough barely anything came out of the low or high pressure lines. Being that my system uses the new r1234yf refrigerant I wasn’t to concerned about releasing anything.

Once the unit was out I cleaned off the grime and drained out the PAG Oil:

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I was surprised at how little oil came out maybe 1/2oz or so. Normally about 3oz should come out while rotating the compressor pulley. Since my unit is locked tight I couldn’t do it properly.

Next I attempted to remove the clutch plate and broke the bolt in record time. I suggest heating it since it looks like it has loctite on it:

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A couple circlips later and the clutch was removed. 7 more bolts and some careful prying and persuasion get you mostly disassembled:

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Found the problem - seized piston:

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A lot of debris:

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Well, not what I was hoping for. A slipped half ball is an easy fix, but this unit is destroyed. Threw it back together and reinstalled for now. I guess I will get a new compressor and necessary tools with my stimulus check.

I’m not sure if the oil & freon leaked out and that caused it to seize or did the seizing cause the leakage? Stumped.
 
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sipafz said:
Air Conditioning Compressor Teardown and Failure Analysis:

Last spring, on a warm day, my wife asked to roll up the windows and turn on the air. We quickly figured out that it was not working, blowing only warm and as we pulled up to a stop light the engine stalled. I quickly turned the system off and restarted the engine to keep moving. Once we returned home I confirmed that the compressor was lockup and unplugged it.

I personally never use the air conditioning so it hasn’t been a priority to fix. That being said, I would like to fix it and hopefully doing the work myself.

During my last oil change, I noticed a buildup of grim on the bottom of the compressor.

I decided to pull it out today and take a look. It’s a fairly simple process to remove the unit. I suspected that the system was not under pressure and sure enough barely anything came out of the low or high pressure lines. Being that my system uses the new r1234yf refrigerant I wasn’t to concerned about releasing anything.

Once the unit was out I cleaned off the grim and drained out the PAG Oil:

View attachment 344258

View attachment 344259

I was surprised at how little oil came out maybe 1/2oz or so. Normally about 3oz should come out while rotating the compressor pulley. Since my unit is locked tight I couldn’t do it properly.

Next I attempted to remove the clutch plate and broke the bolt in record time. I suggest heating it since it looks like it has loctite on it:

View attachment 344262

A couple circlips later and the clutch was removed. 7 more bolts and some careful prying and persuasion get you mostly disassembled:

View attachment 344263

Found the problem - seized piston:

View attachment 344265

A lot of debris:

View attachment 344266

View attachment 344267

Well, not what I was hoping for. A slipped half ball is an easy fix, but this unit is destroyed. Threw it back together and reinstalled for now. I guess I will get a new compressor and necessary tools with my stimulus check.

I’m not sure if the oil & freon leaked out and that caused it to seize or did the seizing cause the leakage? Stumped.
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If you don’t regularly use it and turned it on once it was likely just the seal’s time to go. If a seal develops a leak, the gas and oil leak will both leak out and that would have caused it to seize up. I deal with this every spring at work when our buses don’t use A/C over the winter then suddenly need them come this time of year. If oil leaked out, so has the freon.


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JordanHaskin said:
If you don’t regularly use it and turned it on once it was likely just the seal’s time to go. If a seal develops a leak, the gas and oil leak will both leak out and that would have caused it to seize up. I deal with this every spring at work when our buses don’t use A/C over the winter then suddenly need them come this time of year. If oil leaked out, so has the freon.


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE
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Hey, thanks for the response! While I don’t use the air conditioning much I do use the defroster all the time so I’m surprised that it’s dead after a little over 3 years. What you’re saying makes sense. Still sucks though!
 
sipafz said:
Hey, thanks for the response! While I don’t use the air conditioning much I do use the defroster all the time so I’m surprised that it’s dead after a little over 3 years. What you’re saying makes sense. Still sucks though!
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Seals just don’t care. They can be real assholes sometimes lol. For the little amount of oil in automotive systems it doesn’t take long to leak out once it starts. Even if it’s a slow leak it could be working one day then not the next and with temperature changes this time of year a seal could expand/contract and leak the last of the oil out. Unfortunately with the 1234y it’s very expensive compared to R-134A


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE
 
JordanHaskin said:
Unfortunately with the 1234y it’s very expensive compared to R-134A
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Tell me about it! R-134A would cost me less than $20. Best price I’ve found is $110 for (3) 8oz cans. Seems that Honeywell has a monopoly on the market.
 
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Spent the day at Embarrass River ATV Park, which is Wisconsins only off-road park and recently open to some road legal vehicles (no full size trucks or tires larger than 37”) thanks to a local 4x4 club. Had a great time exploring the 500 acres; found a little mud and some rocks to play on. It’s a perfect place for my mildly built Jeep to have a little fun.

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