Offset / backspacing for 38s

D

ducatijosh

Member
Hello. I have a Clayton 2.5” overland plus lift on my gladiator and I’m looking to add some 38x12.50r17 Nitto Ridge Grapplers tomorrow. I test fit one today and at full lock I’m about an inch from the lower control arm. The only other tight spot appears to be that dang passenger side safety bracket that they added on the 2022s. Watching a video for removing it it seems the actual part that’s getting close to my tire is welded to the frame. (Attached video)
So should I cut it off or go for more negative offset? These are the fuel 17x9 1mm offset wheels. I really wanted the wheels as far under the Jeep as possible to reduce scrub radius. The next step is -12 which seems like they’d stick our way too far for my ball joints and scrub radius to be happy.

Thoughts? Hack it off?

I’ll likely do a fender chop kit real soon for flexing off-road. Want to stay low to get in garages.
 

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Just pull that bracket off. If you’re having any rubbing on the control arms, adjust the steering stops a couple turns.
You’ll never notice the difference.
 

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ducatijosh said:
Hello. I have a Clayton 2.5” overland plus lift on my gladiator and I’m looking to add some 38x12.50r17 Nitto Ridge Grapplers tomorrow. I test fit one today and at full lock I’m about an inch from the lower control arm. The only other tight spot appears to be that dang passenger side safety bracket that they added on the 2022s. Watching a video for removing it it seems the actual part that’s getting close to my tire is welded to the frame. (Attached video)
So should I cut it off or go for more negative offset? These are the fuel 17x9 1mm offset wheels. I really wanted the wheels as far under the Jeep as possible to reduce scrub radius. The next step is -12 which seems like they’d stick our way too far for my ball joints and scrub radius to be happy.

Thoughts? Hack it off?

I’ll likely do a fender chop kit real soon for flexing off-road. Want to stay low to get in garages.
Click to expand...
Sticking with 37s seems easier. So much hassle for just one inch! Everything seems really close with this small lift. If it is that close while on level ground, imagine what will happen while off-roading! You are going to be removing and cutting stuff for a while.
 
onlyone said:
Just pull that bracket off. If you’re having any rubbing on the control arms, adjust the steering stops a couple turns.
You’ll never notice the difference.
Click to expand...

so you can unbolt the bracket but my problem is the plate behind it which is welded to the frame. As seen here.
 

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bobfriesenhahn said:
Sticking with 37s seems easier. So much hassle for just one inch! Everything seems really close with this small lift. If it is that close while on level ground, imagine what will happen while off-roading! You are going to be removing and cutting stuff for a while.
Click to expand...
The problem isn’t the lift height. I’ll swap springs or chop fenders in a heartbeat. Mainly concerned about making this offset work.
 
onlyone said:
Grind that weld off the bracket, paint the frame and adjust your steering stops. I ran stock wheels with no spacers with 37s on my other 2 Rubicon JLs. Works just fine.
Click to expand...
Thanks. Will do. Don’t want to add 13mm more poke going from a +1 to a -12. Obviously if my tires were 13.5” wide I would have to.
 
ducatijosh said:
The problem isn’t the lift height. I’ll swap springs or chop fenders in a heartbeat. Mainly concerned about making this offset work.
Click to expand...
There is no telling what will happen when all twisted up off-road, but by enlarging the steering radius a bit, you should be able to drive on the street just fine.

Or just change to wider axels. 😄
 
ducatijosh said:
Here they are. 38s on a 2.5” Clayton lift. 17x9 1mm offset.
Click to expand...
Looks great! I would have run factory wheels and 37s on mine if I had the wider Rubicon axles. That’s the only reason I bought aftermarket wheels. Well, they were shiny bling too, so there’s that. You might get some fender rubbing flexed out but nothing that will be too bad. You can always split your fenders if need be.
 
I just put Nitto Ridge Grappler 38x12.5r17 on my Gladiator and it looks SWEET!! I have a 2" AEV spacer lift and no rubbing I've seen. The tires are so smooth on the road!
 
If keeping your tires tucked is the primary goal, a little rub of the control arm never hit anything and as mentioned, you can always adjust out your steer stops. As far as the bracket goes, just hack it off 👍🏻
 
Another update. Running great with plenty of room. After a front end alignment I got around 1” of clearance to the front lower control arms lock to lock. No issues anywhere with the 17x9 +1 offset. Will be chopping fenders soon for more off-road flex.

Went with 5.13 revolution gears, rcv front axle shafts and 4340 rear axle shafts as well as arb diff covers
 

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I'm wondering if I really need to re-gear my Gladiator??? I have 4.10's (stock) and 38 Nitto Ridge Grapplers......I get into 8th gear no problem on the freeway usually around 67+ mph on flat ground and rpms are (from my memory) are like in the 2,000- 2,500 rpm range. I'd have to check for sure. I mostly drive around town, I drive pretty "chill', I do off-road 2x- a month but nothing crazy.
 
Acceleration and (likely) fuel efficiency will improve with a gear change.

It does not take much to hold top gear on flat ground. If you drive out of flat Texas to a place with actual mountains (e.g. to a western state) then you would notice more difference with the gear changes.
 
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